All the notable fashion moments from Milan Fashion Week SS25

Did you think fashion was taking a breather after the success of New York and London Fashion weeks? Think again. Milan Fashion Week, from September 17 to 23 boasts 58 runway shows and three digital shows, some of the biggest fashion giants showcasing their Spring/Summer '25 collection, and a lot more. 

The schedule is filled with some of the heavy hitters in fashion, making this the most anticipated edition of the season. From Fendi and Prada to Gucci and Versace—not to forget Bottega Veneta and Dolce & Gabbana—no one does fashion quite like the Italians. Though traditionally focused on womenswear, a growing number of brands are unveiling unisex and co-ed collections. What was once a novelty has now become standard practice, with brands like Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo leading the charge under their current creative directors. They’ll be joined by Diesel, Jil Sander, Marni, MM6 Maison Margiela, and more. While Giorgio Armani has skipped MFW and decamped to New York, there is still plenty to look forward to. And with an extra day added to the schedule, there’s more room for emerging designers to shine. Andiamo, Milano!

Day 1

Fendi

Kim Jones’ Fendi SS25 showcase opened Milan Fashion Week. In preparation for the Maison’s centennial celebrations, the collection drew from the epoch Fendi was founded, bringing together the worlds of ready-to-wear and couture, the hand and machine-made, eveningwear, and daywear, in an elevation and celebration of the everyday. The opening look—an art deco sheer shirtdress paired with workwear boots—truly captured the essence of the collection. Reminiscent of the roaring 20s, tea dresses, soft suedes, dancer’s slippers, and baguettes were spotted aplenty. Transparencies, art deco embellishments, and retro silhouettes dominated the line-up as did a neutral palette. 

One thing is for sure—those Red Wing x Fendi collaboration boots will sell like candy. The Italian maison focused on movement, lightness, excellence, and ease with their ready-to-wear collection. Rife with dropped waists, elongated shapes, transparent organzas, and shimmering beading, the show notes cited the 1925 Paris Art Deco exhibition and the publication of F Scott Fitzgerald's The Great Gatsby.

Marni

Though Francesco Risso’s Marni show was over an hour late, it was certainly worth the wait. The collection evoked a surreal fantasy, models meandered around a dimly-lit room where attendees were seated throughout the space. From the darkness emerged look after look of pure fantasy—for which Risso is well-known. From Napoleonic hats and arty prints on stiff fabrics to capes and a big skirt that resembled puffy cardboard trim, it was a series of increasingly distorted and high-volume looks that mirrored the drama of the live piano tunes. The wearable garments were inspired by uniform dressing, from boyish shorts to slip dresses. The collection firmly cemented a new era for statement hats and drove home the power of accessories. Artful, exaggerated sailor-esque caps proved that the weirdness in fashion is still alive and well. No detail was missed—contrasting lapels, flared mermaid hems on floral dresses, and crumbled florals with dramatic necklines and hems dominated the looks. The models sported strappy sandals, and the co-ed collection included men with big hair and oversized aviators. 

Day 2

BOSS

BOSS hung up the corporate suit to head out-of-office with their new collection. It was all about relaxed silhouettes, breaking the conventional parameters of corporate attire. Staged at the Palazzo del Senato in Milan and presented under the theme “Out of Office”, the runway looks deconstructed a more formal dress code to create a clocked-out approach to an elevated lifestyle—allowing for a more balanced outlook on life. The courtyard of the palazzo was an oasis of calm: a landscape of relief in a city defined by its hustle and bustle. Alongside three-button suits, BOSS let loose deconstructed silk coats with shawl lapels, casual shirting with single pockets and concealed button pouches and tailored shorts that dipped below the knee grace the runway. For women, there were trench coats, blazers, dresses and skirts that prioritised free movement with dramatic draping—ideal for the free-spirited frolicking. The shift in theme is certainly a reset for the brand, and its debut was undoubtedly a hit. 

Roberto Cavalli

In the House’s first show since its founder passed away, Fausto Puglisi paid homage with seven iconic pieces from the archives. In true glamazonian style, these included three asymmetrical zebra dresses from fall 2000, a black leather and chiffon siren gown from fall 2003, and three feathered gowns from fall 2004– all sported by the original models. The new SS25 collection was inspired by Pugisi’s hometown, Messina, mixed with his love for all things drama, of course. The collection began with a series of white looks inspired by Messina’s houses, rope detailing evoking its seaside location. These were clothes to pack for holidays, with skin-baring cutouts, and short hems or high slits, often in pre-rumpled fabrics that won’t look worse for wear as temperatures rise. Then we witnessed a series of photo prints of electric sunsets and crashing waves—they graced slip dresses and pyjama sets all the way up to a goddess dress with a built-in cape. And the culmination of the collection was a trio of mermaid dresses that redeemed that oft-maligned red carpet silhouette; where so many special occasion dresses are uptight and stiff, these were stretchy. 

Etro

It was prints galore at Marco de Vincenzo’s Etro show in collaboration with Wolford. The creative director is hitting his stride at the brand, taming its exuberant textile legacy with tailoring. It was a captivating fusion of Etro's renowned prints and Wolford's iconic garment craftsmanship. The collection included bodysuits, jumpsuits, dresses, and more, showcasing Etro's signature paisley motifs on Wolford's fitted fabrics. It was particularly striking on the runway, where the pieces complement darker-toned looks, seamlessly integrating with Etro's bohemian style. The collection draws inspiration from the theme of discovery and embarks on a voyage where chance encounters become decisive.
 

Feature image: Raindrop Media

Also read: The hottest moments from the New York Fashion Week 2024

Also read: Unforgettable moments from Paris Haute Couture Week 2024