#SkinSchool: Should teens be using retinol?

Retinol is one of the most, if not the most talked about ingredient in the burgeoning skincare industry today. The most commonly known retinoid—a family of vitamin A-based products used on skin—retinol is revered by experts for its proven ability to aid a wide spectrum of skin concerns (from acne to accelerated ageing), but its reputation isn't only synonymous with praise.

While negative conversations concerning retinol once only revolved around its irritating side-effects, given many formulations of old were more aggressive than today’s, now it courts controversy regarding young people accessing the ingredient in misguided—and dangerous—‘anti-ageing’ attempts. Simultaneously, the European Commission is reviewing regulations for retinol products in a bid to limit the likelihood of overexposure to vitamin A (a potential health danger).

But while it should be a given that retinol is not suitable for children (it is unnecessary, plus poses safety concerns due to their skin being more sensitive and susceptible to irritation and sun damage), lines are blurry when it comes to its use by teenagers, given its beneficial impact on acne—a common issue amongst the age group.

The benefits of retinol use for teenagers

“I would never recommend it for a teen who was concerned about ageing—something that has happened in my clinics previously,” says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at Self London, confirming that that the main benefit of retinoid use in teenagers is primarily for acne management.

“Retinoids reduce acne by promoting cell turnover and preventing clogged pores, thereby reducing breakouts,” Dr Mahto explains. “They also improve skin texture and tone by shedding dead skin cells and stimulating the production of new, healthy cells, resulting in a clearer complexion. Additionally, retinoids have anti-inflammatory properties that reduce the redness and swelling associated with acne, leading to a calmer skin appearance.”

By reducing the severity and frequency of breakouts, retinoids can also minimise the risk of acne scarring, “which can have long-term cosmetic and psychological effects,” she notes. Overall, she believes that the regular use of retinoids can significantly enhance the skin health and self-esteem of teenagers, providing both immediate and long-term benefits. However, it is important to use them under medical supervision.

“When it comes to retinoid use in relation to acne in teenagers, the guidelines recommend starting with retinoids for mild to moderate acne from age 12 upwards,” Dr Mahto informs us, stressing that this is to be under the guidance of a consultant dermatologist. “There are several factors that need to be taken into consideration and a full medical history should be taken before choosing the best course of action. A consultant dermatologist can also monitor the treatment and make adjustments that may be needed.”

The risks of retinol use for teenagers

Such experts can guide users through potential side-effects, which may include “redness, dryness, peeling and itching, particularly at the start of treatment”. Retinoids also increase sun sensitivity, she adds—“so sunscreen use is paramount” when using them. “An initial acne flare-up or 'purging' phase may occur, which usually subsides within weeks. There's also a risk of hyperpigmentation, especially in darker skin tones.”

For female teens, retinoids are contraindicated during pregnancy due to the risk of birth defects, she explains—so contraception will be required alongside their use.

“These risks all emphasise the importance of using retinoids under medical supervision of a consultant dermatologist,” adds Dr Mahto.

Prescription vs shop-bought retinol

Of course, there’s little stopping young people from purchasing retinol and other retinoid-based products in a non-prescription capacity; there are countless options available via popular retailers, from Boots to Beauty Bay. But they might welcome Dr Mahto’s wisdom if tempted: “I advise caution with teenagers using over-the-counter retinoid products without professional guidance. While beneficial in some cases, these products can cause significant skin irritation, redness, peeling, and dryness if misused—especially as teenagers may not know how to apply or dose retinoids correctly.” Another thing to note, she adds, “is that acne might be a symptom of underlying conditions needing different treatments—which a dermatologist can accurately diagnose”. It’s imperative that a correct diagnosis is given to ensure the right course of action for the best management of acne.

Luckily, accessing an expert is easier than ever, and there are a host of innovative services available digitally now. Many clinics—including some of the most in-demand dermatologists in London—now offer digital consultations as standard, while other services, such as Get Harley, have various skin doctors on their books so you can find the perfect practitioner (and prescription products) for you. Find the top-rated ones listed in our guide to the best online dermatology services – also linked below.

Feature Image Credits: Agata Pospieszynska for Harper's Bazaar

This article originally appeared in harpersbazaar.com/uk in June 2024.

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