The A-to-Z of Haircare: Part One

Wondering how to take care of your mane? Here's the ultimate hair care guide for all hair types to follow immediately.

Part one of this extensive guide sees us cover the letters A-J. Read on!

A is for acid-based exfoliators

"Your scalp is your hair’s support system and it needs similar care to your face," says trichologist Anabel Kingsley. That includes exfoliation "to remove dead skin cells, styling products, and pollution, while encouraging healthy skin-cell turnover." Chemical exfoliants like lactic acid, or salicylic acid – found in Derma Co 1% Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Serum—can gently slough off build-up. Try incorporating exfoliation into your routine once or twice a week. 

B is for braids and bows

We saw an update on one this season at the Chanel haute couture show. The stylist Damien Boissinot plaited hair from the crown to the forehead and then folded the braid back upon itself. Inspired by the belle époque, the tousled texture was finished with a neat bow, making it undeniably feminine. But while we applaud the style of it, braids are also great to protect your hair from friction and prevent breakage, dry ends, and split ends. This practice is especially good for bed. 

C is for cloud hair

"Cloud hair is Afro-textured hair, typically type four, that has been left in its innate kinky, coily, fluffy state, free from manipulation via heated styling tools or styling techniques like braid-outs," says the celebrity hairstylist Dionne Smith. "Although this movement has been freeing, we’re still challenging unwritten rules about what is considered desirable when it comes to textured hair." The best care advice? "The more you leave your hair alone, the better—though wearing protective styles like braids and cornrows from time to time ensures it remains hydrated, as kinks and coils are prone to dryness. Using a product such as the Arata Advanced Curl Care Detangling Spray every few days will keep your curls soft and free from tangles, as will trimming your ends every six to eight weeks.’

D is for derm-led haircare 

Professor Augustinus Bader’s eponymous skincare already has a cult following, and now he’s focusing on our hair. "The  scalp needs the same toolkit of ingredients as the skin in order to support stem cells in the natural repair process," says Bader. We predict that familiar ingredients previously reserved for the face will increasingly bolster your hair routine, such as retinol, which studies show may encourage growth, acid-based exfoliators and hyaluronic acid for hydration. A newly launched haircare brand in India, NaPa, is speaking about this very phenomenon of skinification of haircare and working with ingredients like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid for targeted concerns. 

E is for eco-salons

While there are no hard and fast rules to achieving an "eco" status, salons are adopting green practices, from reusable and recyclable hair towels to upcycled decor and sustainable products. At home, you can also opt for products from brands like from Aveda and Love Beauty and Planet that has kept sustainability at its core. 

F is for flake-free

I am a beauty director, and I have dandruff. It is mild but detectable. I have dark hair so I scrutinise my parting whenever I pass a mirror, and a visit to the hairdresser is always proceeded by a stringent pre-shampoo and a feeling of niggling agitation as the stylist parts my wet hair. Somehow, a "dry" scalp seems less embarrassing to me, but dandruff has been diagnosed, and there is a difference. "Fine powdery flakes are usually caused by a dry scalp, whereas dandruff is characterised by larger flakes and oily roots, and is thought to be caused by the natural flora on our scalps," says the consultant dermatologist and hair specialist Dr Sharon Wong. For such a common issue—affecting half of all adults—dandruff gets very little attention. No friend has ever asked my advice, despite my job. Historically, the narrative has been one of embarrassment and even shame: adverts showing women too self-conscious to wear black, or men supposedly rejected by their lovers. But thankfully the dialogue has evolved—as have the pungent remedies that did little to enhance hair texture or delight the senses." Keratase's Specifique Bain Anti-Pelliculaire Shampoo is especially great if you are looking to target dandruff. 

G is for grey hair

"It’s the biggest trend we’ll see over the next decade, with women revealing their natural silver tones or exaggerating them," says the stylist Zoë Irwin. "However, with no natural pigment, it can become yellow, patchy or dull." Thriveco Anti-Grey Hair Prime Serum helps revitalise natural grey hair, and stimulates repigmentation of grey strands by promoting melanin production in the roots for natural looking hair colour. Of course, as Indians we also have our trusted Bringraj oil for the same. 

H is for halo chignon

Inspired by the Roman setting, the stylist Guido Palau merged two classics at Fendi's couture show: hair was scraped back and high-set like a ballerina bun, but with the dimensions and curves reminiscent of a chignon, forming an elegant, sculptural silhouette. A perfect way to keep the hair away from the face and away from friction. 

I is for injectables

The scalp is a common hot-spot for perspiration, which can lead to embarrassment for some. "Botulinum toxin (Botox) works by blocking the nerve signals responsible for sweating," says the consultant dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite, who recommends targeted use in areas where there is excessive sweating, adding that alongside the obvious upsides of ending nervous perspiring, the treatment allows exercise enthusiasts ‘to preserve their blow-outs for longer.

J is for jewelled accessories

Try metallic or crystal offerings from Jennifer Behr, Retrofête and Shrimps, or beaded slides from Rocha. And who says haircare does not include bedazzling it to it's best! 

This piece originally appeared in the Dec 2021/Jan 2022 print edition of Harper's Bazaar UK.