The luxury guide to Oslo

On the surface, Oslo can be a somewhat unprepossessing city. Its abundance of brutalist architecture, exemplified by often bleak grey edifices and some rather angry-looking statues, may not be to everybody’s taste. Yet Oslo rewards those with the patience to explore it. A metropolis of startling contrasts, it is alive with an energy all its own; pockets of medieval history, charming egg-yolk-hued 19th-century enclaves and breath-taking vistas of the majestic Oslofjord around which the Norwegian capital sits.

Arriving via the fjord, as many cruise ships do, is still one of the more impressive ways to encounter Oslo for the first time. The city is surrounded by verdant hillsides, which makes for a dramatic sight, and there are 40 small islands dotted around the arc on which the city presides, ideal for exploration by boat.

The Norwegian capital is also rising in the style stakes, as an emerging hub of Scandinavian fashion. Plant yourself outside a konditor for an al fresco coffee and pastry and you will be treated to as much enthralling street style as any Rive Gauche pavement. Luxury bars and restaurants are many and buzzy and you are spoiled for choice with a wide range of transportive museums and galleries, showing everything from Arctic ships to Munch’s Scream.

Here’s our guide to a luxury weekend away in this Nordic city of wonders.

Where to stay

Formerly the headquarters of the city’s electrical company, this Art Deco landmark in the fashionable Frogner neighbourhood is now a five-star luxury hotel named Sommerro, and possibly the hottest spot in town. The vast all-day dining space, Ekspedisjonshallen, has live jazz every night and a rather punchy house martini, which draws in a particularly well-heeled and lively crowd. There is a small cinema, a coffee shop and chic public baths in the basement. In the warmer months, the roof terrace and pool (something of a rarity in Norway) are one of the city’s biggest draws, in large thanks to its Scandi-Japanese fusion restaurant Tak, which has a hugely popular sister restaurant in Stockholm and boasts some seriously impressive views.

The design of Sommerro is glorious, the architecture the work of Andreas Bjercke and Georg Eliassen, the duo behind some of the city’s most famous buildings, and the attention to detail in its transformation into a lavish hotel is astonishing. The rooms are sumptuous and comfortable, with black marble bathrooms and even art-deco emerald-cut toilet seats. A quietly glamorous brown, back and gilt palette pervades throughout, with wrought iron staircases, bold geometric shapes in the lighting, and large-scale murals by Per Krohg ensuring that its historical spirit is brought faithfully to contemporary life.

For a dose of old-school glamour, Grand Hotel Oslo lives up to its name as one of the city's grand dames. A beloved staple, it has operated for 150 years and sits at its historical centre, on Karl Johan street. Though the hotel is drenched in history, nothing here feels like a pastiche. The décor is crisp and elegant and the rooms have a refined, contemporary look. Grand Hotel is a favoured location for afternoon tea or a stylish cocktail, for tourists and locals alike, but a stay here can be a truly glamorous treat.

Where to eat and drink

The city is a brilliant mix of classic heavy hitters and trendy new spots. For a dose of the traditional, you can do no better than Theatercafeen, which sits within the Hotel Continental and, as you may expect, opposite the national theatre. It is a revered hangout for actors and performers from Scandinavia and beyond, and black and white signed photographs of famous patrons line the walls of the entrance. Grab lunch here, and you will find some of the great and good of Norway having business meetings under its vaulted ceiling, surrounded by all its Belle Epoque charm. Grab an excellent white wine and Skagen toast and you won’t be disappointed. For a similar feel, pop into Engebret, Oslo’s oldest restaurant, for some hearty traditional Norwegian fare and another slice of the country’s cultural history (Ibsen was a regular). Their famous open sandwiches are not to be missed.

To really partake of Oslo’s modern luxury gastronomy, you simply must sample Maaemo. Norway’s only three three-Michelin starred restaurant is the most hotly sought-after table in town. Seasonal produce makes up its ever-evolving tasting menu, in seriously chic surroundings. For a more laid-back feel, Hot Shop is the city’s buzziest eatery, with no less impressive gastronomical chops.

The search for an after-hours tipple in the city should take you Oslo’s favourite new hangout, Tiffani (don’t miss their entertaining pub quizzes), the sleek wine cellar at The Three Fifty, or the deservedly lauded brilliance of the very cool bar, Svanen Oslo.

Where to shop

You are spoilt for choice when it comes to shopping in Oslo. One easy hack is to base yourself in Grünerløkka, one of the city’s trendiest neighbourhoods, bursting with chic boutiques and great concept stores. Some standouts are Fransk Bazar for amazingly eclectic interiors and Ensemble, which is a crib sheet of the coolest Scandi brands to know right now. Or, you can hop over to Rathkes Gate and check out F5 Concept Store, which specialises in the finest homegrown Nordic talent in fashion and design.

What to do

Like any chic Scandi city, Oslo is best appreciated with leisurely strolls around its streets, picking up the buzzy atmosphere of various neighbourhoods or taking in the historical sights. A sunny day is best spent in the Vigeland Sculpture Park, exploring some of the more than 200 captivating and unusual pieces by Gustav Vigeland, or ambling around the Akershus Fortress, Olso’s magical medieval castle on the edge of the fjord, whose grounds contain the moving Norwegian Resistance Museum.

Head to the so-called museum peninsula (the best way is by boat) where you can visit the strangely fascinating Folk Museum or the city’s hottest ticket, The Fram Museum, where you can step aboard The Fram itself, the famous ship which took both Amundsen and Nansen to the Arctic and Antarctic. The sartorially curious will love the International Library of Fashion Research – the first in the world – and then there is, of course, the National Museum, and Norway’s answer to the Mona Lisa: Edvard Munch’s The Scream.

The more adventurous may want to indulge in a Scandi specialty and visit an outdoor sauna. When you have worked up enough of a sweat, there’s nothing else for it: a jump in the icy waters of the fjord…if you dare.

This article first appeared in harpersbazaar.com/uk in August 2024. 

Feature Image: DRAZEN_//GETTY IMAGES

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