This Indian designer is inspired by Chettinad and the Chettiar connect with Southeast Asia

At the third edition of the Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival, showcasing a spectacular mix of the region’s history, cuisine, music, and culture, Indian designer Anavila unveiled her eponymous brand's festive ‘Payanam’ collection. The traditional courtyard of the stunning Chidambara Vilas, a century-old Chettiar home now converted into a heritage hotel, came alive as it turned runway for the occasion, offering the perfect backdrop to the proceedings.

The inspiration behind the design

“[At last year's Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival] I was blown away. I was blown away [by] the work in the mansions, with each visit, each conversation, and each interaction that I wanted to bring it out as a collection," Anavila said. 

Drawn from the rich history of Chettinad and the interactions of the Chettiar community with other trading communities from Southeast Asia, the standalone show contained pieces that amalgamated the region's traditional patterns and motifs with the vibrancy of modern India.

Enumerating a few of the things that influenced her about the region that she wanted to include in the collection, Anavila said, "I'll begin with the obvious. The first one is, of course, the tiles—the geometry of everything. Then we went on to geometry within geometry. Geometry layered over florals. Then are the checks—the Chettinad checks, the Madras checks."

Masterfully blending the design motifs of Chettinad—the local Athangudi tiles, inspired by the intricate patterns of Minton tiles—with the florals found in the roof carvings of the opulent Chettiar mansions. Madras checks, too, featured boldly and frequently with soft glints of silver and gold, although they remained devoid of the extensive borders that typically accompany the pattern on heavier pieces.  

Textiles as canvas

The fabrics were lavish yet subdued, their hand-woven textures and unconventional layering creating a play between light and shade. Linen, zari, and spun silk, woven with a skilful complexity, were used with a maturity that served as a more classic and subtle ode to ‘festive’. The opulent palette, with its mix of metallics and neutrals, evoked a sense of understated luxury.

The designer’s reverence for traditional artistry and craftsmanship shone through in the embroidery and appliqué work on the pieces. In a nod to Chettiar travellers of the past, the silhouettes are striking with the lehengas and saris draped in the style of Malay skirts, fabrics wrapped around bodices, and ancient Tamilian sari pleats. The high slits in the kurtas are prompted by the community’s exchange with Vietnam, formerly an important trading centre for the Chettiars and the source of their lacquer.

This collection, ‘Payanam’, then, is Anavila paying homage to the rich history of Chettinad and the cultural trajectory of its inhabitants as reimagined by the designer in its present avatar of modern elegance.  

All images: Anavila

Also read: Indian artists and brands inspired by the timeless elegance of Jaipur