All the highlights from India Couture Week 2024

India Couture Week 2024 kicked off in New Delhi yesterday, and with 14 shows over eight days, there’s a lot to unpack. From Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta Couture, to Tarun Tahiliani, and Falguni Shane Peacock, the best of Indian couture will be hitting the runway. As we gear up for a jam-packed month of international showcases, closer to home we have some of the most renowned designers presenting unparalleled artistry. Each collection blends traditional craftsmanship with contemporary elegance, offering a stunning array of rich textiles, intricate embroidery, and avant-garde silhouettes that reflect the country's diverse cultural heritage and modern sensibilities. 

Take a look at some of the hottest moments for India Couture Week 2024. 

ASAL & MARD by Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla

The iconic duo, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla led the inaugural show with their labels Asal and Mard, blending traditional textiles and embroideries with modern designs. The ‘Asal Bride’ celebrated heritage with a touch of modern elegance, while the ‘Regal Groom of Mard’ showcased dramatic embroideries and bold borders. Lehengas, heroed in red, gold, green, and pearl, were adorned with Gota and Zardozi work, illustrating all the regal drama of a traditional Indian wedding. And we cannot complain about showstoppers, Wamiqa Gabbi and Taha Shah Badussha who simply left us dazzled. 

G K Chudiwala’s opulent fine jewellery complemented the signature sartorial styles while the haveli-inspired backdrop and ‘disco mujra’ tunes offered the perfect setting. The show had it all—glamour, original music, dance, and of course, the wow factor that is synonymous with the designers. The collection married the traditional elements with a new perspective delving deep into our rich archives to pay tribute to the impeccable craftsmanship and time-honoured heritage of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla's designs.

Roseroom by Isha Jajodia

On day two, Isha Jajoodia’s Roseroom presented ‘Art of Eternity,’ a collection reflecting a love story using lace and meticulously crafted fabrics. A blend of heritage design and empowered femininity, each piece drew inspiration from French architectural grandeur. Delicate lace patterns and luxurious fabrics evoked the days of the monarchy, while botanical motifs added a modern fairy tale touch. Excessive feminine colours and silhouettes were enhanced with accessories such as bows, masks, and pearls. The models sported sleek hairstyles and minimal dewy make-up with bling from jewellery partner Diacolor.

Every ensemble was adorned with intricate embroidery, beadwork, and appliqué, showcasing the fine craftsmanship. The colour palette was a symphony of white, black, ivory, and gold, with capes and corsets stealing the show. Jacqueline Fernandes turned showstopper for the designer, donning a black corseted gown with a sweetheart neckline, paired with an elegant netted cape. 

Suneet Varma

Suneet Varma captivated the audience with “Nazm,” a breathtaking display that pays homage to India’s intricate vintage beauty. Pairing old-world elegance with contemporary charm, the collection fused together tradition and modernity with exquisite hand-embroidered appliqué work on luxurious fabrics like soft metallic tissue, pastel organza, and fluid chiffons.

Varma blends rich Indian heritage and Bollywood nostalgia with a contemporary aesthetic. The glitz and glamour evoke the grandeur of the silver screen, enhancing the current maximalist trend in fashion and couture—a true celebration of Indian couture.

Siddartha Tytler 

Inspired by Caligula, Siddartha Tytler’s couture collection, Caligula’s Feast, features sensual, opulent ensembles crafted in jewel tones such as ruby, emerald, and royal blue, accented with gold and gunmetal. The collection used crystals, sequins, rhinestones, appliqué, and fur that added a sense of grandeur to traditional and contemporary creations. Unconventional blouse and skirt shapes added a distinct touch of grace, while the symphony of lehengas, bandhgalas, sherwanis, kurtas, sarees, anarkalis, gowns, dresses, and corsets featured just the right amount of drama. The collection straddles the line between avant-garde and wearable with a colour palette that transitioned from shades of black to stunning hues of beige, green, maroon, orange, and blue. Geometric designs, floral motifs, and patterns were prevalent throughout the collection. Malaika Arora and Rahul Khanna turned showstoppers, strutting the ramp in dark, fashion-forward ensembles. 

Kunal Rawal

Kunal Rawal’s collection, Sehra merges positive omens and traditions of Indian weddings with modern luxury. Combining weaves crafted from across the country, the runway featured a symbiosis of silk, brocades, bandhani, dhup chao threadwork, and bold micro motifs reflecting the brand’s androgynous ethos. Each garment reimagined centuries-old rituals and traditions within the label’s signature aesthetic. The gender-fluid ethos shone, as Rawal introduced traditional weaves with a new twist into men’s occasion wear.

The collection reimagined classic techniques and traditions for menswear, featuring luxurious silks, brocades, and intricate craftwork originally invented for women. Anaita Shroff Adajania walked the ramp in menswear, while Bollywood heartthrob Aditya Roy Kapur closed the show. The collection included modern cropped jackets, bundis, a deconstructed sherwani, and an exciting line of bandhgalas, playing with hues like subtle blues and silvers to vibrant shades like hot pink and red.

Dolly J

Dolly J’s La Vie En Rose collection unfolded like a fairy tale, blending timeless elegance with contemporary craftsmanship. Inspired by jewel tones, the intricate feminine embroideries and floral motifs transported us to a world of eternal beauty. Shimmering fabrics like iridescent tissues, tulle, chiffons, and silk organzas defined each silhouette, blending lightness and structured femininity. Each piece was an ode to timeless dressing, embodying luminous and eternal beauty.

Sonakshi Sinha closed the show in a pale pink off-shoulder gown with floor-sweeping netted sleeves, adorned in tulle and crystals. Other silhouettes featured sculpted bodices with flowing skirts, making a case for Victorian-era elegance. The delicate floral accents and blushing hues were complimented by structured corseted bodices. 
 
JJ Valaya

JJ Valaya’s Muraqqa collection was a regal bridal dream, presenting a fusion of rich textiles, fine crafts, and exquisite detailing. Drawing inspiration from Ottoman intricacies, Persian carpets, and Mughal inlays, it featured custom woven silks and lush velvets. The silhouettes included lehengas, saris, evening jackets, sherwanis, and Nehru jackets, each showcasing unique embroidery techniques and prints reflecting Valaya’s regal yet nomadic style and art deco influences. The showcase combined past and present whilst honouring the beauty of Islamic art from Isfahan, Istanbul, and Delhi.

Valaya captures the essence of the traditional muraqqa, a term that historically refers to a patchwork manuscript that compiles various artistic elements. Like these manuscripts, the collection pieced together the rich aesthetic heritage of the three cities. The use of traditional red paired with heavy embroidery builds on the designer’s signature style, while the scattered use of black and white hues adds a contemporary touch to the line. The models walked a carpeted ramp in shades of gold and red, adorned in fine jewels from Isvari. 

Amit Aggarwal

Amit Aggarwal broke the mould with his latest collection– Antevorta. Named after the Greek goddess of the future, the collection explored the profound connection between time and the universe, emphasizing that nothing exists outside of its influence. Reflecting the boundless and eternal nature of time, it was inspired by the different aspects of it– philosophy, science, religion, mythology, and math. Each section was designed as one philosophy around time, and its cyclic nature was a prominent theme across all garments.

Aggarwal believes that the past, present, and future continue into an eternal loop, and he further played on this by employing a circular model of fashion for a handful of garments. By using pre-owned Banarasi sarees, the atelier gave them a new lease of life. The new techniques essentially helped repurpose them, thereby creating a new form of the sarees. Metallic hues, over-the-top headpieces, and a balance of structured and flowing silhouettes made a strong case for futuristic couture. The designer’s signature silhouettes blended structural movement with experimental textiles and techniques, elevating the state of Indian couture by taking it beyond bridalwear. 

Rahul Mishra

True to his signature, Rahul Mishra’s collection ‘Nargis’ captured the essence of intricate craftsmanship while relying on floral motifs. The designs seemed to juxtapose traditional Indian elements with modern aesthetics, creating pieces that were timeless yet contemporary. Drawing deeply from Mishra’s connection with nature, each garment featured meticulous embroidery and thoughtful detailing, reflecting a deep connection to nature and culture. Inspired by a Mughal garden, the motifs featured peacocks, pomegranate flowers, peonies, and even a lively fish pond under the sun.

It took over eight months and more than 1,200 embroidery artisans in various villages across the country to modernize hundreds of ancient, traditional hand-embroidery techniques. Lisa Ray opened the show in a gold and ivory gown with a fitted floral bodice and a flowing skirt paired with a tulle single-shoulder drape. Models walked the ramp in soft yet vibrant attire adorned with zari threadwork, bugle beads, kundan, various kinds of rhinestone crystals, glass beads, freshwater pearls, and sequins. 

Jayanti Reddy

Jayanti Reddy's collection was inspired by the rich cultural heritage of Hyderabad and the days of the Nawabs and the Nizam. Featuring heritage textiles in conversation with antique motifs, it took us back to India's regal past. ‘Evocative Nawabi Canvas’ comprised approximately 40 looks where traditional embroideries stole the show, inspired by the lavish lifestyles of the royals. From capes, corsets, and jackets for women to bandhgalas, sherwanis, and kurtas for men, the couturier reinvented traditional textiles with a contemporary touch.

Styles of the bygone era amalgamated seamlessly with modern-day silhouettes to redefine Indian weddingwear. With luxurious and dexterous handwork in the spotlight, slow fashion was the focus. Aditi Rao Hydari turned showstopper for the label in a sequin-embroidered long-sleeved peplum blouse paired with a matching pleated sharara. 

Gaurav Gupta Couture

Gaurav Gupta’s much-awaited collection, “Arunodaya,” signified the early dawn, a time of day symbolizing hope, renewal, and infinite possibilities. The captivating phenomenon where the first light of day breaks the darkness served as a major source of inspiration for the couturier. The collection went beyond his signature style to feature intricate embroideries combining Indian Zardozi techniques with surreal lines, structures, and colourful embroidery. With hues like white, ivory pearl, comet blue, petal pink, mauve, slate, sand, bordeaux, and lava– the colour palette mirrored an early morning sky. In a sea of opulent heavy lehengas, sari gowns, and draped saris, meticulous craftsmanship and innovation took centre stage.

Futuristic elements shone, from metallic breastplates to reflective embroidery. Khushi Kapoor closed the show in a sand-hued fitted mermaid lehenga with an off-shoulder blouse and a shoulder cape– all dripping in Zardozi embroidery, crystals and pearls. Vedang Raina accompanied her in a long black velvet sherwani jacket featuring intricate, reflective embroidery.
 

Rimzim Dadu

Rimzim Dadu’s ‘Stucco’ emerged as a wonderland for textures, drawing inspiration from the classical elegance of the Renaissance era. The collection captured the essence of history as reimagined through a contemporary lens. The beauty of imperfection took centre stage, with each nuance telling a story of artisanal craftsmanship. Dadu’s genius for material innovation and fabric manipulation was the highlight on the runway. The pieces featured signature wire cording techniques, infused with exquisite beadwork and embroidery, and occasionally speckled with sequins and crystals, almost invoking dramatic architectural motifs reminiscent of the Baroque era.

The crisp lineup included fringed and mini-dresses, barely-there blouses, cocktail lehengas, hooded tops, and metallic waistcoats with sharara pants, creating a sultry mood. Sobhita Dhulipala closed the show in a white fringed skirt and bandeau blouse with 3D motifs.

Tarun Tahiliani

Tarun Tahiliani’s showcase of his new collection was so nice, he did it twice! Due to overcrowding, the exact same show was staged again for those who missed out the first time around. Blending heritage with modern comfort, the clothing has a soft, ethereal aura. Featuring reimagined traditional techniques like kashidakar, mukaish, and chikankari, ‘Otherworldly’ walked the fine line between tradition and modernity with embroidered motifs on sheer fabrics. Replete with intricate embroidery and exquisite beadwork, the lineup featured over 100 looks that walked to the beats of a live Sufi band.

Tahiliani’s signature use of crafts fused with crystals and 3-D appliqué work was reminiscent of the ‘India Modern’ sensibility that the designer is known for. Traditional embroideries and ornamentation rested on a canvas of contemporary cuts and layering. Concept saris, sleek lehengas with mermaid skirts, corset tops, and sharply tailored cholis stood out. All the drama was elevated with the on-theme hair and makeup, by Aveda and MAC Cosmetics. Motifs inspired by Delhi’s minarets and Pichwai art traditions also found their way onto the pieces. The menswear certainly stole the show– sherwanis, bandhgalas, and kurtas were paired with matching churidars, trousers, and even a couple of dhotis. 

Falguni Shane Peacock

The India Couture Week grand finale by Falguni Shane Peacock was unapologetically dominated by all things bling and sequins. This glimmer was strengthened by a capsule of handwoven saris that shone the brightest. Titled ‘Rang Mahal’ the collection celebrated the vivid hues, diverse cultural elements, and exquisite craftsmanship that define our country’s heritage. The collection was divided into segments, featuring womenswear and menswear with lehenga sets, sherwanis, jacket-style outerwear, draped gowns, and ornate kurtas. With their collaboration with Swadesh, traditional elements were married with contemporary designs. Drawing from the grandeur of palaces, each ensemble was meticulously crafted by master artisans and skilled weavers.

We saw luxurious silks, rich velvets, and intricate embroideries, paired with symbols like parrots, peacocks, and palaces. The elegance stood elevated with elaborate yet ornate jewellery from Tanishq. The designer duo seemed to be working dominantly with lush kanjeevarams, Banarasi brocades and chikankari work. Vicky Kaushal and Rashmika Mandanna closed the show in ivory and gold hues. 

Feature image credit: Roseroom by Isha Jajodia

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