Remembering Rohit Bal, as India mourns the loss of this legendary designer

The late 1980s in India whispered of change, a sartorial awakening. While the timeless grace of sarees and salwar kameez held sway, a bold new generation of designers emerged, their collections ablaze with vibrant hues and daring silhouettes. They danced on the edge of tradition, weaving in threads of Western influence. Power dressing emerged in leaps, with women embracing sharp shoulders and tailored suits, a symphony of strength and femininity. The world's catwalks beckoned, and India answered with puffed sleeves, audacious prints, and high-waisted trousers, a lexicon of style rewritten.

But the nation was yet to witness the revolution that Kashmir-born designer Rohit Bal would ignite. His journey began with early steps, co-founding an export house with his brother, Rajiv, in the heart of Delhi. Here, amidst fabrics and threads, he honed his craft, a maestro in the making. Four years later, the world would know his name. Rohit Bal, the label, was born. His debut collection was a revelation, a masterful fusion of intricate embroidery, opulent embellishments, and a modern sensibility that paid homage to India's richness.  The roses bloomed, the peacock danced, and nature's artistry manifested in every fold and drape.

Soon, flagship stores blossomed across the nation—Mumbai, Bangalore, Kolkata—each a shrine to his work. Bal ventured into jewellery, a defiant ode to the grandeur he believed Indian women deserved, a rebellion against the more minimalist tides of the 90s.  With "Balance by Rohit Bal,” he democratised his art, offering his signature magic in prêt—this encouraged many other Indian couturiers to create ready-to-wear labels. He championed the weavers and the artisans much before it was on trend, collaborating with organisations like Khadi Gram Udyog, his love for Indian textiles remaining untouched through it all.  Even the iconic game show "Kaun Banega Crorepati" bore the mark of his genius, his costumes adding a touch of elegance to the stage.

As international fashion publications like Harper's Bazaar set foot on Indian soil, Rohit Bal stood tall, a force majeure. The FDCI founding member’s affair with florals was legendary, reimagined with each passing season. Bold digital prints intertwined with delicate hand embroidery, his lehengas and anarkalis canvases for his painterly vision. Chanderi, the gossamer fabric, flowed like liquid moonlight in his hands, its sheerness an invitation to layer, to embellish, to create magic.  He sculpted silhouettes, a master of drape and cut, his shararas and bandhgalas told of his innovative spirit.

His last show at Lakmé Fashion Week 2024 was a celebration, a dance of joy, and a brave display of what he will always be remembered for—his signature smile that was a beacon of the life force that coursed through him. Even as he battled a relentless heart illness, his spirit remained undefeated. Today, as the sun sets on his extraordinary journey, the world of fashion mourns. Rohit Bal, the legend, the artist, the visionary, has taken his final bow. But his legacy, woven in threads of passion, will illuminate Indian fashion forever. He leaves behind a void that can never be filled, a silence that echoes with the brilliance of his creations.