How exploring Italy in colder months is beyond the usual

Last summer Italy was, let’s be frank, almost loved to death, with congested roads, swamped sights, and sluggish service from overworked staff. Our suggestion? A do-over, but not in summer. “We are huge believers in low-season travel here,” says Andrea Grisdale, the Como-based founder of IC Bellagio. “It’s a totally different experience, and we are actively encouraging it.” No, you will not be forced to pitch a tent. For the first time, a number of hotels that used to shutter as soon as summer ended are pushing back closures. In Lake Como, the classic Villa d’Este is staying open until early January and reopening in March, as is the new Passalacqua. Following suit in Puglia is the wildly pretty Borgo Egnazia. On the Amalfi Coast, Monastero Santa Rosa stayed open into November in 2022 and is considering December in 2023. There will be more. “After a year like this one,” says Elisa Pozzoli, of Essence of Italy, “hotels are changing their mentality. And Venice in January or February is magical. You’re alone, in a ghost city.”

Something else might help ease the travails of overtourism: a handful of new five-star hotels available year-round. Six Senses Rome (GM Francesca Tozzi comes from Capri’s Tiberio Palace) opens in spring in a 15th-century palazzo, a block from the Galleria Doria Pamphilj. In Milan the 73-suite Portrait Milano, a first foray there from the Ferragamo family, has just opened on Corso Venezia, close to the fashion district but not in the thick of it. Casa Baglioni Milano, a 30-room hotel with an interior that nods to Italy’s Modernist dolce vita era, is in the heart of the city’s artsy, “local” Brera district. Both offer a way to sidestep the visitor surge, even during Fashion Week. As for the summer? Grisdale cannot be more emphatic: “We are about to enter a new era. The famous summer tradition is on its way out. No one comes to Italy for a suntan, anyway. And do you know how amazing this country is with few tourists around?”