Kartik Kumra redefines modern Indian menswear with his collection at Paris Fashion Week SS25

Just hours after showcasing his Spring 2025 collection at Paris Fashion Week, designer Kartik Kumra exudes his usual calm. Far from a college project, Kartik Research is all grown up now. When asked how this collection was born, he dives right in, “The inspiration for this season was the election cycle and the sociopolitical flux. Governance and authoritarianism were constantly on my mind. I wanted to create something that offered a bit of escape and hope.” Over the past four months, Kumra immersed himself in documentaries about pilgrimages, analysing and observing the uniforms people wear on these journeys. “From the idea of uniforms,” he continues, “we also explored the concept of modern Indian workwear—what it means and where it’s headed.” Photographs and vintage documents spanning the Indian subcontinent filled his mood board. “There was a Quentin de Briey series on Ladakh, in particular, that really captivated me.”

This collection, a lovechild of optimism and experience, overflows with thoughtful pieces that resonated strongly on the PFW runway. Kumra used block prints on silk, and handloom cotton decorated with embroidered chintz prints. The show also included exclusive pairs of embellished Converse sneakers. “We landed the opening slot this time, a huge improvement from last season! A good spot always makes a difference,” Kumra reflects.

After the collection was ready, came the whirlwind of assembling the creative team—models, stylists, and the whole crew. “I spent the past few days managing castings, fittings, and pulling everything together. It truly came down to the wire,” recalls Kumra. The venue for the show was Le Philanthro-Lab, a 15th-century building in the heart of Paris. “It was a beautiful old French building, right across Notre Dame,” Kumra describes, “with stunning natural light.”

Immediately after fulfilling orders from his previous show, Kumra plunged into crafting this one. But the core values remained the same—no use of electricity and a tight focus on sustainability. “We stayed true to our approach of reinterpreting and reimagining Indian craftsmanship, but this time with a strong focus on tailoring—soft shoulders and loose, boxy silhouettes.” His excitement is palpable as he discusses working with artisans across more than a dozen Indian states, specifically the handloom linens he developed in Madhya Pradesh. “My favourite look was number 6,” he beams, “the yellow embroidered jacket! It took forever to make, and it turned out beautifully.” While workwear served as the foundation, a touch of whimsy permeated the collection, retaining the signature eccentricity of Kartik Research pieces. “But wearability remains paramount,” Kumra assures.

Despite a global pandemic and a change of name, Kumra’s eponymous brand is thriving. He is putting a cultured twist on menswear like no one else. Only two-and-a-half years into full-time designing, Kumra already boasts a presence alongside global brands on major luxury e-commerce platforms. Additionally, he opened a store in Delhi’s Greater Kailash II just a couple of months ago. From being a new kid on the block to garnering an LVMH prize nomination and dressing A-listers, Kumra’s journey has been remarkable and only on the rise. “As a designer, you pour your time, effort, and resources into your creations. Showcasing them in the best places, with the most discerning eyes on them, becomes a priority. Paris offers that.”  While acknowledging the long road ahead for success in India, Kumra is set on New York (apologies, Mumbai) for his next store opening. 

All Image Credits: Kartik Research

This article originally appeared in Harper's Bazaar India, June-July 2024 print issue. 

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