Discover the world of perfume bottle artistry

What do an unconventional and bold interior designer, an underperforming architecture student, and a celebrated art director and magazine editor have in common? Seemingly nothing. And yet, their epochal work has probably graced your vanity at some point.

French designer Hervé Van Der Straeten’s furniture is known to be bold and so it is only fitting that the perfume bottle he created for Dior’s J’adore has become iconic. The signature tear drop shape and the stunning gold rings on the neck—Van Der Straeten’s design has patronage even before the first spritz. Pierre Dinand abandoned his architecture course (he wasn’t very good at it anyway, by his own admission) and stumbled onto perfume bottle designing entirely by accident. He went on to create Opium’s bottle for YSL, a perfume bottle that has consistently enraptured both fragrance and art enthusiasts. Fabien Baron’s oeuvre in art and editorial spaces is inspirational for sure, but his bottle design—a grenade—for Viktor & Rolf perfume Flowerbomb deserves a more rousing mention in this credit roll. The shape was both genius and controversial; it caused so much debate that it was pulled off shelves in some European airports. The world of perfume bottle artistry isn’t hung up on labels, evidently, allowing artists and designers across mediums and categories into its hallowed fold.

The process of designing a perfume is considered reverential, with the ‘nose’ spending months or even years pouring over the formulation and the notes. This sort of veneration isn’t accorded to the artistry involved in the creation of the perfume bottle, a shame really. The process is equally extensive, often taking just as long to create as the fragrance itself. The artist is entrusted with bringing together form, functionality and, of course, flair. On shelves where every bottle shimmers, shines, and jostles for the consumer’s attention, this task of drawing the customer in is Herculean.

American perfume bottle designer Marc Rosen has won several accolades for his work in the fragrance and beauty packaging industry. He calls the perfume bottle, “the silent salesman”. In present times, the role of the bottle is significant. “Today, consumers are moving towards niche brands. Fragrances that are not from fashion designers or cosmetic companies are gaining traction, making the design of the bottle even more important from a selling point of view.” Rosen offers a glimpse into the designing of fragrance packaging. He says, “There are many moving parts to creating a perfume bottle, the ergonomics taking precedence over artistry at the designing stage. We take into account several factors—the demography, the marketing elements, and the competition—before designing the bottle. The proportion of the bottle, whether glass can even be blown for intricate designs, creating a harmonious user experience, all of these elements come into play in bottle design.”

Manan Gandhi, founder of contemporary fragrance brand Bombay Perfumery underscores Rosen’s emphasis on the engineering of the bottle. “Making the bottle safe for use over an extended period of time is paramount. It’s also important to design the bottle and include artworks that keep the ideal clientele in mind. ‘How will this perfume look in the closet or vanity of my buyer?’—is a question you must answer before finalising the bottle design.” As with artistry of any other kind, inspiration for a perfume bottle can come from anywhere. It is non- linear with shapes and angles of bottles inspired by architecture, texture, design, and even vintage jewellery. Rosen says, “Indian jewellery has influenced the design of many a perfume bottle and I love the detailing in it. I live in New York so walking around Manhattan and seeing old buildings with carvings, certain spaces with interesting designs always inspire me.”

The packaging has to weave an imaginative tale, offering a glimpse into the personality of the fragrance, the hero ingredients, and possibly take the user on a journey. Floral notes that evoke flights of fancy to lush aromatic fields, musky smells that invite you into a boudoir, the bottle is the cover customers will judge the book by. Luxury perfumery Memo Paris’ bottles transport you to a destination. Each of the bottles from this luxury label is a nod to an evocative universe, peppered with smells and elements of nature. Shankey Bhattacharya, Manager (Project, Merchandising and Training) says, “The art and elements on Memo Paris bottles are inspired by the specific destinations and stories that each fragrance represents. Memo Paris expresses itself through illustration, visually stunning packaging that complements the fragrance and invites the consumer on a sensorial journey.”  In India, perfumes have been an intrinsic part of beauty rituals. Mentioned in ancient texts and enjoyed by royalty, fragrances were revered and the vessels to store them were embellished. During the Mughal period, attar bottles would be made of gold and silver, showcasing the craftsmanship of the time, and ornamented with rubies and emeralds.

Perfume bottles have never been the wallflower of the vanity closet. A grand floral flourish, an awe-inspiring shape, a gossamer ribbon around the neck, the artistry of perfume bottles demands the spotlight. It’s time for the artistry to shine. 

Lead Image: 1020 Eau de Parfum, Bombay Perfumery

All inages: Courtesy the brands

This piece originally appeared in the January-February 2025 print edition of Harper's Bazaar India. 

 

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