How Polki and Kundan jewellery went from a royal legacy to a bridal must-have

Polki-kundan jewellery has become an essential part of any Indian bride’s wedding trousseau. You may think this was always the case. Yet, historically, polki-kundan jewellery was predominantly linked to select royal and affluent communities. Front and centre were the Rajput royals. Their patronage led to the development of the polki-kundan craft in cities of Rajasthan such as Jaipur and Bikaner. Under the Mughals, artisans blended Persian elements with Hindustani designs. The Marwari and Bania communities, as well as wealthy landowners and merchants from Gujarat and affluent families from Punjab, also showed a preference for polka-kundan jewellery.

The shift of polki-kundan jewellery from a local and community-oriented choice to a popular trend across the country began in 2008 with its prominent portrayal in the Hindi film Jodhaa Akbar (2008). The historic epic showcased elaborate jewellery in its portrayal of Mughal-era royalty. 

Polki-kundan jewellery incorporates three elements in its creation. Polki refers to the diamond slice, meenakari is enamel work, and the kundan technique sets the polki using layers of 24-carat gold foil.

Polki 

Polki is often mistakenly called an uncut diamond. This misunderstanding likely stems from the fact that a polki (diamond) lacks the faceted sparkle found in a conventional diamond. In the modern context, polki is a thin (flat) slice of diamond that is polished. A variant of polki that has grown in popularity is ‘English polki’, which features facets only on one side and is thicker than a traditional polki diamond. 

A polki diamond’s value depends on its quality and treatment. These are sold in three categories: Syndicate, Zimbabwe, and Khilwas. The top-grade material in terms of brilliance and clarity is labelled Syndicate—a phrase from the ’60s and ’70s, which initially referred to material coming from De Beers. Zimbabwe refers to diamonds from the African country and is a medium-range product in terms of colour and brilliance. The lowest grade is called Khilwas.

Like gemstones, polki diamonds are also treated to enhance their appearance. Usually, fillers are inserted in the slices to improve clarity and lustre. The fillings range from 30 percent, 60 per cent to 80 per cent. Khilwas polki is always treated because of high inclusions. Without treatment, Khilwas polki would be unsuitable for jewellery. Large polki pieces in jewellery are almost always ‘Khilwas’. It’s important to note that Syndicate polki also comes in treated and untreated categories, and the prices vary accordingly. For example, the price difference between Khilwas polki with 80 per cent filling and untreated Syndicate polki can be 100 per cent to over 200 per cent! 

Kundan 

Some consider costume jewellery imitating the polki kundan style or glass-set traditional jewellery as ‘kundan’. This is not true. The term ‘kundan’ is about the craftsmanship and not the material. 

The kundan technique of setting precious stones in jewellery was probably created during an archaic period when gems were manually cut and polished without machine help for measurement or calibration. The technique helped set un-calibrated diamonds and gemstones in a manner that gave the illusion of symmetry. 

The kundan process has remained unchanged over centuries. First, skilled artisans use fine strips of gold to create a framework or base. Silver sheets are formed into miniature bowls upon which a diamond slice is carefully placed. As one would fold the edge of a pastry, the corners of the silver bowl are folded inwards, encasing the edges of the diamond polki. Each diamond-silver cell is embedded into the gold framework, and layers of gold foil are painstakingly hammered to seal and secure the setting. 

When assessing a piece of jewellery made using the kundan technique, one must consider the gold used for setting the polki and the hours spent in crafting the piece. Finishing one cell in a large necklace can take up to five to seven days. When a polki is hastily set or lacks sufficient gold leaf, the slices will eventually oxidise and turn grey from the moisture in the air. Thirty to 40 years ago, artisans would spend six to eight months creating a single necklace. Now, they are expected to churn out that same piece, using an identical method, in a few weeks, which is bound to impact the overall quality and durability of the piece. 

Meenakari 

Most polki-kundan jewellery features the champlevé enamelling technique, which involves carving or etching recessed designs into the gold or silver surface, creating intricate depressions, which are filled with powdered enamel (fine glass paste) that is fused by high-temperature firing. To provide a firm base for the gold engraving, the gold template is filled with powdered stone (lac) or wax. You may come across rare antique pieces filled with gold. 

The uniqueness of the colour combinations, the finesse of the enamel work, the creativity of the design enhance value. Jaipur and Bikaner have numerous artisans who do exceptional enamelling (meenakari). The best ones work with top jewellery brands such as The Gem Palace and Umrao Jewels. Others, such as Amrapali and Sunita Shekhawat, have integrated enamel specialists in their ateliers. A special acknowledgement goes to jewellery specialist Sudhir Kasliwal in Jaipur, whose tireless collaboration with artisans has resulted in the design and production of polki-kundan jewellery that upholds the exceptional quality and grandeur reminiscent of royal craftsmanship from bygone eras. 

Like a painting, polki-kundan jewellery also requires restoration. Airtight storage and care is vital to its continued beauty. Its worth lies not in its intrinsic value, but in the quality of craftsmanship and the brand of the artist. Polki and kundan jewellery are more than adornments—they are repositories of history. In today’s world, where modern technology and mass production reign supreme, the continued relevance of these ancient methods is a testament to their enduring appeal

Lead image: Getty Images 

This article first appeared in Harper's Bazaar India October-November 2024, print edition. 

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