Anita Dongre on weaving a deeper purpose into her brand

The sky in Mumbai is a dystopian grey, and the wind is unusually cold for September. The rains have given way to a three-day red alert in Maharashtra. But all of that swiftly slips my mind when I step into the Dongre atelier in Rabale. Between the suburbs of Airoli, among a lush expansive garden estate, I am welcomed by four-legged friends and iconic wooden elephant sculptures to where all the magic happens. The complex of buildings, with plants skirting every window, looks majestic against the breathtaking views of the hills shrouded in a thick blanket of mist. Anita Dongre greets me with a warm smile. The 61-year-old has shown up to work with the same enthusiasm as I have.

Anita Dongre, a name synonymous with contemporary Indian fashion, has carved a unique niche for herself by seamlessly blending traditional craftsmanship with modern design sensibilities, all while championing sustainability and ethical practices. Her journey, which began in a small Mumbai apartment, has led her to helm a global fashion house, inspiring countless aspiring designers and entrepreneurs along the way. “Rain or shine, I want to come to work every day. I have worked so hard to build all of this. It is the only thing that brings me joy,” the designer tells me.

Dongre’s childhood was deeply rooted in the coruscating culture of Rajasthan’s Jaipur, where she spent her summers with family. The vivid colours, intricate embroidery, and flowing silhouettes left an indelible mark on her design aesthetic. Her mother, who skillfully crafted clothes for Dongre and her siblings, further nurtured her love for fashion and instilled in her a deep appreciation for sincere craftsmanship.This early exposure ignited a passion that would shape her future. As Dongre herself reflects,“My earliest memories of fashion are those of my mother stitching clothes for us. It was from her that I learned the beauty of handcrafted garments.”Every corner of her atelier, true to her word, is dedicated to the craft. Spacious halls, with gigantic windows, are filled with dress forms and sketching tables. Artisans tower over intricate fabrics, from jamdani to ikat, working off of sketches made by the designer herself.Walls lined with iconic pieces from her collections serve as inspiration for what’s to come.

Alongside her creative genius, Dongre has a deep understanding of the production process. “I try not to let that affect my creative vision, but the know-how of how every piece is made helps me sketch more practically,” she tells me while we sit at her desk, crowded with embroidery samples, pattern prints, and a trusty iPad. After completing her education in fashion design at SNDT Women’s University in Mumbai in 1982,Dongre honed her skills with an internship at the erstwhile royal family of Dhrangadhra in Gujarat. This experience provided her with invaluable insights into traditional techniques and the rich heritage of Indian textiles. She then joined Melco Buying Agencies, one of the largest exporters in India at that time, where she gained experience in large-scale production and the intricacies of the garment industry.

In 1995, fuelled by her passion and armed with the knowledge she had gained, Dongre leaped into entrepreneurship. With a couple of sewing machines and an unwavering determination, she launched her label from her apartment in Mumbai. Initially, she focused on creating stylish and comfortable clothing for the modern Indian woman, recognising their evolving roles and needs. Her innate understanding of Indian aesthetics, combined with a keen eye for contemporary trends, quickly garnered attention. This led to the evolution of her brand, now encompassing five distinct labels:AND, offering trendyWestern wear for women; Global Desi, a vibrant, boho-chic line celebrating India’s craft heritage with a youthful spirit;Anita Dongre, the flagship label known for its exquisite bridal couture, prêt-a-porter, and menswear; Grassroot, a sustainable and ethical line crafted from handwoven textiles, organic cotton, and recycled materials; and Pinkcity, a handcrafted jewellery line showcasing exquisite jadau and silver pieces.

Each collection under the Anita Dongre umbrella tells a unique story, often drawing inspiration from India’s diverse traditions and natural beauty.When I ask her what her favourite collection would be, I expect the answer to be Rewild.The Rewild collection,from 2023,served as a powerful statement on conservation and co-existence. Showcased against the historical backdrop of Jaipur’s City Palace,Rewild featured contemporary silhouettes adorned with intricate gota patti work, hand-painted Pichhwai art, and exquisite embroidery crafted by women artisans. Flowing lehengas, elegant gowns, and tailored jackets were brought to life with motifs of flora and fauna, embodying the collection’s message of harmony with nature.“Picking a collection is like choosing your favourite child!” she giggles playfully.“Every piece I have put out into the world has meant so much to me. Even though I hold some closer to my heart than others, I would never be able to tell you my favourite without my heart breaking a little bit.”

Dongre’s bridal collections further showcase her ability to blend tradition and modernity. Inspired by the length and breadth of the country, they feature intricate embroidery techniques like zardozi, aari, and pitta work, rendered in delicate floral patterns on luxurious fabrics like silk and organza. Lehengas, saris, and shararas in a palette of soft pastels and vibrant jewel tones evoke a sense of timeless elegance.“We are working on a special collection inspired by Kashmir that I’m very excited about,” Dongre exclusively reveals. The House of Anita Dongre has come to be known for their one-of-a-kind accessories too—from the classic bucket bags lined with heavy beading to the more minimalist Swan mini grab bag that recently debuted. In one of the rooms at the atelier, a sandalwood almirah with glass doors holds many of these defining pieces carefully. One trip around the estate reveals how every bit of the creative process is repurposed into the decor. “It comes quite naturally to me. It takes a lot for me to throw something away without considering another life for it,” says the designer.The interiors are unassumingly lined with woodblocks from Dongre’s various collections, from statement wall panels to door handles.

 

She actively collaborates with artisan communities across India, empowering them with fair wages and sustainable livelihoods while preserving traditional crafts like bandhani, banarasi, ajrakh, and gota-patti. Her partnership with SEWA (Self-Employed Women’s Association) exemplifies this commitment, providing women with opportunities to showcase their skills and earn a dignified living. Pichhwai, a 400-year-old craft of hand-painting that the House of Anita Dongre contemporarised and revived with their artisans in Rajasthan through lehengas and sherwanis, is one for the books. Dongre also extended the usage of the craft on her vegan bags and even employed the Pichhwai artisans to create panels in her stores. “For me,” Dongre emphasises, “sustainability is not a trend, it’s a way of life. It’s about respecting our planet and ensuring that our artisans have a better future.”

The global impact of Anita Dongre’s creations is undeniable. Her designs have graced international runways and red carpets, earning her accolades and widespread recognition. Influential figures like Kate Middleton and Hillary Clinton, alongside Bollywood starlets, have been spotted in her creations, further solidifying her position as a leading force in Indian fashion. But she is unassuming as ever, still doting to go back home after a day of hard work to a warm Sindhi thali surrounded by family. She never rests.

Global collaborations are always on the cards, and new horizons are always a possibility. In 2024, Dongre made history by collaborating with Barbie to launch a one-of-a-kind doll dressed in a mini version of one of her creations. This collaboration celebrated female entrepreneurship, and mindful representation while highlighting the importance of sustainable fashion.The Barbie, dressed in a choli and lehenga, with dahlias, jasmine and the Indian lotus, quickly became a symbol for contemporary Indian fashion. With golden bangles and earrings, the doll showcased Dongre’s commitment to putting India on the map, inspiring others to pursue their dreams.

As Anita Dongre continues to evolve her brand and expand her global footprint, a new chapter is unfolding with the entry of her son, Yash Dongre, into the business. Having completed his education at Columbia University and gained experience in the fashion industry in NewYork, Yash returned to India to join the House of Anita Dongre as Director and President of Business Operations.“I have grown up witnessing the business bloom,” Yash tells me.“I have been lucky to see my mother build every bit of this world from day one.”He brings with him a fresh perspective, a deep understanding of technology, and a commitment to further strengthening the brand’s digital presence and global reach.“I believe that technology can play a crucial role in making fashion more sustainable and accessible. I’m excited to contribute to the legacy of the House of Anita Dongre and help take it to new heights, on a global scale.”

Dongre’s journey is an inspiration to aspiring designers and entrepreneurs alike. Her ability to seamlessly blend timeless with the contemporary, coupled with her unwavering commitment to sustainability and social responsibility, has made her a true icon in the world of fashion. Her story serves as a powerful reminder that success can be achieved while staying true to one’s values, only if one remembers to prioritise their work ethic and wear their identity on their sleeves. 

All images: Photograpphed by Agnidhra Ray

This piece originally appeared in the October-November print edition of Harper's Bazaar India.

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