This brand we grew up with got a major makeover, and other labels should take note

For the longest time, Lacoste was synonymous with polos that featured little crocodile logos—the weekend uniform for off-duty dads everywhere. Well, the label has left the “dorky” aesthetic behind and entered a new era of reinvention. Under the creative direction of Pelagia Kolotouros, who has previously worked for brands like Adidas and Calvin Klein, Lacoste has transformed and evolved into something refreshingly modern and almost unrecognisable. While still retaining its repertoire of cosy, comfortable, and functional clothing in a kaleidoscope of colours, Lacoste has now shifted its focus to sleek, statement pieces that leave a lasting impact. 

Of course, the label's foundation remains the same—a sporty chic identity with comfort and functionality at the forefront. However, Kolotouros’ vision gives it a more ‘sporty, chic meets French sophistication’ aesthetic, and it’s a great look for the label. 

Where It All Began

Lacoste was founded back in 1933 by the French tennis player René Lacoste. A seven-time Grand Slam champion, Lacoste was famously called “The Crocodile” for his relentless wins including those at the French Open, Wimbledon, and the US Open. It’s no surprise, then, that he chose the crocodile as his signature motif. He co-founded Lacoste with André Gillier and designed the first-ever polo shirt by Lacoste, cementing its position as a label that combined athleticism with fashion. With this, he introduced the world to a new style of casual elegance, crafting outfits that were functional and stylish.

A Modern Makeover

Since Kolotouros took over as creative design director in February 2023, Lacoste has undergone a remarkable transformation—one that we have witnessed through their Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer collections. While the label saw a bold departure from its traditionally preppy aesthetic, Kolotouros continued to feature the label’s sporty roots, combining them with modern, street-chic influences that reflected a “very French ambience”. Her vision struck a perfect balance between heritage and innovation. 

Heritage Meets Innovation

The new collections saw Kolotouros utilise Lacoste's signature elements, reimagining them in a more contemporary form. For instance, the signature green shade is splashed across sporty jackets and tennis skirts, while the iconic crocodile logo now features prominently in larger prints on cardigans, V-necks, tracksuits, and varsity jackets. 

Moreover, in her Fall/Winter 2024 collection showcase at Paris Fashion Week earlier this year, Kolotouros paid tribute to the late René Lacoste, who became the first Frenchman to win the Davis Cup in the United States. Titled ‘Victory of 1927’, the collection integrated elements of Lacoste’s legacy, combining athletic wear with high fashion. It featured a colour palette inspired by René's iconic all-white outfit during the victory ceremony, and emphasised functional sensibilities and freedom of movement in the garments. The incorporation of classic elements like the collared tennis shirt, now transformed into a garment more fluid and revealing, signifies a continuation of René's innovative spirit while resonating with today's fashion sensibilities. ​

The recent S/S ’25 collection also drew inspiration from René Lacoste’s off-court life in 1920s France, blending sport and leisure with a sensual fluidity. Playful yellows and greens captured the essence of summer getaways, while updated takes on the iconic polo shirt were a nod to the label’s timelessness. 

A Necessary Transformation?

Overall, Lacoste’s evolution reflects its transition into adulthood, moving beyond its roots in sportswear to embrace a more sophisticated, fashion-forward identity. The balance between classic sporty elements—such as polo shirts and varsity jackets—and modern, polished designs speaks to a broader, more diverse audience. It appeals to both heritage enthusiasts and younger, fashion-forward audiences seeking elevated streetwear that marries comfort and elegance. By reiterating archival designs with a contemporary twist, Lacoste has successfully reinvented and reinforced its position as a chic, sophisticated label that still honours its athletic past.

Lead image credit: Yanshan Zhang/Getty Images 

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