How kinetic jewellery blends craftsmanship with timeless luxury

There’s a ring that occupies pride of place in my jewellery box. It’s seemingly regular, never drawing a curious rummager’s eye but those in the know will certainly pick it up for closer inspection, and the discerning examiner would be able to see why it is special. My mother gave this ring to me as I started my first job and it was often the object I repeatedly touched—during the interview, before a big presentation—my fingers grazing the golden edges, almost like I was drawing strength from them. It calmed my nerves, the ring’s presence soothing me in moments when I wasn’t quite sure of myself. It is perhaps why I truly understand the beauty, nay, the necessity of kinetic jewellery. Kinetic jewellery has moving parts that allow the piece to transcend its utility as adornment, making it a conversation starter and even a tool for temporary solace.

It’s not how kinetic jewellery started out though. Well, certainly not as a luxurious fidget spinner. Friedrich Becker, the inventor of kinetic jewellery, was a goldsmith, a jeweller, and an aeronautical engineer. It is this diverse skill set that led him to create pieces that transcended utility and became art. Often described as an artistic genius, Becker’s first kinetic ring was a confluence of artistic imagination, bringing together diverse forms, creating optical illusions, and providing a precursor to the brilliance of the bespectacled German. In the late '90s, Becker’s work with kinetic jewellery got him an honorary doctorate from the Royal College Of Art, London. This was a historic moment, for this accolade was the first bestowed on a jeweller in the institution’s 160-year-old history. A fitting testimony to Becker’s legacy and his iconic creations is that some of the most noteworthy luxury brands in the world have kinetic pieces in their collections. 

Clash de Cartier, a collection that has gone on to become the maison’s signature, is an example. This bijouterie is a stunning confluence of contrasts. Embracing dualities in texture and temperature, smooth black onyx beads make the inside of gold rings, bracelets, and pendants in this collection. The picot studs, a Cartier leitmotif, allow for movement—gentle and easy—creating artistry in motion. The elevated contrast between the gold and the moving beads is further highlighted when the piece comes in touch with the skin. Cartier’s indomitable craftsmanship takes centre stage here, putting the sharp contrasts in focus. The moving parts add a touch of whimsy. Hardly the kind to confine to norms, Cartier patrons will appreciate the undertone of subtle rebelliousness. This nuance is best embodied by the ambassador of the Clash de Cartier collection, Emily in Paris star Lily Collins. 

Closer home, luxury Indian jewellery house Mahesh Notandass’ carefully constructed kinetic pieces fit just as easily in a boutique as in an art gallery. The brand’s Peacock Ring embellished with polki, diamonds, and precious stones, however, can stake its claim as the piece de resistance of their vast repertoire. The golden wings on either side of the peacock flutter, moving up and down, allowing for flights of fancy—it must be what they meant all along. The glittering jewels flanking the body of the peacock, making up the train (the peacock’s raised feathers are called a train) catch light in stunning ways with this movement, creating a kaleidoscope that inspires awe. The delicate pastel hues are perfect for this festive season. If power pieces are your style, this piece makes a statement that is bold, underlined, and italics. 

For those who like their jewellery more minimalist, but enjoy the brilliance of the mechanics involved in kinetic pieces, make a beeline for the Bvlgari Bvlgari ring. The elegant rose gold ring draws inspiration from the House’s enduring Roman legacy—an interplay of culture and modernity. The double logo makes its presence felt here, an homage to the inscriptions of ancient coins. Multicoloured hard gemstones, namely mother of pearl and onyx, are encased within. A playful twirl sets the ring in motion, leaving the wearer and the inquisitive onlooker entranced. 

When homegrown luxury brand Anmol Jewellers introduced their kinetic jewellery collection, it was a clutter-breaking move in a saturated Indian market. Titled Tick Tock, each piece in this collection had several moving parts, each unique and stunning. The pendant is crafted with 18-carat gold. To create an alluring contrast, the elephants are made out of 18-carat rose gold. These sit pretty on a white gold plate. The pendant comes to life when the chain moves, each of the elephants involved in a pretty dance, engaging the wearer and making the entire experience interactive. 

Jewellery, whether passed down generations or bought to celebrate a momentous occasion, is always special. Kinetic jewellery adds a tinge of fun to it. Perhaps jewellery was always meant to be more, given that the term jewellery may have its origins in the Latin word ‘jocale’ that translates to plaything. 

Lead image credit: Rings from Clash de Cartier collection, Cartier

This article first appeared in Harper's Bazaar India October-November 2024, print edition. 

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