The black-tie dress code for women, decoded: our guide to what to wear

lack-tie invites might not arrive very often, but when they do they can present a sartorial challenge. For all its specific rules, this formal dress code is confusing and intimidating in equal measures. What was originally designed as a way of protecting guests from arriving at an event under- or overdressed, has become a complicated social minefield.

Although not the most formal dress code in existence (that title belongs to white tie), black tie still suggests a level of glamour and refinement that goes beyond standard eveningwear. While a tuxedo jacket, designer denim and heels will satisfy many after-dark style scenarios, black tie is a more demanding brief. The British etiquette guide Debrett’s still says that “for most people, this is the most formal dress code they will ever encounter”. The advice for female guests is brief: “Women should wear a full-length evening dress or ball gown with or without long sleeves. Long gloves may be worn with sleeveless dresses.”

In an attempt to define what black tie really requires from your ensemble, we asked stylist Holly White for advice. Known for dressing a slew of rising Hollywood stars from House of the Dragon’s Milly Alcock to Bridgerton’s Charithra Chandran and How To Have Sex star Mia Bruce, she is well versed in navigating the befuddling style dilemmas that come with formal invites—while ensuring that her clients still look chic, contemporary and, most importantly, comfortable. Should you wear black? How short is too short? What styles are occasion-appropriate but still modern? She breaks down the modern-day black-tie rules below.

What is the easiest way to manage a black-tie dress code?

“I tend to use dress codes to gauge the overall feel and energy of the event or party, so try not to feel too spooked by them—they’re there to help. Ultimately, when it comes to my clients, I’m always looking to land on something that makes them feel their best and most confident—and that should be a priority for everyone. Black tie isn’t always as traditional as it once was; it’s become much more creative and people are curating their looks in new and interesting ways that still feel elevated. This also means guests tend to seek out show-stopping outfits that they're more likely to wear again, which is so important from an environmental perspective. The level of formality varies according to the invite, so it’s always worth checking with your host if you’re unsure. Everyone has their own interpretation of what black tie means.”

How do you navigate black-tie invites in a modern way?

“Look for contemporary necklines—a cowl neck, off-the-shoulder, a high-neck (think Saint Laurent, Alaia and Alexander McQueen) and focus on the details; add a sheer opera glove or a modern hair accessory, like a headband or a crystal hair clip."

Do you have to wear black? Does colour matter when it comes to black tie?

“Black isn’t the only option, but if that’s your sartorial safe space, go for it. I recommend sticking to block colours rather than anything too fussy because it allows you to have more fun with the silhouette and accessories, while honouring the dress code.”

What length of dress is acceptable? Does it have to be floor-length?

“Floor-length is preferred, but a mid-length also works. Anything shorter starts to feel more ‘cocktail’ and too relaxed for a black-tie occasion.”

Are there any silhouettes that work best? Is it acceptable to wear very form-fitting shapes?

“Fit is everything, whether form-fitting or oversized. Never wear anything you’ve had to squeeze yourself into. Regardless of how tight or loose your dress is, make sure that it’s tailored to your proportions—it’s the easiest way of bolstering your confidence and looking elegant.”

How can you give your look a red-carpet allure? Are there any styling hacks that instantly elevate an outfit?

“Accessories and confidence. My job as a stylist is essentially about creating confidence as well as curating a look that will stand the test of time on the red carpet. Hair, make-up and a painted nail has more impact than you might think—if you can treat yourself to a professional beauty look, it will pay off. A quick blow-dry will make a huge difference to how you feel.”

What shoes shall I wear? Are heels essential?

“I don’t think there are any hard rules on this. A kitten heel or higher often makes the look more formal, but it’s also important to be able to walk easily and with confidence so choose a heel height that you feel comfortable in. There are so many glamorous flat party shoes that now, so don’t make yourself wear heels if it doesn’t feel natural to you.”

What should I avoid? What constitutes as a black-tie misstep?

“Avoid fabrics that feel casual, for example cotton or wool. Instead look for luxe materials like crepe, silk or chiffon.”

What style of handbag would you recommend?

“A clutch will always elevate a look—it’s an occasionwear classic—but I’d also suggest considering an evening bag with a small handle or delicate chain strap that you can either hold or nonchalantly drape over your shoulder.”

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