The need-to-know ingredient hair-loss experts are using now

Hair loss, thinning, and excessive shedding can be common issues as we age. Although there are plenty of in-office and at-home topicals available to target these concerns, they often come with side effects (such as scalp irritation, unwanted hair growth, and texture changes) and don't always produce impressive results. Thankfully, the space continues to evolve. Experts in the hair-loss field are touting PTT-6, an ingredient proprietary to research-driven brand Calecim Professional and used in its Advanced Hair System to help stimulate the natural ability to regrow hair, as the latest science-backed innovation.

Here, industry expert Neil Sadick, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City who was one of the main researchers on a peer-reviewed study on Calecim and PTT-6, answers the top questions about the ingredient.

What Is PTT-6?

Clinical research has shown that this stem-cell-based ingredient supports the optimal function of hair follicles, addresses thinning to improve scalp health, and increases hair volume and density. Its high concentration of exosomes and growth factors are what make it so powerful. "Exosomes are essentially messengers that stimulate cell proliferation, decrease inflammation, and can have an effect on stem cells within the hair follicle," says Dr Sadick. "Although the technology is still in its infancy, we believe that exosomes may offer a higher concentration of active growth factors, leading to better growth of the hair follicle itself." Indeed, Calecim's clinical research found that PTT-6 increases the activity of hair-follicle stem cells by 24 per cent and reduces inflammation by 30 times—both key factors in healthy hair growth.

How is PTT-6 used?

The Calecim Advanced Hair System consists of a PTT-6 serum and a derma-stamp applicator, which creates tiny channels on the scalp to "allow active penetration of the serum, which in turn can increase permeability and delivery of the active ingredient," explains Dr Sadick. After "stamping" your clean scalp, you part your hair into sections and apply the serum directly onto each one.

If you have low-to-moderate hair loss, you can perform the full protocol yourself at home. However, if you're experiencing extreme hair loss, an in-clinic professional can help create a customised regimen, apply the treatment for you, and monitor your results.

How long does it take to see results?

The Advanced Hair System has been consistently shown to give positive results in six to 12 weeks. Other benefits can be experienced earlier, depending on the specific issue. For example, Dr Sadick notes, if excessive shedding is a top concern, a reduction can sometimes be evident around the halfway mark. After the treatment series is complete, Calecim recommends maintaining results with application once per week, however, the frequency can depend on how your hair responds. For a customised maintenance plan, you may wish to speak to your dermatologist or trichologist.

Who can use PTT-6?

According to Dr Sadick, anyone can use this product—both men and women regardless of age or health—for most types of hair loss. "Our study didn't see any evidence of the product causing sensitivities on the scalp or skin," he says. And unlike other common over-the-counter hair-growth topicals that are considered hormone disruptors, PTT-6 is 100 per cent hormone-free—which means, Dr Sadick points out, it can even be used during pregnancy or while breastfeeding.

Feature Image Credits: Calecim Professional / Getty

This article originally appeared in harpersbazaar.com/us in March 2024. 

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