Fashion has given us some of the most iconic looks inspired by human anatomy, and here's where it all began

Robert Wun unveiled his 10-year anniversary fall collection titled ‘Time’ last month, and it garnered attention for all the right reasons. The collection delved into the concept of time and its impact on our world, showcasing a breathtaking array of silhouettes, ranging from space-themed gowns with veils to three-piece ensembles with burnt hems. It was definitely a marvel to see the designer take us through these dimensions. What truly stood out though was the blood-red dress, which used an intricate arrangement of bugle beads to create the illusion of flesh. This just goes to show how the human anatomy has inspired some of the most remarkable fashion pieces, but it’s not the only one. 

Remember Zendaya’s iconic ‘metal spine’ dress? Worn during the promotions of her film, Spider-Man: No Way Home, the outfit, designed by Roberto Cavalli, was a clever reference to one of the film’s villains, Dr Octopus. But it was more than that. The outfit’s design also resembles the anatomy of a human body, the spine to be particular. And that is precisely what makes the look so iconic, drawing global media coverage and social media buzz that reached into the millions.

While we love Robert Cavalli’s dress for its standout reference of the human anatomy, there was another iconic look from Schiaparelli, that left a lasting impression. We’re talking about Bella Hadid’s bold ensemble at the Cannes Premiere in 2021. Her striking low-cut Schiaparelli gown featured a gilded brass necklace, adorned with rhinestones, that resembled trompe l’œil lungs.

These creations highlight the allure of anatomical references in fashion. And a major reason for that is the intricate detailing, which gives it that sort of stateliness associated with couture. However, this isn’t the first instance of human anatomy influencing fashion. Like all great innovations, it has a rich history of its own.

In 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli collaborated with her artist friend, Salvador Dalí to create a ‘skeleton dress.’ While the dress itself was a classic black gown, it featured details reminiscent of the human anatomy, including the rib cage, spine, and bone structures. 

Another great example is Alexander McQueen’s 1998 Spring/Summer collection, which remains a standout moment in fashion history. This iconic collection featured a ‘spine corset,’ created in collaboration with Shaun Leane. Drawing inspiration from the memento mori tradition—where skeletons and skulls are incorporated into wearable garments or jewellery to remind the wearer of their mortality—the duo crafted a corset that resembled a spine. It was designed like armour with three black leather buckle-straps, mimicking the appearance of a human spine, with a rib cage in front and an added tail at the back.

It seems today’s creative directors are revisiting archives for inspiration, and the results are truly fascinating. For instance, Thom Browne’s couture show earlier this year. Although the collection featured a pastel palette, dramatic headgear, and striking silhouettes like blazers, it was the high-necked Victorian gown that left us dumbfounded. Adorned with muscle-like embroidery on one side, this gown stood out as a masterful reinterpretation of anatomy in fashion, showcasing Browne’s ingenious approach.

 

In 2011, Iris van Herpen’s collection also featured a skeleton-inspired dress, created in collaboration with Isaie Bloch. This striking piece, resembling a skeletal structure, was designed to fit the human body with its white, bone-like elements. In an interview, van Herpen described the dress as a symbol of freedom and imperfection, celebrating the inherent beauty of these concepts. It is another masterpiece that underscores the profound elegance found in the simplicity (and complexity) of human anatomy.

Beyond their visual appeal, these anatomical references in fashion often convey more profound meanings related to self-expression and freedom. Some argue that incorporating such references is a way to affirm the human body through fashion—embracing its flaws. Perhaps this is what we need. In a time when many feel anxious about their bodies, these designs may serve as a form of reassurance and help us navigate and liberate our sense of self, allowing us to celebrate the human form in all its complexity. 

Lead image credit: Getty Images

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