These dermat-approved non-surgical procedures are upstaging traditional facelifts

"Do they begin as young as me?,” I asked my dermatologist at the last consultation. I was inquiring about botox to “correct” my laugh lines that have etched deeper in over three decades. Your 30s is when signs of ageing creep up, and it felt like the right time to enter the world of aesthetic treatments. Procedures like injectables and fillers aid in ageing better so one can delay or avoid a surgical overhaul for a later day. People see merit in this as the industry is trending towards tinier, non-invasive treatments that keep your skin taut and lifted without the cut and sew. “The demand for non-surgical facial rejuvenation procedures increased drastically to 75 per cent to 80 per cent in 2022-23,” says Dr Karishma Kagodu, plastic and cosmetic surgeon, and founder of Dr Karishma’s Aesthetics (Kaesthetics), a cosmetic surgery clinic in Bengaluru. “In a recent survey, 75 per cent of board-certified plastic surgeons practising in Bengaluru stated that they had seen many patients seeking cosmetic procedures, including men and women aged 25 to 65, prefer non-surgical facelifts and skin rejuvenation.” 

While pop culture and celebrities may have popularised botox and fillers, dermatologists are still using an array of procedures to achieve smooth and lifted appearance. “A non-surgical facial rejuvenation targets three main concerns—wrinkles and deep creases, loss of facial volume, skin tone, and texture,” explains Dr Kagodu. “The right treatment option depends on the problem status, anatomical profile, and desired rejuvenation goals.” She advises techniques such as the Morpheus8, Forma by InMode, and CO₂ lasers to improve the tone, texture, and laxity. Morpheus8 and Forma lend a sculpted appearance, while lasers tighten the skin, especially around the neck and jowls. Some preferred treatments by Dr Madhuri Agarwal, the founder and medical director of Yavana Aesthetics, include “Botulinum toxin (Botox), dermal fillers, threadlifts, HIFU (high-intensity focused ultrasound), and microneedling radiofrequency”. HIFU uses ultrasound energy for skin tightening, and microneedling stimulates collagen to improve the texture, firmness, and fine lines. Beside these, microcurrent therapy remains a go-to as well. “It provides a noninvasive facelift effect by enhancing muscle memory and boosting collagen, and elastin production,” explains Dr Kiran Sethi, the medical head of Isya Aesthetics. She also recommends chemical peels to “improve texture, and reduce signs of ageing”. In addition, “PRP (platelet-rich plasma) skin rejuvenation or vampire facelift is advised for patients seeking skin rejuvenation with natural methods,” says Dr Kagodu.

A nip here and a tuck there are preventative procedures to stave off ageing (as if by sorcery). “People are starting these treatments at a younger age to prevent signs of ageing before they become pronounced,” says Dr Sethi. “Early intervention by non-surgical treatments can delay the need for more drastic measures.” Without taking a scalpel to your face, you can hop off your dermat’s chair and head straight to dinner—no downtime, no prolonged healing. “The fast fact about choosing the non-surgical options for facial rejuvenation are the several benefits, including minimal downtime, the fact that it can be performed in less than an hour, and no aftercare,” says Dr Kagodu. While most of these procedures lend temporary results, Dr Agarwal asserts that these can deliver benefits at a deeper level. “They can give proven long-term results,” she says. “For instance, fillers can replenish the volume loss and erase the deeper wrinkle, non-surgical thread lift can reposition the sagging skin like a mini facelift, microneedling radiofrequency can generate new collagen, and prevent future ageing signs.”

The idea is to get these subtle tweaks over the years to retain the look that you are familiar with. “These procedures deliver natural results which enhance appearance without being obvious,” says Dr Agarwal. “The tweaks are more subtle and gradual, which can be less jarring and more acceptable.” But this also means regular upkeep and clocking more hours at the clinic, and adding to the cost. “Individual non-surgical treatments may seem less expensive than a facelift, but the cumulative cost over time can add up,” warns Dr Sethi. “However, many find the cost manageable as it is spread over months or years.” Facelift, on the other hand, has an immediate cost attached to it, reminds Dr Agarwal. “It is a planned surgery that will need all the dos and don’ts of a major surgery, including a prolonged recovery period.” But Dr Kagodu warns us that the recommendation for a specific rejuvenation option is more than cost and recovery—it requires certain parameters to be assessed. “Nothing is a preferred choice in cosmetic treatments—it is about the right candidacy.”
 

Feature Image Credits: Getty Images

This article originally appeared in Harper's Bazaar India, June-July 2024 print issue.

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