What is a silk press? A stylist’s guide to the sleek ’do

For fellow curl enthusiasts who swap between natural looks and straight styles, allegiance to the sleek and polished silk press never falters—no matter the season.

The silk press has been gaining more attention recently, and all signs point to politics as the reason. If beauty lovers have picked up a key beauty tip from Madame Vice President and presidential candidate Kamala Harris, it’s that with the right hair products and tools, achieving a salon-quality blowout at home is easier than ever. In a 2023 podcast interview, Harris told actor and producer Keke Palmer that she reaches for a boar-bristle brush and hardworking blow-dryer to get her signature bouncy hair finish. Check out the interview below.

But even with the right beauty staples and internet tutorials, there’s still a reason many hair experts specialise in the silk press technique and offer the service exclusively in their professional salons. Ahead, learn how the pros create a silk press with four key steps, plus all the essentials you need to re-create the style at home.

What is a silk press?

Not to be confused with a traditional blowout, a silk press uses a specific flat iron technique to elevate your blow-dry to glossier—and yes, silkier—heights. Stylists typically use silk press treatments to thoroughly smooth hair without using excess heat, which helps keep your natural curls intact while providing hair with extra body and movement. “A silk press makes natural hair very straight, shiny, silky, and soft,” hairstylist and colorist Chrissy Zemura tells Bazaar. “The treatment has been around for a very long time, but its name comes from a play on words: pressing the hair with a flat iron to make it silky smooth. It is temporary, and hair will eventually revert to its natural state.”

How can you achieve a silk press?

According to Atlanta-based hairstylist and trichologist Keka Heron, the process behind an effective silk press begins like any other style—with clean and moisturized hair. “I start with an amazing shampoo and hydration conditioning steam treatment,” Heron tells Bazaar. “The steamer helps to soften the hair and make it easier to achieve a soft, long-lasting silk press.”

Zemura concurs that to achieve your bounciest silk press yet, your hair should be as clean and product-free as possible, which might mean breaking out the clarifying shampoo. A cleansing option like Mizani’s Moisture Fusion Gentle Clarifying Shampoo clears away dirt and oil from your hair and scalp without stripping them of moisture.

Once hair is clean, use a deep conditioning mask—preferably with a steam treatment, as Heron suggests—for at least 15 minutes to boost hydration and shine. Experts also recommend sealing the hair cuticle after steaming with a quick rinse under cool water. “This locks in all the good ingredients and allows your hair to lay flatter,” Zemura says.

Make sure to work a leave-in—like Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture and Shine Leave-In Conditioner or Pattern’s Leave-In Conditioner—into your hair for added moisture after towel drying. Next, apply a heat protectant from roots to ends to guard against potential damage from the blow-dryer and flat iron. While Zemura says that refraining from packing on too much product is “the secret to achieving a lightweight silk press,” she notes that using a heat protectant is nonnegotiable, along with a light hydrating mist like Aveda’s Be Curly Advanced Curl Perfecting Primer to “give hair a natural shine and hydration without weighing it down.”

Blow-dry hair thoroughly to remove all moisture after it has been prepped. Any leftover dampness in the hair will reduce the overall sleekness of your silk press and can even damage hair in the long run, as you’ll likely need to do more passes with a flat iron. Using a round brush or a vented boar-bristle paddle brush during the blow-dry step can help get hair as smooth as possible before reaching for a hot tool. “Depending on the curl type you’re working on, you can use various brushes. When working with 4A through 4C hair, I use a paddle brush, but when working with 3C and below, I use a large round brush,” Zemura says.

Next is when the actual “press” of a silk press comes into play. Heron recommends using another light layer of a thermal protectant spray and applying wax around your hairline before straightening hair, to prevent the sweat-prone area from reverting during workouts or in more humid climates. She also suggests parting hair in ¾-inch sections to ensure it receives an even amount of passes with the flat iron to minimize heat effects. Heron recommends additionally smoothing over each section in a single pass using a titanium flat iron, a hot tool she and Zemura say is their preferred iron of choice, as titanium typically distributes heat more evenly than ceramic. After hair is smoothed to your liking, use a nickel-to-quarter-size amount of lightweight oil, like African Pride’s Feel It Formula Strengthening Oil Hair Treatment or Squigs’ Gooseberry Delight Hair Oil, to smooth any flyaways.

What separates an expert-level silk press from a so-so finish is how your hair feels after you’re done flat-ironing. “The hair should have lots of body and movement,” Zemura explains. “A silk press shouldn’t be stiff.”

What is the easiest way to maintain a silk press?

According to professionals, a typical silk press can last between two and three weeks with proper care. However, as with most straightened styles, elements like weather and general lifestyle will affect how long the press holds up. “I suggest protecting hair with a satin or silk bonnet or pillowcase at night,” Heron says. “Use a light hair oil or serum a few days a week, also using flexi rods or set pin curls helps to keep the curls fresh and bouncy.”

More silk press tips

According to experts, your hair should be roughly double the width of your chosen flat iron for a flawless silk press. These dimensions are also important to note for at-home touch-ups after your appointment. “You can lightly press the hair on low heat after a week or so if you think it needs it, using a heat protectant, of course,” Zemura says. She also notes that the silk press is a hairstyle to try once in a while for special occasions or to alternate from a go-to look. “It’s not a biweekly salon appointment—this is where damage can happen,” she warns.

If you’re aiming for a finish that’s so glossy, you can see it from space, professionals suggest being more intentional about caring for your hair ahead of your next salon visit. “Ultimately, healthy hair can achieve that beautiful shine. So one should make sure their hair is healthy and hydrated to get the best out of their silk press,” Zemura says.

Words by Nykia Spradley and Madge Maril 

This article first appeared in harpersbazaar.com in July 2024

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