Remembering Roberto Cavalli's legacy, artistic sensibilities, and influences
The maverick Italian designer’s life mirrored the grandeur of his designs, too.
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In a Harper’s Bazaar interview, Roberto Cavalli described himself as “a typical man” more than a decade ago. He was anything but. Roberto’s design philosophy was a sartorial soirée, an extraordinary celebration of unrestrained sensuality. He died on April 12, at the age of 83.
Born in 1940 in Florence, he was steeped in artistry from his youth. His mother, a seamstress, wove a deep appreciation for textiles and craftsmanship into his being. He further honed his eye when he went to university, where he delved into art history, becoming enthralled by the grandeur of the Renaissance masters. These influences would later bloom into Roberto’s expressive visual language.
Roberto’s artistic sensibilities led him to experiment with printmaking techniques. The 1960s saw him establish a haven for his creativity—a small business where he hand-painted designs onto leather and denim. These unique pieces, imbued with his untamed spirit, captivated the attention of fashion buyers and celebrities. By 1970, Roberto had unveiled his debut collection in Paris, a revolutionary display featuring sand-blasted denim. His work was a defiant roar against the minimalist whispers that dominated the era. His style resonated with a new generation yearning for self-expression and individuality. Icons like Sophia Loren and Brigitte Bardot became early muses, further propelling the designer to international fame.
His designs transcended mere aesthetics; they embodied a confident, empowered femininity that resonated with a world in flux. “Roberto has been a huge inspiration to me, and Indian fashion. He was glam and boho at the same time,” says designer Surily Goel, an avid collector of the late designer’s pieces. “I mean, his more-is-more aesthetic, with everything from sequinned pants to all his beading, feathers, and prints! His work also supported and borrowed from Indian artisans and their techniques,” she adds.
In 2012, Anushka Sharma appeared in Roberto Cavalli pants from his Fall runway collection on the November cover of Bazaar India, reflecting Bollywood’s unapologetic obsession with the designer at the time. “I have been a Cavalli fan for as long as I remember. He was unpredictable and daring!” says costume designer Tanya Ghavri. “I used a gorgeous Cavalli 20s-style dress on Ileana D’Cruz back in the day, and I still have that piece in my wardrobe as a prized possession.” Roberto’s influence was everywhere, his creations were loved by Kareena Kapoor Khan, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, Katrina Kaif, Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Alia Bhatt, and Sonam Kapoor.
Roberto revelled in rich textures, like velvet and brocade, sculpting them into fitting silhouettes that celebrated the female form. His signature zebra and python prints became synonymous with the brand. Bold florals, rendered in unconventional patterns and vibrant hues, were another mainstay. Roberto built a world of his own, which was often more diverse and inclusive than the times. His label helped catapult the careers of many models of colour. Roberto’s vision wasn’t confined to apparel only. He imagined a holistic lifestyle experience, a universe encompassing accessories, fragrances, and homeware. In 2013, Roberto celebrated the opening of the Cavalli boutique in Delhi’s DLF Emporio. Guests enjoyed food from the Cavalli Caffe menu, and beverages from Cavalli wine and Roberto Cavalli vodka.
His life mirrored the grandeur of his designs too. A passionate collector of art and antiques, his homes were a reflection of his eclectic tastes. Bazaar editor Laura Brown described the interiors of Roberto’s 14th-century watchtower as “birdcages housing colourful macaws and a hysterical cockatoo, dozens of crystal balls, walls adorned with classical portraits, a Julian Schnabel plate-painting of his wife, Eva, a cellar overflowing with Cavalli wine and vodka, a tanning machine, and a bedazzled motorbike!”
At 69, at his Florentine casa for the Harper’s Bazaar interview, Roberto contemplated his place in the fashion world. One of his lion cubs interrupted the interview. “Ah, mio amore!” he exclaimed, scooping up the cub in a warm embrace. “Where was I?” he mused while trying, unsuccessfully, to balance the lion on his lap. “Today, I’m very happy about myself, because I realised my dreams. I learned how to understand what people want. With time, fashion has become part of my DNA.” As an integral part of fashion’s DNA, Roberto will be outlived by his creations. He will be remembered every time I put on a pair of printed leather shoes, or catch a leopard print in the wild.
Feature image credits: Getty Images
This article originally appeared in the Harper's Bazaar India, April-May, 2024 print issue.
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