What is eyebrow tinting and is it worth hoping on this trend?

Thanks to modern innovation, achieving full, beautiful brows—even if you weren’t genetically blessed with them—is now very attainable: From high-performance brow pencils to brow-growing serums that yield impressive results, there are plenty of options for getting thicker brows in just a few swipes or strokes. However, if you prefer a fix that doesn’t involve using numerous brow products or filling them in on a daily basis, consider giving eyebrow tinting a try. Unlike other popular eyebrow enhancing treatments like microblading and microshading, eyebrow tinting is painless and offers semi-permanent results—with a pretty affordable price tag. To learn more about eyebrow tinting, including what to ask for, how it works, and how to keep it looking fresh—as well as the downsides—we turned to dermatological surgeon Tiffany Libby; brow expert at Hawthorne Studio, Azi Sacks; and CEO and founder of Shobha Salon, Shobha Tummala. Scroll on for everything you need to know.

What Is Eyebrow Tinting?

Eyebrow tinting is the process of applying semi-permanent dye to enhance, shape, darken, and define your brows. Darkening the tiny, fine hairs in and around your eyebrows helps create the illusion of thicker, fuller, and longer brows. “Tinting allows a professional to manipulate the brow area by darkening the fine hair that surround the perimeter of the brow to increase the width,” says Sacks. “It also allows the specialist to darken the fine hair in the inner core of the brow that are in less dense areas. This creates a longer brow line (brow tail) or fuller front and a more ideal shape.”

As for the colour, she further explains that the tint is made of semi-permanent vegetable dye or henna that is mixed to match your existing shade. This can be done at salons or with at-home kits. “It gives the appearance of thicker, more youthful-looking brows,” adds Tummala. “We’re not making brows darker, we’re just matching your natural colour.”

With that said, brow tinting will only accentuate your existing brow hair—it won’t fill in gaps, spots, or sparse areas. So although brow tinting will certainly help beef up the look of your brows, you may still need to fill in target areas with a brow styler like a tinted wax or gel.

 

How Long Does it Take?

An average session, which Sacks says can cost anywhere from $35 to $40 (approx. ₹3,000 to 3,500), takes only about 15 minutes. However, the duration of the service can vary depending on the type of brows you have (coarser brow hair mean the dye will need to sit for longer) and the type of business you visit. For instance, you’ll probably be in and out at a brow bar, whereas a full-service salon or spa may take longer.

Here’s what the process looks like: First, you'll consult with a specialist to discuss how full and natural you want your brows to look. Then, the specialist will prep the area by cleaning the brows and applying a thin layer of petroleum jelly around them to prevent any accidental skin staining. The dye is then mixed and carefully applied, first in the direction of how your brow hairs grow and then, a second layer in the opposite direction. The dye is left on for a few minutes to attain optimal colour, then any excess is removed with a damp paper towel. Don't worry if you see dye on the skin underneath your brows after your treatment: Tummala says that it will wash away after a day or two. Even so, it might be a good idea to schedule your first appointment on a Friday, so you can monitor the results over the weekend.

Who is eyebrow tinting best for?

Eyebrow tinting works on all brow types and brow colours. However, if you’re trying to tint grey or white hair, the process is a little trickier. “Make sure you go to someone who knows how to tint eyebrows well and does it often,” says Tummala. “Grey hair is more resistant and tends to be stubborn, so you might need to adjust the process a bit.”

 

How soon will You See Results?

You’ll want to avoid getting your brows wet for 12 hours after getting the treatment done, and to clean around the area with gel or cream-based cleansers. “Your brows will stand out and look fuller right away,” says Tummala. “You can cut back on the multiple brow products in your beauty routine.” The tint lasts anywhere from three to six weeks. To maintain color, Tummala suggests coming in every four to six weeks for touch-ups. She also says to avoid exfoliating or the use of any oil-based products in that area as it will cause the tint to fade faster.

Libby recommends avoiding any products that might further irritate the thin eyebrow skin, such as retinoids and retinols. She suggests applying a thin layer of Vaseline or Aquaphor to the surrounding skin as a form of protective barrier between the dye and your skin. Sacks likes castor or almond oil to create the same protective barrier on the brow and to help the tint from fading too fast.

How safe is the dye?

The eyebrow tinting dyes aren’t FDA-approved. According to Libby, there is no standard dye formulation and a variety of dyes out there are being used, some of which contain preservatives that aren’t regulated. It is even illegal in California, and, as of 2023, New York, for any licensed professional or salon to carry and administer brow dye to a client. “The major risks with eyebrow tinting are allergic reactions and infections; the skin around the eye is thinner compared to skin on the rest of the body, and more susceptible to allergic reaction and irritation,” she says. “Some permanent eyelash and eyebrow tints/dyes may contain a chemical allergen called para-phenylenediamine (PPD), which can cause severe contact allergy and even blistering reactions.”

Libby recommends doing a patch test to see if you’re allergic to the dye being used before fully committing to a treatment. As with any beauty treatment, always do your homework. Ask around for referrals, and read reviews before booking an appointment.

What are the cons of eyebrow tinting?

Because the dye only lasts about four to six weeks, you’ll want to go in for monthly brow tinting touch-ups if you love the results and want to maintain them. In addition to the time commitment, it means you’ll also be handing over cash every time you go in. Additionally, as we mentioned earlier, with brow tinting you run the risk of a reaction. With eyebrow tinting in particular, the dye that is used is not regulated, meaning it can vary from salon to salon. If you’re trying a new salon, it’s a good idea to call ahead of time to check which brand of dye they use as well as tips for before and after your appointment that can cut down the risk of irritation. Do some internet searching to find out about your states’ regulations then call the salon and ask about your tech’s certification.

Can I tint my brows at home?

The FDA does not recommend DIYing your brow tint, for the same reason that it is illegal in some states: Never dye your eyebrows or eyelashes at home,” says the FDA’s current safety standards. “This can hurt your eyes and cause permanent skin discolouration. You might even go blind.” Do a quick Amazon search and you’ll find that at-home brow tinting kits are available, but you should use them with caution if you choose to go that route. And never use hair dye to tint your eyebrows at home: The formulas of hair dye and eyebrow tint are very different and both should only be used as directed. While eyebrow tints are typically vegetable-based formulas, at-home hair dyes usually contain ammonia and can be extremely dangerous when used around your eyes. Hair dye and eyebrow tint are very different formulas and should not be used interchangeably. Going to a licensed professional who is certified in brow tinting is always the safest option and you’ll likely see better results.

Should you try eyebrow tinting?

Yes, especially if you are looking for a way to accentuate and enhance the look of your eyebrows in an affordable way. Always make sure to do your homework and find a legal salon with a licensed technician that also has experience with eyebrow tinting. Eyebrow tinting can last up to six weeks, so it’s a great way to keep your eyebrows defined without having to put too much work into them in the mornings, and it’s also a great treatment to get before a special event.

In India, you can get this procedure done at The White Door and Brow Masters Microblading and Permanent Makeup Studio and Academy, both in Mumbai, and Look Young Clinic in Delhi. 

This piece originally appeared in Harper's Bazaar US.