Louis Vuitton explores the 100 years following the French Revolution

The Paris Olympics has put the spotlight on France once again. While the nation rallies for what is surely to be another historical moment, Louis Vuitton has marked the occasion with the launch of its latest high jewellery collection—Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds. Unveiled in Château Saint-Maur in St Tropez in attendance of guests including actors Phoebe Dynevor and Urassa Sperbund, the collection explores the 100 years following the French Revolution (1789) and culminates in the Universal Exposition (1889).

Set to be the sixth collection by Louis Vuitton’s artistic director of watches and jewellery, Francesca Amfitheatrof, Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds attains singular status in the Maison’s history by being the first to feature a tiara, fully traceable rubies, and a yellow LV monogram star-cut diamond. The collection boasts 220 masterpieces spread across 13 themes, some of which are yet to be revealed.

The first chapter, Awakened Hands, includes 11 themes and 100 pieces. It highlights the end of the imperial rule in France and the rise of the country's savoire-faire legacy. “Craftsmanship became the currency of this country. It is the birth of France’s Art de Vivre, and the birth of what we know as luxury today,” says Amfitheatrof.

The five themes of the first chapter embody the crafts. The floral lace-like patterns worked into low-relief wood form the basis for ‘Splendour’—the first theme—and feature Mozambican diamonds that are fully traceable, thanks to blockchain technology. The V-style detailing and cord-like fringing recall the ropes used to hoist the iconic trunks of the Maison in ‘Séduction’, a sinuous platinum and yellow gold necklace set with one of the collection’s most significant stones—a 12.92-carat Zambian emerald. It’s a celebration of textiles and passementerie expertise attached to the particular era echoed further in ‘Phenomenal’, which replicates the intricacy of interwoven fabrics with its yellow gold and platinum body. The tiara is the central piece in ‘Elegance’, a diamond-only theme that applies the French technique of En tremblant in jewellery making, which produces a trembling effect in the piece.

The collection’s second chapter, Awakened Minds, signifies a shift towards the future. In its ‘Perception’ theme, mechanisation and geometric patterns take centre stage, symbolising the rapid pace of industrialisation in the 1850s. The ‘Gravité’ necklace
of the eponymous theme, set with a trio of royal blue Kashmir sapphires in alternating sizes, encapsulates the groundbreaking experiment that confirmed the earth’s rotation around the sun. ‘Optisme’ captures the spirit of Paris in the era, condensed into a refined choker that plays with reflections. The momentous discovery of rail travel paved the way for the design of ‘Vision’, hewed with yellow gold, platinum and set with yellow sapphires.

The ultimate symbol of Paris, which decisively altered its skyline, is the Eiffel Tower. No wonder it plays muse to the penultimate theme of the collection, ‘Victoire’. A necklace, which resembles the Eiffel but upside down in the collection, invites wonder, furthermore for the detachable 15-carat drop of LV flower monogram that can be worn as a ring.

Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds concludes in 1886 with the presentation of the Eiffel Tower to the world, an icon of modernity and innovation symbolic of the century for France. The Cœur de Paris necklace, featuring a 56.23-carat diamond, encapsulates this vision. “Imagine you are standing underneath the Tour Eiffel and looking up,” explains Amfitheatrof. “You’re really looking up at the heart of Paris.” Set with the collection’s most important stone, christened ‘The Cœur de Paris diamond’, the necklace is rightfully the heart of the collection.

Louis Vuitton’s Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds collection is a testament to the Maison’s enduring legacy and its innovative spirit. Each piece pays homage to the rich history of French craftsmanship and sets a new standard for the future of high jewellery. This collection is a celebration of the past, a reflection of the present, and a glimpse into the future of luxury.

Image credit: Louis Vuitton

Photo credits: Nathaniel Goldberg, Giovanni Giannoni, Piotr Stoklosa

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