The biggest trends from Indian Couture Week that you should have on your radar

Besides breathtaking designs, elaborate sets, and stunning showstoppers, a lot has come out of India Couture Week. Since this star-studded week has ended, we take a closer look at some of the trends designers meticulously and strategically incorporated into their collections. 

Metallics

Designers like Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, Rimzim Dadu, and Rajesh Pratap were heavily influenced by celestial bodies. Dadu’s collection, ‘Hydrochromic’, was a spectacular play of metallic tones and edgy silhouettes—think abstract patterns and reimagined traditional weaves. On the other hand, Gandhi and Khanna took the metallic theme in a different direction with their collection, ‘Equinox’. The collection drew inspiration from the ever-evolving patterns of cosmic events through unlined fabrics and 3D embroidery techniques. The creators’ different take on this trend is yet another testimony that fashion is in the eye of the beholder. Standout pieces from this trend were also created by designers Rahul Mishra, Dolly J, and Anamika Khanna.

Fishtail with a slit 

This season, slits got higher as designers such as Falguni Shane Peacock, Varun Bahl, and Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna dressed their showstoppers in stunning fishtail skirts with thigh-high slits. We first saw it on Falguni Shane Peacock's showstopper, Kiara Advani, who walked the ramp in a pink set, while Bhumi Pednekar, Ananya Panday, Disha Patni, and Sobhita Dhulipala followed suit.

 

Aged Zari Work

Zardozi embroidery style has been around in India for centuries, and this India Couture Week, multiple designers paid homage to this rich history. Tarun Tahiliani and JJ Valaya took us back in time with their pieces; their elegant, intricate zari work stood out. Ritu Kumar’s lehenga, donned by Aditi Rao Hydari, featured embellished geometric and floral designs and was paired with a Gazal jacket boasting classic Kashmiri design with hints of gold zardozi work. Through its contemporary interpretations inspired by Gujarat's rich past, JJ Valaya's collection is claimed to showcase the true soul of India, while Tarun Tahiliani continuously explores a fresh perspective through his clothing, echoing the spirit of the Indian modern woman and the new man. Suneet Varma's Mogra collection and Anamika Khanna's Zardozi-inspired looks were similar standouts. 
 

3D Embroidery  

Rahul Mishra is known for his individualised designs and embroidery, and Varun Bahl and Anamika Khanna had a similar idea. This three-dimensional work elevates the entire ensemble with a non-conformist flair, giving life to the apparel. From Mishra’s embellished lehenga to Anamika’s cinched Sherwani, the 3D embroidery collections were a standout at the show. 

Capes

Not all superheroes wear capes, but these showstoppers sure do. Janhvi Kapoor served genie mystic looks in a Gaurav Gupta lehenga, paired with a cape styled to flow like water around her. Falguni and Shane Peacock’s collection was just out of a fairytale—it featured fitted corseted lilac dress with a floral embellished cape. Sara Ali Khan, who walked the ramp for Shantanu and Nikhil looked resplendent in a pearl-clad cloak. With their elaborate collections, Isha J and Dolly J also had models strut in jaw-dropping capes.