The A-Z of haircare: Part Two

Looking for some healthy hair habits? Having covered the A-J in part one, we move on to alphabets K-Z and offers a host more of tips for great hair days.

Read on!

K is for keratin

Found naturally in hair, this form of protein has long been used to strengthen and condition. The new 90-day regime, Virtue Flourish, combines two types of keratin to also tackle hair loss, clearing product or pollution build-up and strengthening the skin’s moisture barrier.

L is for LED

Now commonly used in haircare—red light stimulating blood flow to promote hair growth and blue light can reduce scalp inflammation. For an at-home treatment, Protouch's LED Hair Growth Therapy Comb harnesses LED alongside conditioning treatments; alternatively, Reliefto's Professional Laser Hair Growth System helmet emits near-infrared gamma rays to roots for stronger locks.  

M is for mousse

In contrast to previous iterations that left hair feeling dry and stiff, new generation mousses maintain hold while also helping the condition of your hair. A spray-to-mousse formula, Kérastase Discipline Fluidissime Anti-Frizz Spray achieves that rare combination of sleek finish, structural hold and natural feel. OUAI Air Dry Foam's Mousse volumises and provides soft, long-lasting hold.

N is for natural texture

Growing up as a mixed-race child, I never had a sense of what I was going to look like as I got older. Would I develop a dusting of freckles inherited from my white Irish mother, or almond-shaped eyes from my Black Somali father? My appearance ended up being a blend of both, a constellation of European and African physical features that I soon learnt how best to accentuate. My hair, however, remained mysterious to me: I had neither my mum’s auburn waves nor my dad’s Afro texture. The squealing, infant joy of splashing about in the bath was inevitably undercut by the discomfort of having my hair washed. I would sit miserably in the water while my mother struggled to pass a comb through my matted locks. Well-meaning, she treated my hair as she would her own, blow-drying it and brushing it out into a halo of unmanageable frizz. That was what my hair would always look like. Or so I thought. It was by luck that I discovered, at the age of 12, that I had curly hair. One day, in the summer holidays, I rushed out, wet-haired, into the garden to enjoy the morning sun. Under the heat of its rays, my hair began springing up into bouncing, uniform ringlets So, this was what had been hiding for all these years? Besides a brief stint of succumbing to the adolescent peer pressure of straightening it, I have air-dried my hair ever since. Nowadays, my approach to hair is still a muddle of trial and error because, in my experience, salons don’t always know how to look after corkscrew coils. I am frequently met with bemusement by hairdressers asking my advice on how best to cut my hair. At-home trims were a last resort for many during lockdown, but my sister was cutting my hair before the pandemic. I rely on the counsel of my mixed-race friends: they are the ones who add me to curly-hair advice groups and teach me about ‘scrunching’ (holding handfuls of post-shower hair at the scalp to encourage curl definition). Most of all, they have shown me that my hair is something to cherish, not fight against—a little patience and a dollop of leave-in conditioner go a long way. 

O is for overnight masks

A hair mask can be a miraculous thing, and a nocturnal equivalent does all the hard work while you sleep and won’t stain your pillow, though we still suggest wrapping hair to aid absorption.

P is for perfumes

Misting scent over your hair is an appealing idea, but the high concentration of alcohol in fragrance could leave it dry. A favourite, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle now comes in a fine hair mist; or try Kérastase’s Fresh Affair, a dry shampoo with a neroli scent.

Q is for quitting the bottle

Businesses such as Sadhev are making green choices easier. With a large range of eco-friendly beauty staples, it will deliver, collect your empties, and replenish your order. 

R is for revive and refresh 

Dry shampoo is a must in the beauty arsenal. Aveda ’s version works first in the regular way (soaking up oil), but also has a powder-removal system that keeps strands from looking powdery or stiff; while Batiste’s latest dry shampoo works overnight to purify hair while you sleep.

S is for specific supplementation 

"What defines the diameter and strength of hair is the protein within our blood stream," says trichologist Ricardo Vila Nova, who points out that we’re eating less meat than we used to. Supplements containing biotin, vitamin B12, folic acid and iron, if levels are shown to be low, are often helpful for hair. Personalisation is key if you’re experiencing thinning, breakage or a widening of your parting: A Hair DNA Scan screens samples of hair for vitamin or mineral deficiencies (among other investigations). 

T is for transplants

More women are opting for hair transplants as innovations in technology and technique have made them a viable option. However, those in-the-know are opting for the subtle non-surgical nanoprocedure, which allows for complete or partial hair restoration. It is suitable for all hair types, unlike traditional transplants, which tend to be less successful on Afro hair due to the complexity of grafting tightly curled hair roots. Using DNA-based technology, ethically sourced donor hair is matched to yours, right down to the texture, colour, thickness, and degree of curl. The ‘nanos’ (tiny, imperceptible rings) are then attached to the roots of individual strands of your hair—no needles, no pain, no surgery. "This process enables an overall increase in density across the scalp, regardless of the extent of hair loss," says Amy Meshkati, the hair specialist and clinic founder. "The results are immediate and guaranteed for 10 years." While donor strands won’t grow, they can be styled and coloured as normal. 

U is for unplugged stylers 

It’s not just portability that sets cordless tools apart. Dyson’s Corrale features copper flexing plates that gather as much hair as possible, minimising styling time and reducing breakage; GHD’s Unplugged employs a lithium-ion battery, making it as efficient as a plug-in version; while the BaByliss Cordless Hot Brush runs for 40 minutes of styling time.

V is for vinyl shine 

"We’re seeing an influx of people wanting luxury treatments after so long without," says Paul Percival, the co-founder and owner of Percy & Reed salons. Opt for one of three looks inspired by the British music scene: the 7inch, the 33inch, and the remix for mirror-like shine.

W is for wraps 

From hair scarves to bonnets and turbans, hair wraps have long been an integral part of caring for curly hair. "Silk wraps in particular help to protect the hair from breakage and damage, and reduce the friction that causes split ends and frizz," says the hair artist Charlotte Mensah. Try Meesho's Hair Bonnet to keep hair protected. The focus on hair wraps goes beyond sleep, too. The runway rejoiced in height and volume with the session hairstylist Syd Hayes suggesting we tap into Seventies glamour this season. "We saw the ultimate supermodel hair at Zimmerman," he says. "Big hair with an amazing rough textured edge: a blend of Brigitte Bardot and Cindy Crawford in the famous Pepsi ads from the Nineties." Seek out volume-boosting products, such as Moroccan Oil Root Boost, or exaggerate natural movement with Kérastase's Densifique Sérum Jeunesse.

Y is for yoga for hair 

This isn't as faddy as it sounds. Pulling those ‘facial yoga’ practices up to your scalp and using massage and manipulation to dismantle tension helps to promote blood flow, encouraging healthy hair.

Z is for zhuzhing .

The ‘ zhuzh’ was as impossible to achieve as it was to spell, until we discovered Aveda's Phomollient Styling Foam, the dry-foam solution that works on wet or dry hair to create textured, tousled oomph. 

This piece originally appeared in the Dec 2021/Jan 2022 print edition of Harper's Bazaar UK.