#SkinSchool: Are SPF oils as safe as creams?

We asked the experts how sun-protection oils stack up against other SPF formulations.

Jul 20, 2024 | by Jessica Harris

We all know that suncream is an everyday essential rather than a seasonal fling but when summer finally arrives our thoughts inevitably turn to sun protection. Studies have found that 76 per cent of people would spend time in the sun on a sunny day and 40 per cent of Brits reported a least one case of sunburn a year making SPF more important than ever. From lotions to balms and advanced face SPFs, the choice for sun defence can be overwhelming and while tanning oils have historically had a bad rep for their of lack protection, they are becoming a popular choice for those looking for a hydrating and fuss-free SPF. We asked the experts how effective SPF oils are and if they've improved since their '70s heyday.

What are SPF oils?
Ironically, sun oils were originally used in the 1970s to encourage a deep tan and to, quite literally, bake the skin throughout the summer months. Crisco and Baby Oil were the popular choices to help (women in particular) achieve the deepest tan a complexion would permit, and SPF was considered a swear word. Fast forward 40 years and tanning oils have been replaced by SPF oils, cementing their place as a respectable contender in the choice for sun protection. “In recent years, there has been a noticeable increase in the popularity of sunscreen oils,” says Izabela Pawlitka, facialist and skin specialist at the Dr David Jack Clinic. “They are a photoprotective topical product for the skin that helps protect against sunburn and prevent cancer. It is usually a chemical SPF that is added to an oil-based product.”

How do SPF oils compare to suncream?
If you've ever had the displeasure of kneading a heavy sun cream into your limbs until your arms ache then the idea of a lightweight oil sounds rather appealing and you wouldn't be alone. “A lot of people prefer the lighter feel of an SPF oil,” says Dr Eirini Merika, consultant dermatologist at Montrose London. “They can feel more hydrating as they sit on the skin for longer and contain UV filters suspended in an oil base, which can give a glossier finish compared to the matte or semi-matte finish of traditional sunscreens. Both cream and oil typically contain similar UV filters (such as avobenzone, octocrylene, and zinc oxide), but the base and additional ingredients differ. Oils might include hydrating and nourishing ingredients like vitamin E, jojoba oil, or argan oil, which can benefit dry skin types.”

Although it's good news for those with a parched complexion, for those with oilier skin, Dr Merika warns that you're more likely to experience spot breakouts making it a no-no for acne-prone skin types, especially if the formulation includes comedogenic (pore clogging) ingredients such as coconut oil, cocoa butter or beeswax. “Oils may linger on the skin longer due to their occlusive nature, which can make them more difficult to wash off. This can be beneficial for prolonged sun protection but might require a more thorough cleansing routine to avoid clogged pores,” Dr Merika says.

Are SPF oils as effective?
Having glossy, sun-kissed limbs may sound like a summer well spent but Dr Merika warns that while they are just as effective as other SPF formulas, they may need applying more often. “Oils actually attract and focus UV rays onto the skin therefore they need to be used with caution as you are likely to sunburn quicker,” she says. “Due to the fluid nature of oils, reapply every two hours, especially after swimming or sweating. Some oils are marketed as water-repellent, but it's still best to reapply regularly.”

Correctly applying SPF oils may seem like a no-brainer but the experts are quick to note that allowing the product to absorb for 20 minutes before sun exposure is key. This is because the active ingredients which are absorbed into the skin convert UV rays into heat energy which is then released from the skin surface.

How do you use SPF oils?
Getting the most out of your SPF oil will largely depend on your skin type and the sun-drenched activities you'll be participating in to avoid feeling greasy or uncomfortable. “Dry oils absorb quickly and leave a less greasy residue,” Dr Merika begins. “This makes them suitable for daily use and under makeup whereas wet oils provide a more intense moisturising effect, which might be better for very dry skin or after-sun care. Oils can be deceptively thin, so ensure you use enough (about a teaspoon for the face).” As the sun can quickly leave our skin crispier than a pack of Lays, looking for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, squalane, or glycerin, can provide some much-needed hydration. If you'll be basking in the city sun however, Dr Merika suggests an SPF oil that contains active ingredients such as vitamin C or niacinamide which offer extra protection against environmental damage.

While we know that SPF is typically the last stage of our skincare routine, adding an oil into the mix can be confusing. “If you use sunscreen oil it will still be the last step in your skincare routine as any other SPF before you apply any make-up,” Pawlitka says. “Your daily routine in the morning would be cleanse, antioxidant serum, moisturiser and then SPF followed by your make-up or cleanse, antioxidant serum, hybrid SPF moisturiser and then make-up.”

One last take-away is making sure that you thoroughly cleanse your face and body when sun exposure is over. “Oil is harder to remove so make sure you double cleanse your face in the evening and using lots of soap or shower gel for the body,” Pawlitka says.

3 of the best SPF oils

Paula's Choice Healthy Glow Invisible Sunscreen Oil SPF 30, ₹2,425