A deep dive into the next big thing in perfume: Water-based fragrances

As a seasoned beauty editor, I’m rather embarrassed to admit that I only realised ‘eau de parfum’ translates to ‘perfume water’ while researching this story. Adding to my chagrin: said realisation occurred while I was in France...with Dior’s team of expert noses. To be fair (to me), modern fragrances have mostly been made with alcohol instead of water. But as part of the industry’s effort to become cleaner, perfumers are starting to forgo synthetic ingredients. Thus, a return to the literal eau.

That’s especially great news because the other thing I learned in France is that water-based scents tend to smell more natural and true to their ingredients. My personal proof was testing Dior’s water-based version of its iconic J’Adore—a fresh floral mix of jasmine, magnolia and orange blossom. It did indeed smell incredibly "real", as if I were standing in some sort of citrusy field of flowers.

In fact, all the water-based blends I’ve since tried, including the ones above, seem to emit the purest form of the notes on their labels. They’re also less likely than alcohol-based scents to dry out your skin or cause an allergic reaction. And that, IMO, is très bon.

HERMETICA PARIS

This perfumery offers more than 20 alcohol- free scents, each more nuanced and complex than the last (case in point: this powdery iris and lily of the valley blend). The brand plants a tree for each bottle sold. 

Eterniris Eau de Parfum, £155 (₹16,000 approx.) for 100ml

DIOR

Making a highly concentrated water-based scent isn’t easy. Dior uses a sophisticated nano-emulsion process to blend its perfume oils with water. 

J’Adore Parfum d’Eau, £126 (₹13,000 approx.) for 100ml

ISSEY MIYAKE

Embark on a luminous scent trail of wanderlust and adventure with this delightfully fresh fragrance, composed of delicate flowers, combined with Rose and Lotus. The Eau de Toilette features a heart of Lily to create a clean, white scent while a base of precious woods adds an earthy warmth to this aquatic floral fragrance. Perfect for both day and night-time wear, this radiant scent will transport your senses to a luscious paradise.

L'Eau d'Issey Eau de Toilette (₹7,273) for 100ml

Giorgio Armani

The new Acqua Di Gio EAU De Parfum is a powerful and crystalline interpretation of the iconic Acqua di Gio signature, blending innovative marine notes for a never-ending freshness. 

Acqua Di Gio EAU De Parfum (₹6,950) for 75ml

Dolce&Gabbana 

Dive into crystalline waters with Dolce&Gabbana’s Light Blue Eau Intense Eau de Parfum. A woody aquatic fragrance for him, the scent wraps you in a refreshing sea-breeze air, invigorating and intoxicating the senses with each wear.

Light Blue Eau Intense Eau de Parfum (₹8,538) for 100ml

This piece originally appeared in the June/July 2023 print edition of Cosmopolitan UK.