Dior's vision for the future sees an abundance and richness of culture

For the Dior Cruise 2023 collection, Artistic Director Maria Grazia Chiuri exclaimed her deep appreciation for the centuries of exquisite craftsmanship... The 110-looks-strong collection was showcased at the imposing Plaza de España in Sevilla, Spain, through a dramatic presentation for editors and buyers from across the world. And what a spectacle it was. At this global gathering, one point became abundantly clear: Dior’s vision for the future is delightfully inclusive. While the upcoming resort range pays ode to Andalusian culture, there are references to traditional designs from the Philippines, embroidery techniques from the many ateliers of Seville, and a studied understanding of just how important it is to preserve traditions within a modern context.

The drama of the show was commensurate with the rich inspirations of the collection. The evening began with two flamenco performers, followed by a spectacle of 40 live dancers dressed in a fiery shade of red, and models sashaying down the lengthy path...each carrying the weight of generations of craft and skill on their stylish shoulders.

In conversation with Bazaar India, Maria Grazia Chirui shares her inspiration and vision: “I wanted the défilé audience to feel as if they were in the heart of the world’s flow, surrounded by art and architecture...” she explains. “The Plaza de España was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929—a place, both real and metaphorical, dedicated to the richness of the cultures that have defined this country, an emblem representing all of Spain.” 

For the scenography and set components that welcomed the guests to the Plaza, Maria tells us that she asked Roman artist Pietro Ruffo (with whom she has collaborated with for many projects) to take inspiration from the Feria de Abril—an agricultural fair initiated in 1847—which has become one of the most important festivals in the city.

As for the fashion creations, Maria continues her insistence on incorporating local heritage while also disrupting gender codes. “Among my references in this journey through Andalusia, I cite the imposing figure of [Spanish flamenco dancer] Carmen Amaya, also known as La Capitana,” she tells us. “She knew how to bring us closer to the truth of flamenco by interpreting it without following any dogma... One of the first to dress like men, an artist with extraordinary, revolutionary dance movements, Carmen Amaya is one of the symbolic icons of this collection,” says Maria as she expounds on the play of strength and vulnerability in her muse, and the outfits...a “self-aware femininity”.

The performative being a central theme of the show, Spanish dancer and choreographer Blanca Li was invited to showcase her radical and contemporary vision of flamenco. Accompanied by Spanish composer Alberto Iglesias, the showcase highlighted another important theme—and one that Bazaar India celebrated for its anniversary last year—of connection and collaboration.

“During my travels in Spain, for the elaboration of this Cruise show, I met several craftspeople who, by their virtuosity, perpetuate ancestral skills,” Maria reveals. Artist Javier Menacho Guisado is one such artisan, who does leathercraft. “In the region of Seville, this art is strongly linked to the equestrian tradition, through processes and details inherent to this discipline. It was natural to ask this craftsman to revisit the Dior Saddle Bag, with his particular techniques of embroidery on leather. The result of this collaboration is an extraordinary bag, the iconic shape of which is enhanced by the embroidery that adorns it,” says Maria.

Similarly, for the Dior Bar Jacket and the Lady Dior Bag, Maria collaborated with the artisans of the Jesús Rosado atelier of Seville, who use only gold and silver threads to embroider the fabrics of the garments adorning the Madonnas in religious processions, as well as those worn during ecclesiastical rites. As Maria shares, “I am fascinated by the different techniques that span and connect distant territories, creating a universal language: from Italy to India, from Paris to Seville...”

The hues of this resort line may come as a surprise to some: red, black, and white. “These colours belong to the visual, cultural, and emotional tradition of Spain, as deciphered by Monsieur Dior in his Little Dictionary of Fashion,” Maria explains. These are also the colours of flamenco: “they define a visual chiaroscuro that I wanted to highlight through various materials that react to light in different ways.”

The equestrian references come from the photograph of the Duchess of Alba, a legendary and atypical character, who welcomed Jackie Kennedy during her visit to Spain in 1966. At the Dior Cruise 2023 show, there were hats to complete the looks, made of felt and straw by the Fernández y Roche atelier, punctuated with emblematic Dior details.

Along with it, Manila shawls were created as a special series at the María José Sánchez Espinar atelier where three generations of women work to produce them. “The embroidery technique used in the production was born in China. After the Philippines, the shawl moved to Seville in the 17th century, becoming a fundamental accessory worn by women. I was struck by its recurrent presence in the paintings of [Francisco] Goya and [Diego] Velázquez... This object confirms how craftsmanship is a global language that can link cultures and distant territories,” Maria shares.

Similarly, the lace mantilla formed one of the guiding threads of this collection, and there were delightful hand fans, originally brought to Spain by the first sailors and adventurers from China. For these hand fans, the Abanicos Carbonell atelier lent their exceptional skill of over two hundred years in Valencia.

What is an outfit without jewellery? A series of necklaces, earrings, rings, and bracelets were dedicated to the Granville rose, as a tribute to Monsieur Dior. And to craft them, Maria collaborated with Orfebrería Ramos, who produce and decorate objects for religious ceremonies using traditional metalworking techniques.

However, the Cruise collection wasn’t all only about the past. This season saw three miniature sizes of the House’s iconic bags: micro-versions of the Lady Dior, Saddle, and 30 Montaigne, as well as the emblematic Dior Caro and Lady D-Joy. There was a wide range of shades for them too, from black to red, latte, and a palette of gentle, sunny hues—pale pink or peony, fuchsia, metallic blue, gold, and silver.

The coming Dior Cruise pieces certainly transport you to the Spanish city of Seville, but they also remind you that the cultures of the world lie in every stitch that you’ll wear

Maria Grazia Chiuri's Potrait: © Angela Suarez. Photographer for Savoir-Faire Cruise 23 - Lady Dior: Andrea Cenetiempo

Feature image: All shirts, trousers, skirts, bags, hats, and jewellery, all Dior. Christian Dior photographs © Laura Sciacovelli.