Uncovering hidden stories behind the world’s most iconic watch brands

In a world of virality, it’s as tough as it is simple to be certified iconic. While some gain instant success, others take years to build a personality for the label, crafting stories, narratives, and interests that bleed into their brand seamlessly. If there is one sector where instant success is almost a myth, it’s watches. Each brand has a story that it has held onto since the very beginning, building its legitimacy across the board to make it exemplary in its own right. If you think out loud, you will be able to pinpoint what each brand stands for with ease—Panerai is the ruler of the nautical world, Omega is best known to ‘time’ the most key events of the world, Rado is an innovator of materials. But we wonder if this was the theory from the very beginning? Were these brands always so clear in the pillars that define them?

This story goes back in time to their humble beginnings—a tale as old as their age (each is a minimum of 100 years and more). The building blocks of watch brands are laid on a much deeper level. This has been the case in the world of horology for as long as one can remember. The theory also applies to newer watch brands like Richard Mille that has been known to specialise in a cult-style rugged yet, sporty watches, and only pushed the bar every year since its birth in 2001. 

“I love the foundations upon which Rolex has been built, how it has grown, and is managed,” says Hannah Mills, the most successful female Olympic sailor of all times and winner of the Rolex World Sailor of the Year award in 2016 and 2021. “It is inspirational. To be recognised as an athlete, an advocate for women and sustainability, and as someone that a brand as iconic as Rolex would like to be part of its family, is a huge honour.” But this is not an emotion that she shares alone, it is unanimous across the world. For Rolex, the vision to represent excellence has existed since Day zero. Founder Hans Wilsdorf famously said, “Rolex must continuously strive to think and act differently from the rest. Therein lies my greatest strength.” Indeed it is. Rolex has made its place in the list of the most covetable brands in the current scape of horology wherein collectors, enthusiasts and even first-time buyers are ready to pay any price to get their hands on a creation by the label. The subliminal message of being able to own even a smidgen of that excellence is enough to make them bite. 

When it comes to watch brands, each one stands tall in its own right for an ethos set within them, a discovery that sealed their hold over the subject. The unequivocal understanding of a subject is so deep that the consumer discovers it through their eyes. Think Omega and the Olympics, the first time they became the official timekeepers for the greatest sporting event of the globe was in 1932, and ever since the brand has gone on to time the most iconic moments in history, including the first landing on moon. The partnership of Omega and the Olympics has stood the test of time—the brand was the official timekeeper for the Paris Olympics 2024.

Brands like Panerai, Rado, Chopard, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, among others, set their sights on what was important to them from the get go, choosing every aspect to align with their respective subjects. Perception plays a very strong role in how a watch brand is presented. Think about the simple things—the showroom, the packaging, the associations, the sales associates, even the decor. They all come together to build a brand. More often than not, when a brand reaches iconic status, anyone can easily distinguish its salient features. All in all, while it might be a lesson for many on how to make a brand tick, being iconic is more than just creating a product that stands out, it’s everything else too.

This article first appeared in Harper's Bazaar India, September 2024, print edition. 

All images: The brands 

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