Discover the latest high jewellery collections from five iconic brands

The perpetual desire to seek the best in class is the result of a complex interplay of evolutionary imperatives, social dynamics, psychological needs, and cultural influences. In the world of luxury, high jewellery stands as the ultimate expression of opulence, artistry, and exclusivity. It is where the boundaries of creativity are pushed, transforming humble, precious and extremely rare materials into breathtaking works of wearable art. At the centre of each high jewellery creation is the design, often inspired by natural elements, cultural influences, or a reflection of contemporary themes, which may be derived from science, technology, art, or a designer’s vivid imagination. Let’s delve into a selection of recent high jewellery collections to uncover the profound artistry embedded in these exquisite masterpieces.

Louis Vuitton’s latest high jewellery collection—titled Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds—transports us to an epochal time, when savoir-faire became France’s legacy, and innovation its enlightenment. “France in the 19th Century was a phenomenal time of incredible change,” says Francesca Amfitheatrof, the House’s artistic director for watches and jewelry, who conceptualised the collection. This is Amfitheatrof’s sixth and largest high jewellery collection for the Maison. It includes 220 unique masterpiece jewels, and culminates with the Coeur de Paris necklace—a homage to the historic moment in 1889 when a Parisian marvel, which later became a beacon of modernity, was unveiled to the world: the Eiffel Tower.

To bring this incredible vision to life, pink gold rods embrace a grid of baguette settings and diamond-lit arrows, which all lead to the jewel’s centrepiece: a 56.23-carat diamond featuring a rare and distinct, intense pink hue with unusual tones of orange. The unique cut and facet pattern of the diamond with an open culet is reminiscent of the 19th Century. Louis Vuitton considers the natural diamond the most important and rare master stone of the collection.

For over a century, Fabergé has been synonymous with jewelled eggs. Since the company’s resurrection by Gemfields (a leading responsible miner and marketer of coloured gemstones) in 2007, Fabergé has continued to honour its legacy via bespoke works of exceptional jewelled masterpieces. In April 2021, Fabergé collaborated with HBO®’s award-winning television series Game of Thrones to create a one-of-a-kind jewelled dragon egg (for Daenerys Targaryen, played by Emilia Clarke) which sold for $2.2 million (`18 crore approximately). The egg was created to celebrate the show’s 10th anniversary. Following up on the popularity of this bejewelled egg and the show as well, Fabergé has created a high jewellery collection that incorporates design details from the dramatic sets, costumes, characters, and the otherworldly landscape of the Seven Kingdoms of Westeros.

The Fabergé x Game of Thrones white and rose gold diamond transformable ear cuff and choker is an interconnected design, which represents Daenerys’ ability to transform herself and harness her power when needed. Red rubies from Gemfields’ mine in Mozambique represent the element of fire in the jewels, with skeletal lines for the dragon. The collection beautifully blends the royal standard of Fabergé creations with the imaginative world of the modern-day cultural phenomenon of Game of Thrones.

In June, Bvlgari unveiled its new high jewellery collection, titled Aeterna, paying tribute to the Maison’s 140th anniversary. The showstopper was the Serpenti Aeterna necklace. Instead of seeking cut and polished diamonds for the necklace, Bvlgari decided to challenge itself by cutting a 200.00-carat rough diamond to create seven D flawless ultra clear and pure pear diamond drops totalling 140.00 carats, one for each year of the brand’s history. Adding an extra challenge, the drops are embraced in a sinuous three dimensional wave structure in a higher density, harder metal like platinum instead of gold. The necklace is further embellished with 698 baguette diamonds, which seem to move seductively with the flexibility of a snake.

In the rarefied world of high jewellery, Hemmerle stands as a beacon of innovative artistry and uncompromising craftsmanship. Founded in Munich in 1893, this family-run jewellery brand has carved a niche for itself, captivating connoisseurs and collectors with its bold and avant-garde creations. The House eschews convention, opting for unconventional materials like iron and copper, juxtaposed with exquisite gemstones of the highest quality. This daring approach results in pieces that are not just jewellery, but wearable works of art.

“Our creativity is focused on one-of-a-kind creations that are conceived uniquely and designed with no material hierarchies in mind,” explain Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle, the husband-wife duo who currently run the family business. “The Echinacea flower earrings with the distinctive orange petals paired with orange sapphires, was a beautiful project that showcases how each jewel becomes a learning curve as the articulated and individually sculpted petals are engineered to be suspended from the base with uniquely conceived hook mechanisms which we hadn’t encountered before.”

Damiani’s story is that of an Italian family, one that preserves a precious know-how which is intrinsically linked to tradition: to create unique, handcrafted jewels by the master goldsmiths of Valenza.

 

Among the creations designed to celebrate Damiani’s centenary is the extraordinary and striking Margherita Desert Garden, a necklace that pays tribute to the beauty of nature and the enchanting colours of a desert sunrise by employing an incredible collection of rare diamonds, in white and fancy colours. All elements of the necklace seem to gravitate towards an extraordinary drop-cut fancy diamond, displaying an exceptional deep brown yellow hue and weighing over 20 carats. The necklace is skilfully embellished with brown diamonds and emeralds, creating a sumptuous carpet on which daisies made from white diamonds and a central fancy yellow diamond are gracefully laid.

From the timeless elegance of traditional houses to the daring creativity of avant-garde designers, the world of high jewellery continues to captivate and inspire. As tastes shift, one thing remains constant: the allure of exceptional craftsmanship, rare materials, and the transformative power of exquisite jewels. Whether celebrating heritage or pushing the boundaries of design, high jewellery stands as a testament to human creativity and the enduring desire for beauty, making each acquisition a cherished journey into luxury and refinement.

This article first appeared in Harper's Bazaar India, August 2024 print edition. 

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