Falguni Shane Peacock’s collaboration with Swadesh is an opulent story of Indian craft at #ICW2024

In the ever-evolving landscape of Indian fashion, as designers claim their space on international grounds and reclaim the country’s foregone and forgotten crafts, Falguni Shane Peacock’s announcement of their partnership with Swadesh—this, in case we forgot, from the brand that’s been in the news for Sarah Jessica Parker's maroon and blue resham-work lehenga featured in Season 1 of And Just Like That, their New York Fashion Week successes; their support to dress stars like Beyoncé, Priyanka Chopra, Malala Yousafzai, Mindy Kaling, and innumerable Bollywood stars; and their rather theatrical street style rendition of a recent collection—was intriguing, yet understandable. 

Coming from a designer duo who have, since their first collection in that oppressive July in 2004, worked to blend Indian sensibilities with Western understanding, this partnership feels like a natural step in their design repertoire. And with a spotlight on Indian textiles like Kanjeevaram, Banarasi, chikankari, Patola, and even a lesser-known Bawan Buti, while drawing inspiration from fifty-two symbols that celebrate India’s royal heritage, it promises to be a showcase like nothing seen from them before.

Bazaar India caught up with the designers backstage, as they geared to close the final day of the India Couture Week, and took a peek into the process. 

Harper’s Bazaar: You mention that ‘Rang Mahal’ is a collection that transcends time and artistic language. How has this one been different from all other FSP collections?

Falguni Shane Peacock: Our ‘Rang Mahal’ collection stands apart from our previous collections as it draws inspiration directly from the grandeur of Indian heritage, culture, and royal palaces. This collection marks our inaugural collaboration with Swadesh—an initiative by Mrs Nita Ambani and the Reliance Foundation, dedicated to supporting Indian textiles, skilled artisans, and weavers. It is also the first time we have incorporated traditional textiles such as Kanjeevaram silks, Banarasi brocades, and chikankari into our designs.  

HB: ⁠Can you tell us about the choice of crafts and how it was to dip your creative toes into these age-old textiles?

FSP: Collaborating with Swadesh to incorporate the crafts of Kanjeevaram, Banarasi, and chikankari into our design aesthetics has been an incredibly enriching experience. We specifically chose these crafts for their profound historical significance and exceptional artistry.

This choice has allowed us to explore and appreciate the meticulous craftsmanship and intricate detailing that have been perfected over generations. Kanjeevaram silks, with their vibrant colours and rich textures, bring a sense of regal opulence. Banarasi brocades, known for their intricate motifs and luxurious feel, add an element of elegance. Chikankari, with its delicate embroidery, offers a touch of finesse. Integrating these crafts into our designs has not only enhanced our creative process but also enabled us to honour and preserve these traditional art forms.

HB: ⁠Can we expect this luxurious visual and design language and craft play to translate to your ready-to-wear too?

FSP: Absolutely. We aspire to infuse our ready-to-wear and prêt collections with the same luxurious visual and design language that defines our couture line. Currently, our focus is on creating exquisite couture pieces. However, we are working to extend this aesthetic to our prêtwear range in the near future. By doing so, we would aim to provide our clients with accessible yet sophisticated pieces that retain the essence of our brand's heritage and craftsmanship.

HB: ⁠You talk of incorporating a lot of symbolism in this collection. Can you let us in on the story you are trying to tell of the lives in the royal palaces?

FSP: Our collection narrates the opulent and culturally-rich life of India's royal palaces through symbolism and intricate craftsmanship. Each outfit embodies elements like resplendent peacocks and parrots, serene swans, horses, elephants, and majestic tigers, symbolising beauty, purity, strength, and courage. Mystical palaces, traditional diyas, melodious sitars, and sacred banyan trees add layers of cultural richness. Love and passion are depicted through fragrant roses and floral motifs, while divine echoes come from spiritual conches. The impeccable craftsmanship is also showcased with paisleys and motifs of the Taj Mahal. This collection celebrates the grandeur of royal heritage and the artisans who bring these stories to life.

HB: ⁠What can we expect further from this collaboration with Swadesh?

FSP: After this collaboration with Swadesh, we wish to explore many more meaningful avenues to discover India’s rich textile heritage through our future collections. As a brand, we are committed to crafting pieces that showcase the intricate craftsmanship of traditional Indian textiles while aligning them with our contemporary design vision. There are many more things in the pipeline!

All image credits: Falguni Shane Peacock exclusively for Harper's Bazaar India

Also read: All the highlights from India Couture Week 2024
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