How Rahul Mishra, Falguni Shane Peacock, and others have influenced the global runway with their craft

In many ways, this has been the year of Indian fashion. While our centuries-old craftsmanship has been the backbone of international fashion houses for decades, it’s only now that India is finally stepping out of the sideline to claim its place in the spotlight. Marrying history with contemporary relevance, it is a poetic story of old meets new to preserve and further our design heritage.

From the landmark Dior Pre-Fall 2023 show in Mumbai this March to Indian designers opening stores around the world and being worn on international red carpets, the collective movement is one that positions our sartorial language as ‘made in India’ but made for the world. Another big shift has been fashion week showcases by homegrown designers in major fashion capitals of the world—thereby, turning around the definition of Indian design and bringing a modern rendition of the country’s craft legacy to a global stage. Bazaar India speaks to a few of these runway stars as they pave the way forward for the India story.

Rahul Mishra

The New Delhi-based designer’s journey is one of many firsts—the first Indian designer to win the Woolmark Prize in 2014, and also the first to showcase at Paris Haute Couture Week in 2020. Rahul, who is also a regular on Paris Fashion Week’s official ready-to-wear calendar, used the platform to launch his new RTW label called AFEW Rahul Mishra with Reliance Brands this September.

India for the world: Rahul wants Indian fashion to create a fresh narrative and aesthetic that goes beyond the Western perspective, embodying the distinctiveness of India.

Staying rooted: “I don’t want Indian fashion to become so westernised that it loses its connection to its roots,” says Rahul who feels clothing from India should always carry that unmistakable Indian-ness while striking a balance with global sensibilities.

Looking ahead: Conceptualised by Rahul and his wife Divya, AFEW is deeply rooted in their DNA. “We wanted to create something that’s not only serious and fashion-forward but also a reflection of how we envision modern India,” he says.

Kanika Goyal

Kanika Goyal’s neo-luxe contemporary wear marries bold tailoring with street edge and whimsical embroideries. 2023 marked her third outing at New York Fashion Week. Is there a moment that stands out from the experience? “Being part of the ‘Runway X by Afterpay’ programme at NYFW as one among eight designers redefining the future of fashion was special,” says the designer.

India for the world: “Indian fashion reflects our growing cultural and economic power. It’s rooted in tradition but not restricted by it,” feels Kanika.

Busting myths: Kanika does not want Indian fashion to be perceived as a cheap imitation of Western fashion. “The perception that India is just about colourful clothes and traditional embroideries needs to change,” she adds.

Global bestsellers: Kanika’s graphic bombers and shirts, hybrid deconstructed coats, denim pieces, embellished everything and colour-blocked dresses are popular across India, USA, Canada, Japan, Europe, Russia, Australia and the Middle East.

Falguni Shane Peacock

The husband-wife duo’s list of celebrity patrons is teeming with A-listers. Think everyone from Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian to Priyanka Chopra Jonas. This September, Falguni and Shane Peacock took to New York Fashion Week to showcase their collection ‘2.0’ that married edgy streetwear with the glamour of demi-couture. One of the show’s biggest talking points—having celebrated stylist Law Roach on board as the creative director.

Turning point: “Dressing Fergie for her FIFA World Cup performance in 2010. She then went on to wear the brand on many occasions,” reminisces Falguni.

Looking ahead: With a huge demand for their traditional, prêt and contemporary wear in the USA and the Middle East, the duo is focused on opening international stores. As well as reaching a wider audience in South Korea and Japan.

Global bestsellers: The bejewelled and feather jackets, printed kaftans, and dresses.

Dhruv Kapoor

Be it his logo sweatshirts, tie-up shirts or co-ord sets, Dhruv Kapoor’s is a label cool kids around the world flock to. After multiple presentations in the Italian capital over the years, he became the first Indian with a menswear show at Milan Fashion Week in 2022.

Dhruv’s appeal lies in his gender- and generation-fluid contemporary wear that has patrons across the USA, the Middle East, Japan, Europe and China.

Breakthrough moment: “It was losing one contest that turned out to be the biggest win for us. Because one night later, we received a surprising email from Milan inviting us to showcase at Milan Fashion Week,” reveals the designer.

India for the world: Dhruv wishes for the world to understand that India is not only a mass-production country, but has skilled craftsmen that can match or surpass qualities from giant couture houses.

Busting myths: “I’ve found buyers are often concerned about delivery timelines and quality when working with Indian brands. I don’t want us to be perceived as lazy or unorganised,” he adds.

Vaishali S

A couture brand from Mumbai, Vaishali Shadangule has taken her signature wearable art made using Indian weaves to fashion weeks in Paris and Milan. In 2021, she became the first Indian female designer at Paris Haute Couture Week. She showed at Milan Fashion Week in the same year too. “India has the strongest heritage and the best workmanship that all top Houses use. We need to bring back design in our fashion, not only embroideries and bling,” she feels.

Milestone moment: Being invited by the Paris Haute Couture Committee to showcase at the event. She was the only Indian designer with a physical presentation that year.

Looking ahead: “Paris now knows my couture. I want to give them easy access to the Vaishali S experience with a store in the city,” says Vaishali.

Global bestsellers: Her corded dress and textured capes are a hit in the USA, Saudi Arabia, the UK, and the Middle East.

Mayyur Girotra

A strong following within the diaspora community encouraged Indian occasion-wear designer Mayyur Girotra to partake in the first-ever South Asian New York Fashion Week last year. This year, he returned to the Big Apple for a collaboration with Google and New York Pride 2023. “The move to establish a significant presence in the United States has been a strategic one,” reveals the designer.

India for the world: “Our craftsmanship and techniques are revered worldwide. Indian fashion is now impossible to overlook. Our rich culture, techniques and innovative designs are universally appreciated,” says Mayyur.

Busting myths: Pigeonholing Indian fashion into stereotypes like excessive embellishments or relentless maximalism needs to end. “It can be sleek, minimalistic and refined, defying conventional expectations too,” he feels.

What’s next: After a standalone store in New Jersey, Chicago is next on the horizon for him.

Ara Lumiere

Philanthropist Kulsum Shadab Wahab, executive director of Hothur Foundation, founded Ara Lumiere to empower acid attack survivors by showcasing their skilled workmanship with accessories and clothing. “Fashion is a profound tool for empowerment and social impact. It has the power to challenge stereotypes and societal norms,” she says of the brand’s core values. The brand has been part of multiple presentations at Milan Fashion Week.

Milestone moments: Winning the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards in Milan last year that recognises brands using fashion as a tool to better lives and the environment.

India for the world: “Indian fashion is evolving, modern and diverse. It shouldn’t be limited by stereotypes but celebrated for its innovation and dynamism.”

Looking ahead: Ara Lumiere is in the midst of launching a prêt line and also a festive collection, thereby, creating more job opportunities for the women who work with them.