Key trends from the international couture weeks that you should bookmark

As the curtain closes on the Autumn/Winter 2024 and Spring/Summer 2025 fashion season across countries, the key trends draw inspiration from unique narratives, personal expressions, and celebrate art and creativity in all its glory.

SOCIAL MESSAGE

Fashion has long spoken about socio-political issues to draw attention to important causes. Take A$ap Rocky’s AWGE show on American Sabotage, for instance, it intertwined art with activism to challenge the status quo. Adrian Appiolaza’s collection for Moschino was infused with wit and the message of universal peace and love.

STYLE MEETS PRACTICALITY

Matteo Tamburini’s debut collection for Tod’s bridged the essence of quality and practicality with leisure, seamlessly blending formal and informal into one. Matthieu Blazy’s collection for Bottega Veneta offered elevated essentials like peacoats, tailored trousers, and oversized shirts—highlighting practical yet polished pieces.

SHEER DRAMA

Whether it is Saint Laurent’s (Womenswear F/W 2024-2025, Paris) style of turning pantyhose into a dress, Tom Ford’s sultry and glamorous line-up, or Diesel’s F/W’24 show in Milan that projected a video call with 700 people as the backdrop to give behind-the-scenes access to its audience. Transparency, both literally and figuratively, in fashion is growing to redefine norms.

STRUCTURED SILHOUETTE

Constructed outfits have been quite popular for a while now. The 20th century introduced the S-bend silhouette, which has taken new forms over a period of time. Evident in the latest collections of Dior, Jil Sander, Alexander McQueen, and others. This suggests a return of powerful and defined shapes—a celebration of the art of detailing.

INNOVATION AT THE FOREFRONT

Designers rode high on innovation—from Loewe curating everyday objects as art for the runway, Prada reimagining work uniforms, to bags reminiscent of airplane neck pillows at the Maison Margiela show. The disappearing dress by Balenciaga that can be worn only once, Iris van Herpen’s unique take on wearable art, and the intimate drama at the Schiaparelli show sealed the deal for couture connoisseurs.

NOSTALGIA AT PLAY

 

Pop culture’s obsession with the ’90s nostalgia is one for the books, and fashion has a major role to play in it—think baggy pants, flannel, corsets, and transparent layers. Chanel paid homage to its founder’s early designs while Daniel Lee’s A/ W collection for Burberry is a nostalgic nod to British and Irish wool. Hedi Slimane’s off-schedule Celine show was an ode to photographer Richard Avedon with a collection inspired by the 1960’s.

CLASSIC CONTEMPORARY

Pharrell Williams’ S/S’25 collection for Louis Vuitton at UNESCO in Paris offered a contemporary spin to the classic designs. Emblematic motifs, velvets, cropped tailored jackets, bombers, and flight suits were at play. Similarly, Maximilian Davis’ Resort 2025 collection for Ferragamo blended modernity with signature sophistication.

BREAKING THE MOULD OF TRADITION

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s (inspired by wind) and Junya Watanabe’s Spring 2025 collection for men (a semi-formal dress code) showcase in Paris, presented dynamism and movement. Highlighting a shift towards modifiable garments, there was creative use of patchwork, prints, and colours.

All images credit: Getty Images 

This article first appeared in Harper's Bazaar India, August 2024, print edition. 

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