The 16th edition of India Couture Week opened nine days back amid much enthusiasm and anticipation. The fashion gala, which will go on until August 2 at the Taj Palace Hotel in New Delhi, is jointly organised by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) and Hyundai Motor India. Designers Falguni Shane Peacock opened the FDCI X Hyundai India Couture Week 2023, in association with Reliance Brands, with actor Kiara Advani walking as the showstopper for them as they unveiled their signature couture collection ‘Renaissance Reverie’.
Kiara Advani walked after what seemed like ages on the runway as the showstopper. Pia Sutaria’s fabulous ballet piece opened the show, giving us a moment and an incandescent mood that set the template for what was to come.
All the trends we loved on Day 9
The couture week culminated with otherworldly, shimmering and traditional Indian influences in the showcase of master couturier Rahul Mishra’s collection called, ‘We, The People.’ The collection pays homage to each and every artisan and craftsman of India who have, generation after generation created enthralling and magical ensembles through exquisite embroidery and handiwork. Mishra’s vision of an India rooted in its craft, and heritage truly comes alive with this showcase.
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Actor Vaani Kapoor turned up the heat looking stunning as ever in a red lehenga as she walked down the ramp for designer Isha Jajodia, who made her debut with her ‘Romantic Reverie’ collection. The red chikankari ensemble featured a deep v-neek bralette with floral lace detailing that was paired with a skirt and red dupatta.
Jajodia's debut collection was a fusion between the fashion of the French Riviera and the golden era of Hollywood. With chinkankari details being prominent throughout, the collection showcased a lot a delicate lacework, pearls and crystals.
Up next was couturier Rajesh Pratap Singh who presented his collection 'Desert Rose'. The collection was inspired by the words of legendary singers and song writers such as Bob Dylan, Rod Stewart and David Bowie. One witnessed saw vibrant, structural pieces and edgy silhouettes, that were brought to life through Partap’s ingenuity on display.
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Disha Patani sizzled in a silver shimmy ensemble for Dolly J as the walked down the ramp in a silver bralette and a mermaid slit skirt, that featured a sexy thigh-high side slit, flaunting her toned and fit physique. As far as her accessories go, it was all things silver in the form of statement earrings, a bracelet, and shinny strappy heels.
The collection by Dolly J, titled 'Selene: Our Celestial Enchantress,' sought inspiration from the moon that is a symbol of beauty, mystery and wonder. It featured soft, flowing silhouettes that accentuate the wearer, evoking the moon's gentle radiance.
Sara Ali Khan and Aditya Roy Kapoor showed everyone what chemistry is all about as the duo turned showstoppers for desginers Shantnu & Nikhil. Khan wore a pastel pink ballet top and paired it with a peachy-cream coloured lehenga skirt that featured intricate silver hand embroidery and sequin work. On the other hand, Kapoor looked dapper in an ivory sherwani set with a zardozi collar and white salwar.
The collection ‘Etheria’, by Shantnu & Nikhil drew inspiration from the ethereal beauty of travel and the allure of a bygone era. Influenced by the designers’ travels across Italy, especially Catania in Sicily, it was a fusion of Indian and Roman elements that included bridal silhouettes featuring ornate veils, bejeweled capes, and gloves.
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Ananya Panday glittered in gold as she walked the ramp as the showstopper for Rimzim Dadu. The actor's 'Golden bird' look was a golden slit skirt with a leaf structure on it that was paired with a blouse with mesh and lace and some golden jewellery and earrings.
Panday was the showstopper for Dadu's collection titled 'Hydrochromic' that paid homage to water – its form, its power, and versatility. Rooted in abstract patterns combined with a certain fluidity that makes use of innovative techniques of embroidery and more, the collection showcased a spectacular play of metallic tones and edgy silhouettes.
Shetty's ethereal look included a beige floor-length silhouette applique work, floral, pearls, and thread work with a thigh-high slit. She chose a statement necklace to accessorize her look, complementing embroidered attire with a glam makeup look.
Anamika Khanna's collection embraced silver and gold metallics, antiquated allure, emeralds, pearls, pastel hues, and the elegance of ivory and black. With a prominent play on lace in ivory tones, heavy embellishments, a hint of gold, and floral prints that were refreshing to the eye, the collection was bold, delicate, and stunning.
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Sobhita Dhulipala sizzled in silver on the ramp in a silver lehenga. The ensemble had intricate sequin embellishments, a strappy blouse, and saw wear the choli with a matching low-rise waist lehenga, and a sheer dupatta with fringes. Her look, one that included glossy nude lip shade, winger eyeliner, feathered brows, and eye shadow was completed with strappy heels, bracelets, and rings with her opting for a pulled-back side-parted sleek hairdo.
On the other hand, Ishaan Khatter had all eyes on him as he looked dapper as ever in an all-black suit (a blazer and straight-fit bands) with shimmering silver embroidery. What made his look stand out was the black necktie with sequins on the front.
The duo were the face of Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna's collection titled 'Equinox'—inspired by the cosmos and celestial elements of the universe. The collection drew inspiration from the ever-evolving patterns of cosmic events such as the autumn equinox through unlined fabrics and 3D embroidery techniques. Reflecting the change of seasons during Autumn Equinox, the collection featured colors spanning from milkyway blue along with highlights in garnet, rosewood, and twilight lavender.
The night culminated with Tarun Tahiliani presenting his collection ‘For Eternity’. This bridal couture collection saw him trace the history of craft across India to celebrate indigenous artisans and create heirlooms to be cherished for generations. This, along with ever-evolving techniques, impeccable tailoring, and contemporary design, the collection created a stunning amalgamation of the East meeting the West. From intricate embroidery and stunning colours—the showcase was a testament to this vision.
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Bollywood heartthrob Ranbir Kapoor brought his charm to the ramp as he walked the ramp absolutely slaying in Kunal Rawal's fusion fit 'Dhup Chao'. Displaying a lot of Punjabi vibes, the stylish actor, in his lungi-style pants had all eyes on him. The icing on the cake was the Punjabi music that played during his ramp walk. As far as his look goes, it was a black jacked with bandhgala, that had a lot of shimmer in the form of silver buttons and sequins. However, it was his pants, that featured a lungi on one side, that caught everyone's attention. Safe it say, it was a dapper look that reminded everyone that he continues to be one of the most stylist names in showbiz.
Titled, 'Dhup Chao,' Rawal's collection paid ode to India's heritage, crafts and culture through modern-heirlooms. With handcrafted embroidery, bold mirror work, and a play of classic tones, the collection was all things elegant, understated, and classic. Spectators were treated to an enchanting kaleidoscope of colors, sounds, flavours, and architectural marvels that represent and highlight the hustle and bustle of India’s lanes, their vibrant markets, the havelis, and beaches with pulsating music.
Up next was designer JJ Valaya, who presented his collection titled 'Baroda' that celebrated the colourful history and culture of Gujarat. Paying incredible attention to detail, traditional craftsmanship, and a fusion of chic classicism and contemporary allure, the collection made for a stupendous sight to see. It was a triple treat spanning three chapters with the first (Art Deco) being a fusion between the craft of Lipan and Mughal inlay motifs. The second (Nomade) was Kutch motifs and mirror work getting a modern touch. The final chapter (Royale) witnessed the Mashru fabric of Gujarat blended with Portuguese Azulejos tiles.
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Bhumi Pednekar looked gorgeous in gold as she walked the ramp for couturier Varun Bahl, who presented his collection 'Inner Bloom', a testament to nature's ever-evolving bloom and beauty. Pednekar made heads turn as she wore a fishnet skirt and a bralette with gold hand embroidery. She paired her outfit with neckpieces, bracelets, and golden stilettos.
Bahl's collections, which was all things vibrant and floral, had artisanal embroideries with stunning 3D flowers. Catering to the contemporary and modern bride, these dreamy designs married free-spirited, boho-chic with haute couture craftsmanship.
Jahnvi Kapoor walked the ramp as a showstopper for Gaurav Gupta's collection, 'Hiranyagarbha'. She looked resplendent in an electric blue lehenga adorned with 3,000 hand-embroidered bugle beads that took 457 man hours to make.
Inspired by the cosmos in Vedic philosophy, the collection included interpretations of the five elements, Panchamahabhutas—earth (prithvi), water (jal), fire (agni), air (vayu), and space (akasha). For this edit of the couture collection, the designer expanded the Hiranyagarbha story to include reception cocktail lehengas, gowns, saris, and modern hybrid silhouettes with the synergies of comfortable, confident, easy couture.
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Aditi Rao Hydari brought together the perfect blend of elegance, beauty, and grace, as she walked the ramp for designer Ritu Kumar. The couturier presented a regal collection that celebrated Chintz and paid a fitting tribute to the country's rich and diverse craft, culture, and heritage.
Hydari donned an ivory ensemble that had magnificent handicraft detailing. The full-sleeve blouse she wore was done up with intricate embroidery and mirrorwork. The look was completed with a maangtika.
The night didn't just end there. Suneet Varma set the mood for a vibrant coming together of design with his collection 'Mogra'. Varma's outfits boasted large, abstract-shaped mirrors adorned with multicoloured thread embroidery and elegant detailing. The lehengas, with their off-shoulder blouses and jackets, were in dark shades of blue and burgundy. The collection was completed with draped skirts worn with capes and ruffled shirts paired with high-waisted palazzo pants.
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The night kick-started with Falguni Shane Peacock showcasing their love for the Renaissance era, transporting everyone to a world of pastels and metallics, that was ever-present with intricate thread work and embellishments. The collection celebrated the remarkable and effortless fusion of rich Indian culture and exquisite craftsmanship. The traditional veil made a welcome return to the ramp in a contemporary style. The creations, with remarkable Renaissance accents such as bows on blouses, floor-length capes, crop jackets, bow belts, and ruffled sleeves, made for a spectacular opening night.
The collection also included mermaid-fit lehengas with feathers and sequins. The outfits were paired with statement earrings. The most eye-catching pieces on the ramp, however, were a bejewelled sehra and a 3D-printed appliqué work.
The designers closed the evening on a high with actor Kiara Advani walking the ramp as their showstopper. Advani was channelling her inner Barbie with the hot-pink bralette, a high-slit matching lehenga skirt that featured sequin embellishments, and high, metallic heels.
The list of participating designers at the India Couture Week includes Anamika Khanna, Dolly J, Gaurav Gupta, JJ Valaya, Kunal Rawal, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rimzim Dadu, Ritu Kumar, Rohit Gandhi Rahul Khanna, Rose Room, Samant Chauhan, Shantanu Nikhil, Suneet Varma, Tarun Tahiliani, and Varun Bahl.
Fashion designer Rahul Mishra will conclude the fashion week with his latest collection, an extension of the Couture Fall 2023 collection that he presented at the Haute Couture Week in Paris earlier this month.