#SkinSchool: Ways to menopause-proof your skin

The skin is a barometer of our hormonal health; a window into just how well our body is balanced. That window often loses its sparkle during the perimenopause—and no wonder; it’s a constantly changing hormonal rollercoaster which some of us end up riding for years. In a survey by No7 skincare, more than half of women during the menopause didn’t expect a change to their complexion, while 72 per cent went on to say they weren’t happy with the appearance of their skin.

At the onset, when progesterone tends to fall, we might notice that our skin becomes more dry—flaky, even—something a lifelong combination skin sufferer can attest to. Then as the perimenopause continues, oestrogen starts to ebb and flow, increasing testosterone so that skin loses its bounce and spring. On top of that, we lose up to a third of our collagen in the first five years after the menopause kicks in.

But that’s not to say that you just have to sit back and wait for the hormonal onslaught – especially not now, with such good, and specific, skincare available. Besides, what better excuse to invest in the best pro-ageing products from the most forward-thinking beauty brands, including No7, Clarins, Elemis, and Lancôme, who have firmly put the menopause in their scientific sights.

Of course, how each of us (and our faces) experience the menopause is going to be wildly different, but if you find any similarities in my story (and skin), then it’s worth sharing. Here's what I’ve learned so far about what works on my perimenopausal face. Of course, the rollercoaster continues, but as long as these products take the ride with me, I’m pretty much cruising the skin ups and downs.

Quenching dry skin

Hydration isn’t a new concept for any skincare shopper, but dry skin is a hallmark of the menopause, so it’s time to up your ante with good-quality hyaluronic acid and lipid-rich formulas. 

"Dry skin is more prone to sensitisation, so the more robust you coax your barrier to be, the better," explains dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting. "Seek out well-balanced formulas that contain occlusives, to lock water in; humectants, to attract water in; and barrier repair ingredients, to fortify the strength of the skin’s ‘brick wall’ structure, which is ultimately the key to your complexion looking and performing beautifully."

Interestingly, as Dr Usman Qureshi, wellness doctor and founder of Luxe Skin adds, "If you suffer from dry skin, eat an anti-inflammatory diet, such as olive oil and leafy green vegetables, and avoid hot showers too".

Introducing retinol 

With slowing cell turnover and plummeting collagen levels, most derms will prescribe a retinoid—a potent active ingredient. "Retinoids are an incredibly positive step for the long-term health and beauty of your skin and should be done gently, as if commencing a new exercise regime," says Dr Bunting. Go prescriptive, or opt for brands like La Roche-Posay and Paula’s Choice which work well for starters.

Managing blemishes

Sorry, I hate to add insult to injury, but spots are also an aggravating by-product of the hormonal turbulence that menopause is about to put you through. However, as Dr Bunting notes, "Breakouts are especially challenging if your skin is dry as anti-blemish solutions are often even more irritating in this context. Note that retinoids are first-line prevention—but you should also equip yourself with an anti-inflammatory ‘defuser’ for active blemishes. The best ones are 2.5-5 per cent benzoyl peroxide and 1-2 per cent salicylic acid. Apply over moisturiser if you’re prone to dryness and keep localised to just the spot."

Getting barrier protection 

Your skin needs help here; that reduction in oestrogen and plummeting collagen I mentioned can often cause the skin barrier to become compromised, which is why complexions can feel stressed and sensitised. 

Dr Bunting advises supporting your skin by first taking out any stringent extras. "Drop out ‘freshening’ toners, physical exfoliants, and fragranced facial mists/spritzes—all of these potentially irritate and take up room in the tank."

Go for gentle cleansers, those which maintain the lipid barrier, and always use tepid water as Dr Bunting warns. "Cleanser should not foam or be fragranced. I cannot emphasise this enough. And don’t use anything rougher than fingertips to remove it with."

Brightening your skin tone 

You can add sallow skin to your list of complexion woes totting up (as a slow cell turnover means a build-up of dead cells, which simply means light can’t as easily bounce off your skin). That is, unless you add vitamin C into your skincare mix which will regulate the production of melanin that causes hyperpigmentation. 

Acing sunscreen

The truth is that you need sunscreen at every age. "During the menopause, by protecting your skin, you free up resources, allowing skin to repair itself. This is best achieved—you know the drill—by using a proper broad-spectrum sunscreen in the correct amount (it’s a standard dose, so no skimping!) and reapplying if you’re going to be spending time outdoors. What’s the right one for you? The one you actually like wearing! My favourites? Ultra Violette Lean Screen Mineral Mattifying Fragrance-Free Skinscreen SPF50+ and La Roche Posay La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+ Sun Cream."