The hottest moments from Paris Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer '25

After stops in London, Florence, and Milan, the menswear season commenced in Paris on June 18. A key highlight of the event was the showcase of Dries Van Noten's final collection as the creative director of his eponymous label. Additionally, Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson, Hermès’ Véronique Nichanian, Dior Men’s Kim Jones, and Louis Vuitton’s Pharrell Williams also showcased their latest collections. Here are some of the key highlights from the fashion spectacle!

Louis Vuitton 

Pharrell Williams’ LV show, titled ‘The World is Yours’ was staged at the Maison de l’UNESCO. It celebrated the intercultural exchange and a feeling of global discovery—connected with the label’s heritage of travel. The show started with a cinematic prelude by Air Afrique, the Paris-based creative collective that curated several logos and patterns for the show. Pilot jackets, diplomat uniforms, second-skin garments. Manbags dominated the collection with everything from travel carry-ons and duffels, to totes, and classic handbags. We also witnessed the debut of the soft leather bag—Alma, Neverfull, and Christopher. The best part? The entire show was all set to the best soundtrack—‘Falling Up’ by Adekunle Gold, Nile Rodgers, and Pharrell Williams himself. 

Rick Owens 

Rick Owens certainly brought the drama with his collection, ‘Hollywood’—a tribute to Hollywood Boulevard, where he first started his business in the ’90s. Set against the scenic Palais de Tokyo, the show seemed almost like a spiritual seance. The outfits comprised of robes, hoods, and tunics similar to the ones worn during ritualistic processions—think Bene Gesserit from Dune. Models descended the gallery’s famed staircase, looped around its central body of water, as they emerged in groups wearing identical white outfits. These included featherweight monastic gowns and layers of jersey that appeared to be torn across its surface. Some even wielded enormous scaffold-like structures and flags. It was très dramatic and très cool.

Ami Alexandre Mattiussi

Contrary to traditional spring/summer norms, the Ami collection was all about blacks and neutrals. Mattiussi closed the third day of Paris Fashion Week with a bang, opening the doors to a dishevelled building in the Saint-Germain neighbourhood. The three-story venue, with peeling walls, was jammed with old-school French tunes, setting the tone for the looks to come. In true AMI fashion, the collection was sleek and refined while also highly wearable for the everyday. Shirt dresses crafted in see-through linen with gilded accents and collarless suits paired with flared bottoms were among the highlights of the collection. These were followed by structured checkered tops that transition seamlessly from day to night. For accessories, the tuxedo looks were complemented by minimalistic slim belts, while the oversized trench coats featured exaggerated lapels that elevated the look.

Dior Homme 

Kim Jones paid tribute to the South African master potter, Hylton Nel with a craft-intensive collection showcased amidst giant cat sculptures. He made a strong case for bucket hats among other accessories, honing his signature suiting to add a contemporary flair to the house’s classic saddle bags. Nel’s animal motifs gave the collection a fun and artic rejuvenation, exuding an undeniable allure. The tailoring was kept tight with muted, natural colours. Extended collars and pleated trousers were abundant, fulfilling the Dior house code of sophisticated men’s suits. Vests and shorts also rounded out the collection with several blue and pink pieces for the more adventurous Dior man. Continuing to honour the house’s sartorial excellence, this menswear collection was all about longevity and utility, combining wearability with playful elements at its core.

Comme des Garçon Homme Plus 

Rei Kawakubo uplifted spirits with handsomely tailored garments crafted with dressy fabrics, vibrant colours, and ruffles galore. The headgear sported by models underscored the fact that florals for spring might not be groundbreaking, but they still remain a timeless concept. The show unfolded in multiple parts, beginning with loud plaid jackets adorned with blocks of white space and colorful grids on shirts. This then transitioned to softer hues of pale blue with button-downs intricately manipulated into floral patterns followed by suits where colours seemed almost printed onto the fabric due to their crushed appearance. Then came the monochrome phase dominated by white button-downs, black hoodies, and asymmetric vests quilted in squares, before culminating in a finale featuring a pastel palette of pinks.

Loewe 

The 10th anniversary of Jonathan Anderson’s first men’s presentation for Loewe saw models captivate the audience as they (literally) emerged from the ground. The core theme was minimalism or as Anderson puts it, “the radical act of restraint.” Feathers took centre stage as they dangled before the visage of the models, essentially cutting the face and making it all about the clothes. The show opened with sharply tailored black ensembles and transitioned to draped silk tops and other pieces that played with perception. Meanwhile, couture-level craftsmanship was evident all along. Elongated dress shoes were another esoteric play on silhouettes, in classic Loewe fashion. Together, the effect was arresting and beautiful—much like Anderson’s streak of winning collections at both JW Anderson and Loewe.

Hermès

Hermès surprised the audience with its minimal use of leather in its SS25 collection, which showcased a symphony of linen and cotton in soothing whites and blues. Véronique Nichanian worked a sweet palette of pastels into a collection inspired by the seaside life. Leather made a subtle appearance in the form of sandals and a sleeveless bomber jacket, amidst the sea of docker hats, trench coats, and drawstring trousers. The models exuded a beach-ready vibe dressed in breezy silhouettes, strappy sandals, and sweet pastels reminiscent of the shorelines and landscapes of several Mediterranean destinations. Starting with hues like powdery lilac, sand, and baby pink, the colour palette soon shifted like a summer’s horizon incorporating tones like navy, grey, camel, and chocolate into the collection. Accessories added a hint of colour and shine to the ensembles, giving them some edge and appeal.

Dries Van Noten 

Beloved Belgian designer Dries Van Noten took his final bow in Paris with a collection that traversed through space and time, blending monochrome classics and statement bling pieces. It was his 129th runway show, staged at the same venue as his 50th show in 2004—La Courneuve, just outside of Paris. The looks for the evening were composed of layers, toying with themes of opacity and transparency to create wearable ensembles. A mix of monochromes such as greys and blacks was set off with occasional pops of colour in regal purples and peaches, all accentuated by gold embroidery. The emotional and captivating showcase only made it harder to bid farewell to Noten—but he kept the party going as the curtain revealed a giant disco ball, allowing the guests to revel in the legacy of a fashion legend. 

Feature image credit: @LouisVuitton/Instagram