#SkinSchool: The serums that promise to be ‘Botox in a bottle’ explained

‘Botox is a bottle’ is the type of claim that might elicit an eyebrow raise (where physically possible) from the skintellectuals out there. While the social media-trending title given to line-smoothing face serums certainly have their place, they might not take the place of muscle-freezing injectables, such as Botox.

“I think the use of injectable treatments extends to more than what you see with just wrinkles and lines on the face,” says Dr Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist for SkinCeuticals. “However, I do think these serums can be used as an adjunct to injectable treatments,” the star of The Bad Skin Clinic and founder of Klira adds, explaining to Bazaar what they can—and can’t—do for the skin.

What exactly are serums know as 'Botox in a bottle'?

But first, some context. Within the world of skincare, many products harness the benefits of what are known to be ‘cell communicating ingredients’, such as retinol, niacinamide, and peptides. Unlike exfoliating or hydrating ingredients, these actives have unique benefits including the ability to signal to our cells how to behave. In the case of ‘Botox in a bottle’-type serums, peptides tend to star, given their ability to stop muscles contracting.

“Peptides are a key ingredient to look out for as they essentially act as messengers within the skin to serve different functions,” Dr Craythorne explains. In particular, neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides are known to block messages between nerves and muscles to prevent the muscle contraction resulting in expression lines.

But are they really as effective as needlework?

How do ‘Botox in a bottle’ serums compare to injectable wrinkle-relaxers?

“Peptides work much more superficially on the skin compared to injectable treatments, and the effects they have on the skin are not as profound,” notes Dr Craythorne – although such serums can go some way, according to studies, “to help reduce contraction lines and reveal glass-like skin”.

It’s important to note that not all are created equal, she adds. “It’s the synergistic combination and strength of the peptides” that will help determine the effect a serum will ultimately have on the skin. Her top tip? “Before you look at the name on a bottle, do your research.” Or let us do it for you…

Below, find the ones that we rate whether used alone or in conjunction with aesthetic injectables.

The best ‘Botox in a bottle’ skin serums:

SkinCeuticals P-TIOX

Positioned as a ‘wrinkle-modulating peptide serum’, SkinCeuticals’ advanced anti-ageing elixir combines the peptides hexapeptide and dipeptide which—according to Dr Craythorne —“synergistically work better together to deliver results”.

Such results, the brand has demonstrated, include a visible reduction in nine types of contraction lines (from crow’s feet to nasolabial folds) as well as improve texture overall.

P-Tiox also contains PHA, a gentle exfoliating acid, and niacinamide—another cell communicating ingredient that offers myriad benefits, from brightening pigmentationto controlling sebum production.

The Ordinary 10% Argireline Solution

Argireline is a patented concentration of acetyl hexapeptide-3 (sometimes listed as acetyl hexapeptide-8)—likely the most popular peptide known to minimise the look of expression lines. One of the original ‘Botox in a bottle’ serums—and certainly one of the most accessible—The Ordinary’s 10% Argireline Solution works especially well on the first signs of expression lines around the eyes and on the forehead.

Given that it’s a singular-focussed formula, it’s best layered with additional serums boasting other skincare properties, such as an antioxidant serum for protecting skin from sun damage and a hyaluronic acid serum for hydration.

Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm and Lift Serum

Estée Lauder serums are lauded for very good reason. While the iconic Advanced Night Repair will replenish and restore skin, the Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm and Lift Serum will tone and smooth it.

Cocktailing line-targeting peptides acetyl hexapeptide-8 and hexapeptide-9, the powerful treatment will bring back the bounce to a slackening face.

Emma Lewisham Supernatural Vitale Face Elixir

Emma Lewisham’s Supernatural Vitale Face Elixir packs plant-sourced neuropeptides which inhibit muscle contractions, in turn visibly relaxing the expression of lines and wrinkles, while simultaneously helping to enhance collagen production.

Hailed as a natural ‘Botox in a bottle’, it’s pregnancy-safe and suitable for sensitive skin.

Skin Design London The Face Tight Serum

The star of Skin Design London’s active-packed line-up, Face Tight has been coined “the Botox filler”.

Containing a powerful blend of peptides including muscle relaxant Inyline, as well as Argassential—shown to heighten collagen synthesis for a smoother complexion, it plumps out fine lines and firms lax skin as its name suggests.

Medik8 Liquid Peptides

One of our favourite advanced skincare brands, Medik8 uses a combination of drone delivery and encapsulated peptides in its formulas. This best-selling serum smooths skin with a complex of peptides also known as Matrixyl® 3000—a celebrated ingredient that’s proven to reduce wrinkle depth.

Supported by hydrating hyaluronic acid and carnosine (an antioxidant with healing capabilities), it’s a complete solution for more youthful looking skin.

StriVectin Peptide Plump Line Filling Bounce Serum

If customer feedback is anything to go by, the confident claim that this formula can soften deep wrinkles (as supported by expert grading results) isn't hyperbole.

Starring StriVectin’s proprietary Alpha-3 Peptide (which targets skin’s natural collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid—the main biomolecules involved in wrinkle formulation—to visibly plump and smooth), it does exactly what it says on the tin.

Lead Image Credits: Pexels

This article originally appeared on harpersbazaar.com/uk in July 2024.

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