Christian Louboutin's Diwali edit is a festive ode to India with its latest

At first glance, Louboutin’s Diwali Edit looks like a frenzied collage from an Indian escapade. Gold zari-esque details and delicate embellishments are layered over hues of fuschia, scarlet, saffron, and canary. Rich textiles sourced from the land that Christian Louboutin shares a 45-year-old relationship with find themselves blending with rhinestones and fishnets, to create a set of footwear that is playful, bold, and unapologetically personal to the designer’s experience of this country. “I don’t claim to know or understand India entirely, that would be quite stupid of me. I am just endlessly inspired by India,” he tells me during his trip to Mumbai, “and how such varied crafts come together here to tell a multifaceted story of celebration.” Right off the bat, Christian comes off as someone acutely aware of how difficult it is to bottle this subcontinent into a capsule collection. “I haven’t tried to do that either. I can create a million collections inspired by India, and this won’t be my last. From chikan to jamdani, the treasures are endless here. For the Diwali Edit, I journeyed through my travels and picked out all that would help offer a piece of this country to the world during the festival of lights. This one edit about India is a drop in an ocean of possibilities.”

Christian has seen Indian designers’ and consumers’ tastes evolve over the years, from being outward-looking to rediscovering luxury within their own savoir-faire. “The modern Indian was once known to gravitate towards minimalist styles and Western culture, in the name of fashion. That has truly changed. Indian designers have relooked at and embraced their heritage and created a vision full of multiple influences. That is extremely interesting, especially for an audience that is not from here.” This is not the first time that Louboutin’s admiration for India has manifested in a collection. A quick look at the Maison’s archive unearths the Jhansi from S/S 1995, the Shiva from S/S 2003, the Bengali from F/W 2012, and the original Lady Bombay that debuted in S/S 2012—all were on display at the Salon L’Inde presentation at the Christian Louboutin boutique in Mumbai from October 15 to November 6.

The new Lady Bombay Diwali 85, along with its flat version, and the Kate Diwali 85, a reimagination of the classic Louboutin Kate, lead the Diwali Edit. The Diwalina flat and the Diwalina 55 in nappa laminata, complete with golden spikes, are perfect for a hearty night out. The Pyraclou Diwali, in 110 and 60, is for the wedge lovers. The men’s styles are striking too, with Night on the Ganges Diwali capturing the magical celebrations along the holy river, and the Marcantonia Diwali is a vibrant alternative to plain black velvet loafers.

However, this collection did not begin with a clear goal to become what it has. “When I start drawing, I rarely have an outcome in mind. I just draw and let the process take me where it does,” says Christian. “But when penetrating a culture that is not yours, you must be mindful of what you can take creative liberty with. I have so much respect for your traditions. Especially when I am taking these influences and making them into shoes, something you slip your feet into, I have to be mindful.” The nuances of the feet within Indian culture are not lost on the designer. “I am not making something you put around your arm or neck. I know that using religious symbols on footwear can be disrespectful. That is probably the only constraint I have worked with.”

Christian’s excitement for India and its ever-booming fashion scene is contagious. And his knowledge of the kaleidoscopic Indian identity is far from the monolithic version that finds widespread representation worldwide. “Nobody is truly global. Even the Americans and Europeans are all so locally rooted in what we offer. As designers, if we want the world to appreciate and buy our creations, we must widen our horizons and expose ourselves to cultures that influence us to grow out of our bubble.” Louboutin has come far from its first home at Galerie Vérot-Dodat in Paris. The red-soled shoes might have made the brand iconic, but Christian’s constant desire to push himself creatively, without the need for perfection, has kept it relevant.

All images: The brand 

This article first appeared in Harper's Bazaar India October-November 2024, print edition. 

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