Exploring Dries Van Noten's milestones, inspiration, and body of work
As the Belgian designer stepped down from his role as creative director at his eponymous brand, here's looking at what made him a legend.
Dries Van Noten hung up his hat as the creative director of his brand earlier this year, leaving the fashion world with a heavy heart. Even though we won’t be seeing a new collection from him anytime soon, he has left everybody with a bright wardrobe of memories.
Van Noten started his fashion career as a part of Antwerp Six, a group of designers who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts between 1980-81 under Linda Loppa. This group took Paris by storm when they entered the fashion scene, displaying unique cuts, colours, and prints, setting themselves apart from the trends at that time. Van Noten’s pieces were a true testament to his travels and fascination with different cultures. His signature style incorporated bold colours, unique prints, and luxurious fabrics tied together in a symphony that can be called nothing short of art, and this reflected on the runways as well.
Making a case for women empowerment
Van Noten’s shows gave viewers an insight into his creativity and inspiration, and an experience to remember. The invitations for his most recent Autumn/Winter 2024 collection contained a lock of hair, symbolising a woman trying to reinvent herself by cutting her own bangs. Though his respect and support for women's empowerment is not recent. Back in 1996, when Van Noten launched his Spring/Summer womenswear collection, his runway showcased real women with little to no modelling experience walking the runway. His casting prioritised reality over age, height, or appearance. He did not want to portray the notion of an ideal woman or body type but rather show that every woman is beautiful in her own skin.
Championing the cause of artisans
Dries Van Noten also had an intimate affair with India beyond just inspiration. It's a deep collaboration that's been enriching his designs for over two decades. Since the 1980s, he's fostered close relationships with Indian artisans, particularly skilled embroiderers in Kolkata. These partnerships weren't just business transactions; they were a cornerstone of his creative process. Van Noten's collections frequently showcased stunning block prints, intricate ikat weaving, and delicate sequin embroidery—all brought to life by the expertise of his Indian collaborators. He champions their techniques, not for mere appropriation, but for the unique beauty and heritage they add to his garments.
Apart from fashion, Noten is extremely passionate about horticulture and is known to frequent garden tours with his fellow Antwerp Six member Ann Demeulemeester, in addition to having his own garden. This passion bleeds through in the clothes he designed as well, showcasing bright florals, prints, and colours in all their glory. The best example of this would be his 2023 Spring/Summer collection. The show started out with models in muted colours to display the excellent craftsmanship involved in making the garments. Viewers could see a blend of various fabrics and styles paired together to flaunt the everlasting creativity of the designer.
Adopting sustainability at every step
Dries Van Noten immensely valued wearability. His vision was to translate his collections from the models to the masses. This goal tied in very well with his vow to sustainability. Going against the grain, his label approached fashion in a different way than the competitors, displaying a smaller number of seasonal collections and rejecting the concept of pre-collections. Reducing the number of collections per year can result in a lower carbon footprint. Another nod to sustainability is the timelessness of his designs. Noten is famous for creating garments that can be appreciated and worn for years to come. All of this shows that sustainability is not just a trend, but a lifestyle for him and his brand.
Dries Van Noten departed the fashion world with a colourful suitcase of souvenirs but we can confidently say that his brand is here to stay forever.
Feature image credits: Getty Images
