This Kuwaiti-Indian philanthropist comfortably weaves the influences of both the cultures into his work
Tahir Sultan's wearable and culinary art is one born out of a feeling and an inherent attraction for evocative creations.
When I walked into Makaan, a concept store designed by fashion designer and chef Tahir Sultan in Jaipur, a brooding vibe welcomed me. But once I climbed down the flight of stairs to the store’s basement and entered what seemed almost like a secret dungeon of treasures, I was awestruck by the offerings—antique brass sculptures, Naga panels, hand-thrown crockery, bespoke candles, and embroidered cushions. But the ones that stood out were the 350-year-old huge earthen clay pots. “They were used on the trade routes.They look beautiful in both hotel and landscape projects,” informs Sultan.
Makaan was born out of a feeling, says Sultan. “There was something inside of me that kept pushing me to open a store. I soon realised that depending on walk-ins was not the correct business model. I started supplying key pieces to interior decorators, and Makaan became a store where people looking to decorate their homes came to find unique pieces,” he adds.The designer says his collection at Makaan is sourced from India and the Far East. “The whole idea was to take tribal and vintage furniture, and artefacts, and make them cool. A lot of what we sell is almost impossible to find,” says Sultan.
The half-Kuwaiti-half-Indian philanthropist of wearable and culinary art says evocative pieces attract him. “They invoke a beauty that does not fall within the confines of what one would describe as conventional or normal,” he explains. Sultan adds that he looks for beauty where others would not even see it. “I had a client walk into Makaan andaskwhyIhadmetalrustedsewagepipesondisplay,he didn’t realise they were one of my favourite installations in my store,” he shares.The collection at Makaan reflects his deep respect for his heritage while embracing the avant- garde.What sets Sultan apart is his ability to merge traditional Middle Eastern elements with contemporary global trends. Sultan launched his eponymous label in 2008, quickly gaining recognition for his distinctive approach to design. His collections are known for their meticulous craftsmanship, innovative use of materials, and a signature style that combines opulence with modernity. Sultan’s designs often feature bold silhouettes, intricate embroidery, andaplayoftexturesthatreflecthisdualculturalinfluences. But Sultan says he does not try to balance anything.“My inherent sense of style/design is influenced by the past and the present, the beautiful, the ugly, and the banal.”
Born into a culturally rich family in Kuwait, Sultan says his early exposure to various forms of art—from the intricate designs of Islamic architecture to the vibrant hues of traditional Middle Eastern attire—played a crucial role in shaping his aesthetic sensibilities. His interest in art took him to Florence where he studied Renaissance art history, photography,interior design,and modern art history.Sultan then went on to study fashion design at Central Saint Martins. “This decision saw me move back to India and work in the fashion industry for two years. It was at the time Sabyasachi was starting out and India was an entirely different place,”says Sultan who had interned withAlexander McQueen and John Galliano—two opportunities that created the foundation for his future work.
Sultan has been a global citizen, and the world is his oyster.The designer-chef says his visit to Maasai Mara in Africa impacted him a lot and so did working with Gond artists in Madhya Pradesh, and observing glass blowers in Venice. Asked about the influence of diverse culture on his upbringing, Sultan says, “being from two countries allowed for an added cultural, social, and gastronomical richness which I am privileged to have been exposed to. I think who I am is a sum total of two culture’s collective history.” Sultan moved to Jaipur in the middle of the pandemic, and made it his home. “It is the most fun and vibrant city in India right now. It’s the Marrakesh of the East with a melting pot of bohemian, creative people who are immersed in different fields making it super interesting,” says Sultan who has been visiting the Pink City since 1998.
Describing himself as “a fun-loving maverick who wears many proverbial creative hats”, Sultan says he loves reading, dancing till dawn, working out like a fiend, and working for exceptionally long hours.Sultan’s multifaceted interests extend to the culinary realm, and he loves hosting dinners. Well, his love for food was more than evident when I enquired about his growing up years. “On one of our sojourns as a child, I remember having the best baked potato my brother and I ever tasted in our lives, and whose memory is forever etched as our own international benchmark,” recalls Sultan.The other things that he remembers from his childhood are the fresh fish on the beaches of Komodo and the large pizza slices in NewYork.“As a kid I couldn’t get over the size of a New York slice, as an adult Ican’t get over how much gluten and wheat is in it!” laughs Sultan.
The culinary artist says his food business stems from the exchange between Arab and Indian cultures. “Before the discovery of oil, a lot of Arabs lived in Bombay,” Sultan begins his history lessons.“They brought with them an entire vocabulary of food, using spices, which were introduced to them by Bedouin traders and seafaring dhow captains. The spices came from the Levant, from Persia, and from India, and these combined with local ingredients, like meat and fish, built up a repertoire of what is today known as the Gulf cuisine.”
Sultan’s work—be it in the realm of fashion or culinary world—is a celebration of cultural heritage and modern creativity.Forthisyearalone,hehasplentyofplans.“My 2024 goals are to open a cafe above Makaan, grow my interiors business, start a website, and find a way to spend at least six months a year in another country,” he smiles.
Lead Image Credit: Kewal Chholak
This story originally appeared in the June-July 2024 print edition of Harper's Bazaar India.
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