Discovering jewels of the ocean on an island hopping tour of Maldives

I have never been a ‘beach person’. And thinking about the sheer enormity of oceans, marvelling at the sights from afar...admiring the ombré shades of the water—the sun rising from it and eventually melting into it—and the extensive life the ocean guards.

But 2022 had other plans for me. They say travelling enhances our understanding of the world...which, in turn, enhances one’s understanding of oneself. And spending a few days in this beautiful island country helped me unravel a side of me that loves sun, sand, and salty water.

This was my second trip to the Maldives, but first at a Four Seasons property in the country—they have two resorts, a private island, and a yacht cruise that cater to travellers’ numerous desires.

Maldives’ capital, Malé, is a short flight away from most cities in India. And a swift visa-on-arrival process later, I was escorted to the Four Seasons’ private, VIP lounge at the Velana Airport. One is acquainted with the famed Four Seasons’ hospitality starting at the lounge—as you stretch your legs and sip on hot tea. The warm and friendly staff ensures your ride is ready to transport you to your desired location.

My itinerary featured three destinations, starting with the Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa. The boat ride in itself was an experience. You are greeted with scented, cold compresses and iced water to sip on. As I rode the waves in anticipation of spotting dolphins that famously travel in pods, I witnessed the lush island emerge in the distance, with its details sharpening as we got loser. Surrounded by crystal waters, I was welcomed by the cool breeze and a mesmerising sunset. The evening time at the resort is particularly busy with guests flocking to the deck to savour drinks along with the views.

I checked into the water villa featuring a pool, one of the four categories of rooms this property offers, including deluxe beach pavilion with a pool, beach bungalow with a pool, and family beach bungalow with a pool. Inside the room, I witnessed a confluence of Maldivian culture and bespoke details.

The water bungalows feature traditionally-styled accommodations, including decorative lattice panels and a curved roof shape inspired by the Maldives. Timber and thatch details complement the natural surroundings, while the subtly-raised floors maximise the sea views.

The en-suite bathrooms feature an indoor bath and shower area, but the extra-long infinity pool with expansive views would make most guests want to jump in the ocean for a quick swim. If you, like me, find that overwhelming, you can opt for the pool, or lounge about on the over-water hammock or the swing couch.

A refreshing dip later, I was ready to explore the culinary landscape of the resort. Kuda Huraa has four restaurants, two bars, and in-bungalow dining options. I picked Baraabaru for dinner as it has been crowned as one of the best Indian restaurants in the country, serving artful food to delight the senses.

As someone who takes her own sweet time to find roots in a new place, Baraabaru’s typically-Indian chaat entrées, thalis full of flavourful dishes, and dessert options certainly lived up to the hype.

In case you are tempted to whip up a meal as delectable as Baraabaru serves, the restaurant also hosts daytime cooking masterclasses for its guests. Other dining options at the resort include Café Huraa, an all-day al fresco restaurant with a vibrant menu of Western, Asian, and Maldivian specialities; Reef Club offering local seafood and Tuscan flavours; and Kandu Grill, which serves fresh catch of the day alongside choice meats, seafood, salads, and side dishes from an open kitchen pavilion. The Four Seasons’ team is conscious of how important a role food plays on holidays. So if your heart desires something else, the chefs are willing to present delicacies of your choice, on request.

The next morning was a relaxing blur for me with beautiful floating breakfast and the healing sound of the water for company. But there was more indulgence awaiting. My agenda for the day included a relaxing spa treatment, and I was ready to savour every minute of it. The charming thing about the Maldives is that everything claims its own island. And The Island Spa, as the name states, is perched on another isle. One would expect the two pieces of land to be connected via a narrow pathway that can be covered by foot, but a traditional Maldivian dhoni boat is the only way you can get there. The journey, even though just a few minutes long, allows you to experience a tiny bit of the local culture. A sandy path led me through their new Yoga Pavilion, where you can explore ancient arts including Yin and Shakti Yoga, Yoga Nidra, and Pranayama sessions. And the lush gardens lead the way to over-water treatment pavilions—they have seven in total, each designed for couples.

The Healing Waters spa menu offers a one-of-a-kind ‘three depths’ treatment concept that helps one restore their primal connection to the sea. ‘Deep’, as the name states, is designed to have a significant therapeutic impact in little time; ‘Deeper’ involves exploratory experiences that draw on the essence of the ocean to restore a sense of harmony; and ‘Deepest’ includes immersive journeys to support physical, mental, and emotional well-being at the extensive level. I opted for the Kuda Huraa Healing: Return to Tranquility 90-minute treatment. Lying face up on cushions of warm water, the masseuse lulled me into a complete state of tranquility—I could have sworn the treatment left my spirit floating.

Post massage, it was time for a siesta, followed by a steady supply of refreshing cocktails. I realised that the concept of time takes a backseat as soon as you set foot in the Maldives. Afternoons converge with evenings effortlessly, allowing you to appreciate the beauty of nature...leaving one with no time for mindless scrolling on social media. A little while later, I planned to meet the resort’s resident marine savers. Four Seasons has a Turtle Conservation Project at Kuda Huraa, wherein they rescue and rehabilitate turtles. I met up with the marine biologists there, who were also my guide for the much-awaited dolphin cruise. At first, we didn’t see any dolphins...there are no guarantees as the sea mammals often travel in large groups in search of food, and may or may not show up on the day you’re craving a sight. But just as I was about to give up, I saw 10...20...almost 200 dolphins in the wild. Watching them swim along our yacht was a truly humbling experience. Others, who seek adrenaline-pumping activities, can also opt for diving, surfing, or shark safaris.

Come evening, I was ready to witness the setting sun paint the endless sky. I was finally getting into the groove of the ‘slow life’, capturing moments not through my smartphone, but my eyes.

I bid adieu to Kuda Huraa the following day, moving on to my next destination: the Four Seasons Resort at Landaa Giraavaru. A 30-minute-long seaplane ride had me admiring the famous blue-green waters of the Maldives, counting the many islands that we flew over. Greeted by happy faces at the jetty, it was time for another adventure. 

The Landaa Giraavaru property is much larger than Kuda Huraa, and has a more rustic-luxury appeal. The 44-acre wilderness in the secluded Baa Atoll Biosphere Reserve links land with sea, conservation with culture, and wellness with innovation. The never-ending island can’t be covered on foot, and each room has bicycles for the guests to explore the island at their leisure—and there is much to be seen.

Landaa Giraavaru boasts raw beauty, and has been designed keeping function over form in mind. You won’t find any elaborate carvings or decoration, but the subtle touches will steal your heart. As they say, God is in the details. Seemingly endless jungle paths, cut-throughs in the vegetation, Instagram-worthy frames created by cross beams, private gardens—all add up to make your stay memorable. The entry to each room is via its own turquoise gate with reclaimed coral walls and lush vegetation, offering complete privacy.

I was curious about the reclaimed coral wall, so after a leisurely lunch at Café Landaa, I set out to learn more about their conservation programmes. I discovered that Four Seasons is committed towards creating a sustainable ecosystem. They paved the way for ‘experiential travel’ in the Maldives over 15 years ago through their interactive conservation initiatives, ranging from groundbreaking Reefscapers coral propagation, Turtle Rehabilitation Centre, and the launch of The Maldivian Manta Ray Project (the founding project of The Manta Trust), which combines active conservation with education, and has amassed the largest number of identified manta rays in the globe on record. If you are visiting between May and October, you can even become a manta researcher for a day, or sign up for ‘Manta on Call’—a thrilling speedboat ride to swim with mantas in the ocean. It is worth noting that Landaa Giraavaru is in close proximity to many virgin dive sites, including over 30 unspoilt coral gardens. It is also just a short boat ride from the renowned manta ray and whale shark hotspots like Hanifaru Bay, Bathalaa island, and Veyofushi Reef. While I couldn’t join the manta chase, I did get myself a beautiful manta ray stone necklace, created by locals, as a keepsake to remember this beautiful place for years to come.

I was beginning to feel more and more at home, and it could have something to do with the fact that the resort considers the ancient science of Ayurveda truly valuable. One can gauge that through their Ayurveda-based food options in the menu, the AyurMa spa that offers treatments based on Ayurvedic principles, and more. Holidays are never complete without suitable relaxation and soul-refreshing treatments, and my next stop was, as you might guess, AyurMa. This spa works towards resetting your awareness and helping you embark on a new path to health, harmony, and happiness. After a consultation with their resident Ayurveda expert, I was treated to a personalised treatment. The AyurMa Complex stretches from the heart of the island to the middle of the lagoon, and has 10 open-air treatment pavilions. The setting, in the middle of a lush forest, with chirping birds and stirring sounds of the wind, added a truly unique touch to the experience. 

After five blissful days, I felt a sense of belonging. While devouring one last meal, I realised that I didn’t feel like a tourist anymore...and it had a lot to do with how I was treated by the Four Seasons’ team, for warmth and personal touch is their love language.

The Private Life

It seems like the Four Seasons thought of everything when planting their Maldivian roots. If a secluded sanctuary is what you seek, an exclusive UNESCO site would do nicely, wouldn’t it? The Four Seasons Private Island at Voavah allows you to relax, retreat, and rejuvenate in luxury, and the beautiful views are a sight for sore eyes. I took a day trip to the humongous island, which is just 20 minutes away via a speedboat from Landaa Giraavaru. The five-acre private island is as pristine as they come. And even though it has been thoughtfully curated by the Four Seasons, it still seems untouched.

Accommodating up to 22 residents, the Voavah property takes luxury to new heights. The resort has seven bedrooms, an open-air living room, library, loft lounge in the central Beach House, gym, and an over-water spa where you can book a massage, yoga lesson or even beauty treatments. It’s your island, and you can enjoy it your way, sans any itinerary. And should you wish to explore the adjoining area, you’ll have a 62-feet yacht at your disposal. Voavah’s remote mid-ocean location is accessible by private jet that can take you to the international airport. 

Cruise Control

Should you wish to embark on a sea voyage during your stay at one of the Four Seasons’ properties, the Explorer is what you need. Offering three-, four-and seven-night ‘Summer of Mantas’ and ‘Winter of Wonders’ itineraries along with private charters, the Explorer is the world’s most intimate Four Seasons resort. The marine odyssey, which can accommodate 22 guests, takes one into the Maldives’ lesser-known atolls. The various itineraries are available on the hotel’s website, making it easier to plan your travel, ensuring you can get intimate with coral-ceiling caves, swim-through tunnels to a fish-filled wreck, watch manta rays and their whale shark friends through the Baa Atoll UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. 

Guests can savour gourmet cuisine, spend time with marine biologists, visit secluded islands for a ‘Cast Away’ experience, and also water-ski, wind-surf, wake-board, fish, kayak, and snorkel in virtually untouched waters.

Photographs: Courtesy the brand