Yellow gold watches are back in the spotlight and we're all for it

It’s a sign of the times when Rolex comes out with a watch that boasts 322 grams of 18-carat yellow gold for the first time in their sporty Deepsea collection. While this is a clear case of vanity over function (although the watch promises legibility and absolute waterproofness at 12,800 ft below sea level), they aren’t far behind from Omega who has also added a Speedmaster 38 in gold with diamonds, plus Piaget has resurrected their iconic Polo 79 for their 150th anniversary all in yellow gold. As much as I’d like to believe it’s all a coincidence, there is clearly more to the story.

The precious material was a mainstay for the world of horology until stainless steel took over somewhere between the ’70s and ’80s, boasting sturdy staples for your everyday wear. The material change dramatically dropped prices for watches and led to long-lasting creations that housed the finest movements. And while this phenomenon is still very prevalent, the surge of precious metals all over again is undeniable. Earlier this year, Bulgari launched its collection for 2024 titled ‘Time is Gold’, aptly prompting its long-time love affair with gold, and reimagining its most iconic creations in the lustrous metal. “In the quest to capture timelessness, is there any substance that surpasses gold—so precious, mystical, and legendary—in its embodiment of eternal elegance?” Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin asks a rhetorical question. “As an allegory of the sun, gold resonates with timeless splendour and warmth, symbolising both the enduring luminance and the rich legacy of civilisations that have long cherished its radiant allure—an ideal conduit for the horological emotions crafted by the daring Roman Maison.”

Theatrically radiant, the idea that yellow gold is having a moment stretches far beyond the fact that it’s such an enticing material that has captivated audiences for decades on end. One label that has never shied away from dreaming in yellow gold is Cartier. In fact, this year, the brand illustrated not only how the material is worthy of high, fine watch-making, but how it can be reimagined as a polishing marvel through their latest collection Reflection de Cartier. The cuff-style watch hybrid pinnacles at the top of your wrist, reflecting the dial on the opposite opening with its high polish surface. But this is just one of the many examples from the house that has enamoured its customers. Long-time lover of Cartier and Miam Patisserie founder Bani Nanda reflects, “As a little girl, I was attracted to yellow gold. I never wanted faux stonework or silver when I’d buy bracelets or rings in my teenage years. I love the way yellow gold sits on my skin and stands out. The rose gold trend always upset me, and I’m happy to see it die down. I also invest in gold year on year, maybe I am stereotypically Indian. I am still saving for an all-gold watch, and I currently wear a steel and gold dual tone Panthère de Cartier—the watch of my dreams.”

True to form, Nanda makes an important point—investing in gold has been a part of India’s culture since one can remember. As I delved deeper to understand if this mindset cascades borders, I checked in with one of the industry’s favourite women in horology—Laetitia Hirschy, the founder of Kaaviar PR and the co-founder of Watch Femme. She assuringly chimed in, “Yellow gold has always held a cherished place in India’s cultural and jewellery heritage, symbolising prosperity, purity, and timeless elegance. Its resurgence in luxury watches is not just a trend but a natural progression in a market that reveres gold. Recent studies show that India alone accounts for nearly 25 per cent of the world’s gold demand, with a significant portion dedicated to fine jewellery. As demand for luxury watches increases in India, it comes as no surprise that a big portion of that demand is going towards yellow gold watches. It reaffirms their status as both a statement of luxury and a connection to heritage, as well as the perfect accessory to combine with yellow gold jewellery they already have in their wardrobe.”

As my cobwebs convert to clarity—the more I look around, the more I see it. Think Tudor’s latest Black Bay 58 or Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas, or Hublot Classic Fusion Original—all embodying the sunshine metal with utmost reverie, crafting a compelling narrative for those who want to make a statement that is all yellow.

This piece originally appeared in the June-July 2024 print edition of Harper's Bazaar India.

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