Peptides, the ‘it’ ingredient, is a worthy addition to your vanity—here’s why

Let’s admit this—there are days when we wake up to taut, dehydrated and unhappy skin despite the indulgent skincare routine that we religiously follow. From a shift in the climate to changes in the composition of your skin, many key factors can influence the present-day condition, and thereby requirements, of your skin. Perhaps, that is the reason why your regular skincare routine isn’t sufficient. Interestingly, you could also inculpate certain ingredients that are either not cutting it for your skin or have become way too accustomed to your skin to show further results. Regardless, it’s a sign to add a new ingredient to your skincare routine that acts as a catalyst in helping you achieve the skin you aspire for. Enter peptides, a buzzworthy ingredient that is universally flattering. The naturally occurring molecules in the body can actually do wonders for your skin when applied topically. Wondering how? Scroll down to discover the many benefits of peptides.

Firstly, what are peptides?

“Peptides are the building blocks of protein known as amino acids. These amino acids make proteins needed by the skin,” says Dr Niketa Sonavane, celebrity dermatologist and founder, Ambrosia Aesthetics. Elucidating that in detail, Dr Karishma Kagodu, dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon says, “Peptides are smaller proteins, typically composed of 2-50 amino acids, which, as we know, are the building blocks of proteins. Peptides have become prevalent as beauty ingredients for many cosmetic purposes, such as for anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and muscle-building properties.” Also known as polypeptides, peptides are of two kinds—dipeptides and tripeptides. “While the former is formed by linkage of two amino acids by one peptide bond, the latter is formed by linkage of three amino acids by two peptide bonds,” explains Dr Meghna Gupta, a Delhi-based dermatologist. Speaking of types, you might come across ‘copper peptides’ as well, however, they are significantly different. “Copper peptides are different as they work as an antioxidant, promote collagen and elastin production, and soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.  They also have the ability to potentially repair your skin and even out your skin tone. Whereas Polypeptide is known to reduce puffiness and redness. It boosts skin's resilience and is identical to skin’s collagen,” explains Dr Gupta. According to Kagodu, the difference between copper peptides and polypeptides is made based on their makeup and performance, but both are anti-inflammatory.

What are the benefits of peptides?

From anti-ageing to wrinkle reduction and plumper skin to augmented youthfulness, the beauty industry has touted peptides as the ‘do it all’ for many common skin concerns. “When applied topically, peptides penetrate through the skin barrier and aid in your body’s natural production of collagen and elastin. More specifically, collagen is made of three polypeptide chains, so adding peptides can stimulate your skin to make collagen giving it a firmer and youthful appearance,” says Dr Sonavane, as she explains the link of peptides with collagen as well as briefly highlights the former’s benefits. Kagodu reveals that as of 2017, more than 60 peptide drugs have been approved by the US Food & Drug Administration owing to their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and antithrombotic (anti-clotting) benefits. And, as far as anti-ageing is considered, Sonavane compares peptides with retinol, an ingredient which is also famous for mature skin, “retinol is often hailed as the holy grail ingredient when it comes to collagen synthesis in the skin, but often at the expense of skin dryness, inflammation, and sun sensitivity. Peptides are generally more gentle and moisturising than retinol and therefore a better choice for those with a more sensitive skin type,” she mentions.

“Recent research found that some peptides have an active role in diminishing the ageing process, reducing inflammation, and destroying microbes,” she adds. Think of peptides as that hydrating ingredient that also endows the skin with a firmer, more youthful and rejuvenated look. It strengthens the barrier, boosts nourishment, accelerates collagen production (since it penetrates deeper than collagen) and just like hyaluronic acid and collagen, peptides too, can be paired with a slew of other actives and ingredients. So, even if you’re not scouting for an essentially anti-ageing ingredient, peptides still crop up as a winner. Additionally, peptides are also efficacious calming agents after skin treatments and procedures. 

So, how do you include peptides in your skincare routine? 

Today, a wide range of products host peptides with a promise to deliver healthier skin from within. From serums and moisturisers to toners and lotions, your skin can bask in the benefits of this protein through various products. “Incorporating them in serums and as moisturisers is a good way for at-home care. Else, trans-dermal infusion (an in-office treatment) can be done by a dermatologist,” suggests Dr Gupta. According to Kagodu, “As far as effectiveness is concerned, using a peptide-based serum and moisturiser is more effective than a cleanser because it is rinsed off. Peptide works wonderfully with vitamin C, niacinamide, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid.” Remember, it’s best to incorporate the ingredient in both, your AM and PM routine, to reap its benefits to the fullest. Lastly, it’s paramount to note that despite its plumping and wrinkle-diminishing properties, it cannot replace the quintessential botox and filler treatments. “Peptides aren’t quite the same as botox, which relaxes your expression muscles to prevent frown, forehead and crows feet wrinkles or dermal fillers which contain hyaluronic acid and fill facial volume loss. Peptides, however, are a good option if you want to prevent wrinkles or extend the effects of your botox treatment,” concludes Sonavane.