#SkinSchool: How mushrooms in skincare really work
Experts shed light on the 'shroom boom' and what it really does for the complexion.
A rich source of vitamin D, protein, and antioxidants, it’s clear that adding a portobello salad or porcini ravioli to your menu will benefit the body. But in recent years, future-facing beauty and fashion companies have been looking to mushrooms for more than just their delicious properties. New Zealand-based company Mushroom Material developed a biodegradable alternative to Styrofoam packaging using the roots of mushrooms known as the mycelium. In the UK, Magical Mushroom uses this innovative technology to create packaging for various brands including Wildsmith, Ffern, and Lush, while fashion house Stella McCartney debuted its mushroom leather Frayme Mylo bag for spring/summer 2022.
But nothing beats the “shroom boom” in skincare, as searches for “mushroom benefits” saw an uptick of 120 per cent in the past year, according to Google Trends. With more brands hopping onto the fungi train, Bazaar went straight to the experts to find out why it’s worth incorporating mushrooms into your routine.
What are the benefits of mushrooms for skin?
Similar to most ingredient trends, the mushroom movement isn’t a completely new phenomenon. “Mushrooms have long been used in Asia for their ability to improve health, maintain vitality, preserve a youthful appearance, and to counter the adverse health effects of chronic stress,” says Dr. Andrew Weil, a US-based medical doctor and practitioner of integrative medicine. His collaboration with Origins, which began in 2005, arguably brought mushroom skincare to the Western mainstream. According to him, studies on unique mushroom species show promising anti-inflammatory effects and the topical use of these mushrooms may help protect skin from skin damage caused by environmental aggressors.
Consultant dermatologist Dr Catherine Borysiewicz at Dr. David Jack Belgravia adds: “The study of mushrooms and their constituent ‘myochemicals’ has revealed an interesting natural source of agents that can provide the basis for new pharmaceutical, cosmetic and nutritional products. Increasingly, now we have cosmeceutical products that are cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids that offer deeper activity in our skin.”
Skincare formulas that incorporate mushrooms offer enhanced moisturising, soothing and brightening effects while softening the appearance of skin damage and ageing.
Which mushrooms are found in skincare?
From shiitake, to turkey tail, the mushroom universe is rich in diversity. When it comes to formulating his Mega Mushroom range, Dr. Weil looked to cordyceps, reishi, and fermented chaga for these benefits:
Cordyceps: Widely used in Traditional Chinese Medicine and Traditional Tibetan Medicine to ease signs of fatigue in the complexion.
Reishi: Features anti-irritant properties that help soothe and calm the skin and has been used in TCM for immune boosting benefits. The complex featured in Origins Treatment Lotion has high potency of reishi to bring a sigh of relief to sensitive, irritated skin and minimise redness.
Fermented Chaga: The ferments function as pure powerhouses that help break down ingredients into tiny particles so that they are more bioavailable to skin. Fermented chaga comforts irritated skin and takes down inflammation.
Ingredients kojic acid (found in shiitake) and beta glucans (found in reishi, turkey tail, shiitake, and maitake) are also widely used in skincare. The former helps with brightening hyperpigmentation and acne scarring while the latter acts as not only a humectant to keep skin plush and hydrated, but also bolsters the skin barrier.
In addition to these, “mushroom polysaccharides are very effective moisturising agents,” offers Dr. Borysiewicz, who notes that the tremella polysaccharide, in particular, has better moisture retention than 0.02 per cent hyaluronic acid according to this study. She also highlights that mushrooms are also potent in antioxidants which are key for protecting skin against environmental damage.
Can mushrooms help with stressed out skin?
Adaptogens—commonly used in Ayurveda and TCM practices—have been a major talking point in the wellness realm with certain herbs and mushrooms (including cordyceps, chaga, and reishi) said to have adaptogenic properties that allow the body to better deal with stress. Studies on adaptogens are promising. But while mushrooms themselves are rich in nutritional benefits (and any food that’s great for your health, is good for your skin), Dr. Borysiewicz is wary of topical skincare products that claim to have adaptogen qualities as there isn't sufficient evidence to support the claims.
“Adaptogens are used in herbal medicine to promote ‘homeostasis’ or increased resistance to stress. Whether this is a true effect has been challenged by the European Medicines Agency and at present it is not a term that’s accepted in pharmacological or clinical practice in the EU,” she explains.
“It’s important to state that at times of stress a number of inflammatory dermatological conditions such as acne, eczema or psoriasis can be exacerbated. This is felt to be through activation of your immune system,” she continues, suggesting that meditation and yoga are better ways to deal with stress than simply applying an adaptogen-laced moisturiser and hoping for the best.
Who would benefit most from mushroom-infused skincare?
Given the soothing, brightening, and hydrating prowess of mushrooms, anyone prone to flare-ups, irritation, hyperpigmentation, and dryness will benefit. Most skin types will play well with mushroom-derived actives, but it’s important to look at your skincare formula as a whole to make sure there’s nothing else in the INCI list that will aggravate your complexion.
The best mushroom-infused skincare to try now:
Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Mega Mushroom Relief & Resilience Soothing Treatment Lotion
For unhappy complexions that are prone to inflammation, go back to basics with a gentle cleanser, this calming lotion and a no-frills moisturiser or SPF. This formula is rich in barrier-boosting and soothing mushrooms, alongside glycerin for hydration and low amounts of salicylic acid to keep blemishes and redness at arms length.
Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate
This daily serum makes light work of protecting the skin from environmental damage, restoring the skin barrier, and helps the complexion to get the most out of your skincare products. The proprietary Ultimune Complex is a cocktail of gingko, shiso and rosewater which acts as a shield against everyday stressors while reishi helps fortify a compromised barrier.
Kora Organics Milky Mushroom Gentle Cleansing Oil
This one by Kora delivers powerful results thanks to its potent blend of active ingredients including silver ear mushroom, babassu oil, apple seed oil, and sunflower seed oil. The sunflower seed oil, babassu oil, and apple seed oil leaves the skin clean and soft, and the silver ear mushroom makes sure to keep the skin soft and increasing the skin barrier.
This article first appeared in Harper's Bazaar Uk in April 2023
