What is it about Japan that has these Indian chefs continue to feel inspired?

When you think of Japanese food, what’s the first thing that comes to mind? Sashimi, ramen bowls, or maybe tempura? Well, you’re not alone. Japanese cuisine has long been associated with a handful of iconic dishes for many who enjoy the cuisine. These, along with countless other Japanese dishes, are celebrated for their ability to create rich, harmonious, umami-packed flavours from very simple ingredients like miso, soy, and dashi.

In India, Japanese food has truly come a long way, and the growing number of speciality restaurants can be well and truly credited for this. But only a select few truly honour the authenticity and traditions that define Japanese cuisine. These culinary experts are going beyond the usual crowd-pleasers and are drawing inspiration from Japan’s diverse regions—be it the bustling food markets of Osaka, the snowy landscapes of Sapporo, or the coastal charm of Makkari. 

By embracing traditional techniques, regional ingredients, and the stories behind the dishes, they’re bringing authenticity to the forefront while evolving the cuisine for modern tastes. The result? A vibrant fusion of old and new that continues to captivate and expand Japan’s culinary influence. Three renowned chefs—chef Nooresha Kably of Izumi, chef Mayyur Tiwari of Ukiyo at The Ritz-Carlton Pune, and chef Aditya Moitra of House of Fio—speak to Harper’s Bazaar about the inspiration they seek on recces to Japan, and how they are preserving Japanese heritage while adapting it to modern tastes and the Indian palate.

Chef Nooresha Kably, Head chef & Co-founder, Izumi, Mumbai

For chef Nooresha Kably, authenticity starts with discovery. And discovering smaller towns and cities like Osaka and Otaru, and exploring their unique ingredients is what keeps her going. It was during her travels that she discovered rare ingredients, such as Fukui Salmon, snow crab, and burdock (gobo), the former being the first for a restaurant in India.

Training at the Tokyo Sushi Academy, Kably mastered the art of spotlighting hero ingredients with balanced seasoning. “It’s a philosophy I live by—less is more,” she explains. This principle blends authenticity and innovation and is evident in dishes at Izumi.

It's easier said than done—adapting Japanese cuisine to suit Indian tastes takes a lot of creativity and balance. “We’ve transformed classic Japanese seafood dishes into vegetarian options and added Indian touches to traditional recipes. For example, our Hamachi ponzu features a wasabi jelly with truffle and bird’s eye chilli—a perfect blend of both cultures.”

Her focus on authenticity extends beyond the food to the ambience at Izumi, which captures the minimalist, cosy qualities of traditional Japanese eateries. “There’s a mural inspired by Japan’s countryside, with elements like the rising sun, carnations, and highlands,” she shares. Even the tableware, chopsticks, and sake cups come straight from Japan, creating a truly immersive experience.

Looking ahead, chef Kably is dedicated to keeping traditional techniques, like edomae sushi, alive while embracing modern trends. Her passion for blending authenticity with innovation has redefined Japanese dining in India, setting a new benchmark for the cuisine.

Chef Mayyur Tiwari, Executive Chef at The Ritz-Carlton, Pune (Ukiyo)

For chef Mayyur Tiwari, Japanese cuisine is a journey of continuous improvement, a belief that is guided by the 'Kaizen philosophy'. “Immersing myself in Japanese culture and its emphasis on precision inspires me every day,” he says. His menu at Ukiyo incorporates unique Japanese techniques like 'aburi' (searing) and 'mushi' (steaming), which are then adapted with local influences. Another method known as Katsumi, which is used when cooking vegetables, adds a layer of complexity to otherwise simple dishes.

Of course, balancing authenticity with Indian preferences is no small feat. “The flavours need to be subtle but impactful at the same time,” he says. But he shines through as seen in his baby spinach and lamb chop tobanjan, which retain the essence of Japanese cuisine while catering to local tastes. Simplicity and seasonality are two very important traditions in Japanese culture, and chef Tiwari ensures the menu and the space reflect these. “It’s about creating an environment that feels harmonious and uncluttered,” he notes.

Chef Tiwari is particularly passionate about preserving traditions like Kaiseki Ryori, the cuisine of Buddhist monks, ensuring its presence in his menu to keep its spirit alive. He believes that as India-Japan trade relations strengthen, the future of Japanese cuisine in India looks brighter than ever. “With better access to authentic ingredients and techniques, we aim to pioneer this exciting journey,” he says.

Chef Aditya Moitra, R&D Chef at House of Fio, Delhi

Chef Aditya Moitra describes Japanese cuisine as an ongoing dialogue between tradition and innovation. He draws inspiration from its delicate balance of flavours and respect for seasonal ingredients. “The philosophy of 'shun', or seasonal eating, deeply resonates with me,” he says.

A trip to the village of Makkari in Hokkaido left a lasting impression on Aditya’s culinary approach. A simple bowl of miso soup, made with local miso and dashi, taught him the value of restraint. “It was a masterclass in amplifying natural flavours without overwhelming them.” This lesson continues to shape his work, from the meticulous knife skills used in preparing tuna to the art of salt-curing fish, inspired by traditional Japanese preservation methods.

Chef Moitra’s menu strikes a fine balance between authenticity and accessibility. “Our miso salmon is a perfect example,” he explains. “Marinated in miso for a rich, umami-packed flavour, it resonates with both Japanese purists and Indian diners who appreciate nuanced yet bold tastes.”

The Japanese aesthetic of minimalism also informs his approach to plating and presentation. “It’s about creating a visual harmony that reflects the dish’s simplicity and elegance,” he says. While the landscapes and architecture of Japan may not directly influence his restaurant’s design, they subtly shape the ambience he seeks to create—one of calm and focus.

Moitra is particularly concerned about the potential loss of traditional techniques like making 'dashi' or mastering the precision used in sushi. “To preserve these skills, I practice them daily and share their importance with my team,” he says. His dedication to honouring these methods ensures that guests experience the soul of Japanese cuisine, even in a foreign land.

Looking to the future, Moitra is excited about the growing availability of Japanese ingredients in India, which opens up new possibilities for chefs and diners alike. “My goal is to introduce more people to the depth and authenticity of Japanese cuisine while staying true to its core values,” he says.

All images: Izumi - Taainy Thinks; Ukiyo - Tandem Communication; House of Fio - Quirk Brand Consulting. 

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