The hottest moments from the Paris Fashion Week 2024
Bringing you the best of Autumn/Winter fashion!
With Copenhagen, New York, London, and Milan in the rear view, Paris Fashion Week marks the culmination of fashion month. The glittering nine-day finale promises collections from some of the industry’s biggest names. Louis Vuitton is set to close the week, and fashion giants like Dior, Schiaparelli, Loewe, Hermes, Chanel, Giambatista Valli, and Miu Miu will be putting on shows as well. It’s safe to say that it’s going to be one hell of a week for fashion and here’s our roundup of the shows standing out this season.
Day 1
Dior
Dior began proceedings with a collection that paid homage to the house’s first-ever ready-to-wear collection, Miss Dior from 1967. Backdropped by the sculptures of Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni, Maria Grazia Chiuri looked back to the 60s for her latest collection, an era where fashion left the atelier to conquer the real world. The advent of ready-to-wear allowed shoppers to purchase clothing from store racks, rather than haute couture salons. In the A/W 2024 collection, Chiuri used this as a starting point to explore the era‘s liberated dressing—easy but elegant everyday silhouettes. Some notable looks included abbreviated skirts, nipped tailoring, and tabard-style tops, while characteristics of the Dior atelier emerged in the collection’s closing looks with surface embellishments, metallic tassels, and hints of crystal webbing. An overall mood of feminine liberation permeated the sublime collection.
Saint Laurent
At Saint Laurent, a sensually charged mood saw Anthony Vaccarello present an almost entirely sheer collection, vastly inspired in part by Marilyn Monroe’s ‘naked dress’—one she wore for her final public appearance in 1962, and which Kim Kardashian donned at the 2022 Met Gala. The showcase took place in two circular rooms, curtained around their exteriors in emerald green; the mood was one of intimacy. It provided an apt setting for a seductive, sensually charged show that played with the idea of transparency. The collection reminds us of what once was at the centre of fashion by rendering it practically invisible: clothes. Minimising the distance between garment and skin, the nexus of the A/W 2024 collection was a series of sinuous, gauzy gowns rejecting undergarments and hosiery, wrapped around the body in various silhouettes. There’s a nostalgic glamour to the whole collection, and it leaves us wanting more.
Day 2
Courreges
Nicolas Di Felice's seductive Courreges collection was all about the "search for a thrill". The models strutted down the ramp with a hand down their pants, representing sexual healing and self pleasure. At some point, the set began to heave. In tandem with the heavy breathing on the soundtrack, the center of the white floor dramatically rose and fell. The majorly black and white palette and loose yet smart silhouettes made for a classic autumn winter collection. A testament to symmetry, the label found its footing in the balance between simplicity and sensuality. An air of romantic intrigue often clouds Di Felice’s work, and the exploration of silhouette only adds to the kind of mystique we love to see. The function of shapes was wearibly quiet and versatile.
Dries Van Noten
Colourgasm is the best word to describe Dries Van Noten’s AW 24 collection, which was a surreal flurry of technicolour. The Belgian designer moved us with his stunning looks, akin to living paintings. With colours that are bold, and styling that is genius, the collection is titled ‘The Woman Who Dares to Cut Her Own Fringe’. It plays boldly in the combination of colours, textures, styles, and of course haircuts. Each look is a clever mix. For Noten, there is no recipe or process, only spontaneity, desire, and research. Oversized suits with embroidered collars, zipped sweatshirts, impeccably cut coats and obviously prints were married in this remarkably nonchalant and elegant collection.
Acne Studios
Enormous rubber armchairs crafted by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo served as the backdrop for Acne Studios’ latest womenswear collection. Their unconventional, moulded shapes reflected the collection’s full-throttle mood. The sculpted leather and denim pieces were all about speed and racing; these two fabrics have long been at the heart of Acne Studios and here their near-industrial silhouettes charmed us all. Denim was typically twisted and coated to give it an oily effect, while jeans appeared smeared with rust. Yet there were a few surprisingly soft elements in the collection, too: elongated jersey dresses, t-shirts, and knit hooded dresses that seemed reminiscent of a Swedish winter. Meanwhile, moments of elegance were embodied in (faux) fur coats and ladylike handbags. This collection was about the juxtaposition of femininity and a biker sense of style!
Day 3
Schiaparelli
Since their introduction of ready-to-wear last year, Daniel Rosenberry has done a formidable job bringing Elsa Schiaparelli’s maison to the world of everyday fashion. We saw extraordinary converge with everyday styles through refreshing yet relaxed silhouettes branded with house motifs. Keeping the duality of its customers in mind is what makes this collection a hit—the designs were less sculptural and more stripped down with denim, fringe, and buckle details, all of which were a nod to Rosenberry’s American, particularly Texan, upbringing. The collection ranged from elevated office attire to evening ensembles. Keyhole cutouts stood out on most accessories; their mini yet impactful nature tied the looks together seamlessly.
Givenchy
Owing to the lack of a creative director, the luxury label’s studio-designed collection saw the atelier lean towards the beauty of couture and all things archival. The past and the perennial muse, Audrey Hepburn’s influence reigns on with references like silver mini dresses with scooped necklines and circular hoop skirts, satin jackets sculpted to cinch the waist, and classic little black dresses styled with opera gloves. There was a fresh air of wearability amid the couture-inspired pieces with elements like knitted turtlenecks, flouncy trousers, lapelled trenches, and smart jackets. Though reminiscent of the golden age, the designs seemed just as relevant for today’s fashion it-girls, effectively fusing the past and the present.
Chloe
Creative director Chemena Kamali’s debut Chloe collection revolved around real-world dressing with an air of personal style. The pieces were nonchalant whilst featuring bohemian individualistic elements that are perfect for autumn/winter. Think a frilly white dress paired with a chunky gold necklace or a sheer cascading dresses styled with sturdy knee-high boots, the jeans came baggy and loose, and the shoulder satchels were oversized yet practical. Simply put, it was a wearable, elevated version of street style without the loss of identity or personality.
Day 4
Loewe
At Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe– everywhere you look, there’s so much going on. Fabrics that look like an illusion fused highs, lows, couture, and tailoring. A green labyrinthine art gallery surrounded the luminaries, with walls lined with wooded landscapes of artistic outsider and American painter Albert York. The pieces ranged across special, commercial, and essential. There were numerous juxtapositions of hard, soft, and faded sensations and fabrics, adding to the signature Loewe wow factor. Inverting the notions of class and money, in a show replete with contradictions Anderson turned high to low and vice versa. Radish and asparagus motifs draped themselves across bags and dresses. It was almost as though each look could be a different collection, and that’s exactly what leaves us in awe of Loewe.
Giambattista Valli
With a sublime colour palette of blush, white, and a hint of Valli’s signature shimmer, the Italian designer credits this collection’s inspiration to his friend Lee Radziwill. That quality, or really Radziwill’s taste, was at the heart of his strong fall 2024 collection inspired by her dual personalities of sleek, tailored, and timeless, contrasting with the eclectic, boho, and colourful. The two themes were in harmony in the collection. Though effortless is not always something you think of with Valli, yet this is what comes to mind with this fall collection. Little by little, the boho element peaked out– still respecting classic lines and silhouettes. Playing with excessively short and long lengths throughout, making sure the pieces offered something for everyone.
Victoria Beckham
The designer, who took her bow on crutches, showed an elevated offering of twisted classics. While this was a more elevated collection from the designer with real standouts, particularly in the outerwear and knitwear departments, it did seem to cherry-pick some inspiration from others. Beckham’s collections have long been an enigma– in recent years, she’s covered ballet core, the British countryside, lingerie looks, all things latex, Hollywood-esque dresses, collegiate styles, varied textures, and so on. She does consistently talk about the concept of wardrobe, taking it to literally mean her personal wardrobe this time– which sparked sharp silhouettes and smart accessories. In addition to the more conceptual looks were more classical pieces that will make for ever so slightly fashion-forward staples in every closet.
Day 5
Hermes
It was monochrome mania over at Hermes. The F/W collection demonstrated the signature heritage of the Maison, where leather and fur played the protagonists. Managing to recreate the rainy day outside, drops of water cascaded down the side of the ramp. Creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented a minimalist collection with classic albeit elegant garments that demonstrated the house's everlasting love for leather. Monochromatic sets in burgundy and deep red tones opened the show, these gradually mutated into brown, beige, and pastel yellow colours to culminate in all-over black looks. The collection stands out through the combination of textures and the meticulous construction of the garments, evoking the dream of a subtle winter. Among the accessories on display were the famed Birkin and Kelly bags, a few simple yet finely crafted belts, and long all-terrain boots.
Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen’s F/W 24 season marks Seán McGirr's debut, the Dublin-born designer aims to infuse contemporary influences with the fashion house's storied heritage. The collection leans into a gothic aesthetic heroing glossy black looks, sharp silhouettes, and a brooding tone that is undoubtedly edgy. Known for theatrically brilliant designs, the label is no stranger to macabre high fashion. The interesting use of animal print was unique to McGirr’s vision for the brand, adding a certain playfulness to the collection that hasn’t quite been seen before. Previously Sarah Burton offered up designs that were generally in line with McQueen's own aesthetic, but McGirr’s seemingly adding his spin to the brand, creating a new era for Alexander McQueen.
Day 6
Balenciaga
Demna questions it all with his recent Balenciaga collection– What’s the difference between fashion and style? What is luxury? What is fashion? Why does it even matter? Luxury is about scarcity, and what could be more scarce than real creativity. With screens all around, the show serves as a link between the past and the present, starting with dark silhouettes to honouring Cristobal’s legacy. As it progressed, the ideas evolved into something more experimental, reforming how bodies interact with garments. The models strutted the runway unbothered and chewing gum, and the show closed with a dress made entirely out of black and white underwear. The collection stayed true to Demna’s hardcore, DIY inclinations but with less angst and more wry humour, even playfulness. It was truly a creative expression of his personal style. Big shoulder pads were reserved for the opening gowns inspired by the construction of the founder. Clever accessories stole the show, especially the sturdy motocross glove repurposed as a zippered evening clutch.
Valentino
It was all black everything for Valentino– the monochrome collection was inspired by great artists such as the French master of black, Pierre Soulages. The gilded salons of a grand 18th-century townhouse were the hallowed venue for the fall/winter collections ode to black. This monochromatic collection gleamed and glistened under crystal chandeliers amid myriad textures and materials. Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli approached black as a canvas, a starting point on which to build. On display were silhouettes that could move while looking for lights around, to soak them in and reflect them. A tinge of Valentino’s ‘80s heyday and glamour peaked out at viewers as all-black looks sauntered by– daytime and evening looks merging indistinguishably. The Maison’s signature looks were reimagined with a modern flair– with additions of feathers, sequins, lace, and delicate baubles poetically gracing the garments like stars in a midnight sky.
Mugler
A cinematic experience unfolded as Mugler played a game of shadows at Paris Fashion Week. Casey Cadwallader's fall show turned heads with its innovative designs and inclusive casting. Staged in a school gymnasium, curtains, smoke machines, and lights contributed to an amalgamation of fashion with performance art. The collection emphasized personal power and liberation through clothing; the designs moved beyond the brand’s signature cutouts to introduce new textiles and prints, marking a fresh direction. The meticulous details stood out despite the immersive experience of the surroundings– blurring the lines between a runway show and a high-production movie set. Cadwallader's focus lies on creating pieces that empower wearers, using innovative cuts and fabrics to craft garments that exude confidence and strength. The introduction of prints, in collaboration with painter Ambera Wellman, added a new layer of depth to the collection.
Day 7
Stella McCartney
Monday morning started with Stella McCartney, and her collection served as a voice for Mother Earth. The show started with a manifesto read by Olivia Colman, mouthed by the lips of various eco-activists. Winter 24 reflected the foundations of the label– pieces that mirror Stella’s personal style, mixed with some inspired by her mother, Linda McCartney (read: padded shoulders). The show reached for sustainability, from the fabrics worn by the models to the screens surrounding the runway. Leather-free since 2011, 90% of McCartney’s collection was made from responsible materials. Determined that the planet-wrecking version of fashion should not get a monopoly on glamour, she believes that sustainability should be invisible on the runway. There was no space for any animal skins, feathers, or furs! The bags were updated with applique lip motifs, paying symbolic homage to Stella’s timeless codes– womanhood, sensuality, and activism.
Coperni
Coperni FW 24 was subversively fun. The collection was rife with references to popular movies and conspiracy theories. The use of silver and geometry was rife. Knits came with snap patterns, while items like a suit jacket and a trenchcoat were rendered as bodysuits. Despite the air of sci-fi-related gimmicks, most looks were fairly down to earth, appearing as mere updates to classic garments. In keeping with tradition, they produced a collectors’ edition of their signature Swipe bag. Previous versions have been made from a 55,000-year-old meteorite or solid gold, but this one was developed using a nanomaterial called silica aerogel, which has been used by NASA to capture stardust. There were other curious (and seemingly much more accessible) accessories seen on the runway, including handbags that look like gallon-sized Ziplocs and futuristic star-shaped footwear.
Day 8
Chanel
The Chanel collection was an ode to Deauville– the streets that were Gabrielle Chanel’s runway. The sojourn continued when Karl Lagerfeld used the beach as a backdrop for the Chanel S/S 1990 ad campaign. The set was inspired by the famous wooden footbridge on the seaside of Deauville. The show opened with a short film inspired by the 1966 movie ‘Un Homme Et Une Femme’, starring Penelope Cruz and Brad Pitt– the iconic Chanel handbag makes an appearance here. Virginie Viard made a case for the comeback of larger-than-life hats, paired with interlinked C hatpins, duh! The collection was sensible, tweed ankle-length coats rustled over cosy suede boots, while high-necked sweaters were layered under peacoats, and wool caps pulled down against the wind. Then there were the real stars of this show: no fewer than 73 chain-strap quilted Chanel handbags. And of course, Gigi Hadid walked.
Miu Miu
The autumn/winter 2024 collection was a rebuttal to all the doubts about Miu Miu’s ability to stay relevant in today's trend landscape. It was Miuccia’s take on banal and ordinary clothes– clothes that can make even more of a powerful statement without going viral. Most of the outfits had a utilitarian aura and could easily be worn by anyone across genders. In the notes, Mrs. Prada referred to the collection as “individual moments” and “a vocabulary of clothing, from childhood to adulthood”. It felt like everything a woman would need in her wardrobe, throughout her life, was on that ramp. Pearls, sensational colour blocking, and grandma-core seemed to play key roles. This show felt like a rejection of the girlie tropes often associated with Miu Miu and was yet another masterstroke from the Italian designer, who always confounds expectations.
Louis Vuitton
The Louis Vuitton show was staged at Cour Carree du Louvre, the same place where Nicolas presented his first LV collection. The collection was a reflection of the last decade of fashion by Nicolas Ghesquiere– yet it looked forward to the future. Whites and silvers reigned supreme, with occasional hints of black, and gold. First Lady Brigette Macaron was among one of 4000 people celebrating Nicolas’ legacy. Though technically an anniversary collection, Louis Vuitton Fall 2024 isn't a retrospective — the show notes instead describe it as a "journey in retrospect, with memory as the guide for imagination." There were sporty technical jackets fashioned as mini dresses, tailored outerwear made out of scuba material, and gilded brocade coats. There was also a thematic aura– a fascination with historical silhouettes and reinterpreting them through a futurist lens.
Also Read: How Milan Fashion Week 2024 made a case for elevated everyday wear
