Chanel’s Cruise 24/25 collection redefines beachwear for the modern woman and her summer sojourns

The former Artistic Director of Chanel, Virginie Viard’s last collection for the French fashion house was an ode to the evocative spirit of Marseille—the portside haven of Southern France. Inspired by the city’s vigour, the Cruise 24/25 collection was an invitation to summer revelry presented through the ultimate holiday wardrobe. “Marseille is a city that puts me in touch with my emotions. I tried to capture its power of attraction, its breath of fresh air, and to convey the energy that reigns there. And you couldn’t ask for a better backdrop to a runway show than the Cité radieuse,” she mentions in her show notes.

The show was held at the MAMO, Centre d’art de la Cité radieuse in Marseille—the pulsating heart of the Mediterranean demonstrating the crossroads of contemporary cultures. “The sun, architecture, music, and dance: Marseille also has a very strong sense of freedom. I was inspired by the codes of lifestyle, of everyday life and by all the things that invite movement. The sea and the wind made me want to play with wetsuits,” adds Viard.

On the runway, designs resonated with the perfect seaside escape in the form of diving hoods featuring press studs—soon to become a signature detail of the house—that adorned the jacket of the aniseed-green skirt suit, or on the collars of the sixties-inspired dresses. The Cruise collection further explored deep sea adventure with embroideries including little fish in love, fishing nets, shells and shellfish punctuate dresses, suit jackets, waistcoats, faille blouses, T-shirts, and little vest tops.

Grid-motifs of the surrounding architecture, silvery reflections of the sun on the water, and undulating lines and shapes reminiscent of the laidback days of summer spent by the pool were imagined through neoprene-like jerseys, tweeds, sequinned jackets, long dresses, tunics, and embroidered pockets. The silhouettes were envisioned keeping maritime moments in mind, from summer activities to soirées in Bermuda shorts, tweed cycling shorts, oversized jackets, flounced skirts and floral embroidered sheath dresses. In addition to hoods and press studs, the collection offered modern iterations like sweatshirts in fish-printed chiffon versions.

The swimwear highlighted a summery mood with bloomers, briefs, and side-opening dresses, waffle fabric skirts, petticoats and bodices in ivory ladder lace, and patchworks of broderie anglaise.

In addition to the eclectic mix of clothes, Viard brought together art and culture to celebrate the port city. Photographer Jamie Hawkesworth immersed himself in the streets of Marseille and captured its essence through spontaneous photographs and portraits. The series of images starring model Loli Bahia were nods to the seaside and scuba diving. In a film directed by Ladj Ly, with choreography imagined by (LA) HORDE, dancers of the Ballet National de Marseille, and dancer and friend of the house, Marion Barbeau explored the landmarks of the Phocaean City, from the Vieux Port to the Cité radieuse.

Further, Chanel went on air with Radio CHANEL, a special programme broadcast on the day of the show and hosted by house ambassador Caroline de Maigret, journalist-producer Géraldine Sarratia, as well as music curator Pedro Winter. This initiative brought together artists and personalities from Marseille along with ambassadors and friends of the house for an engaging dialogue about creation.

All images: The brand and Getty Images 

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