Skin pigmentation? Here's how to treat it

Patchy skin pigment (a.k.a. hyperpigmentation) is “one of the top three reasons patients come into my office,” says Corey L Hartman, a dermatologist in Birmingham, Alabama. It can also be a challenging condition to treat, says Shereene Idriss, a New York City dermatologist, “because excess melanin is not created equally across the board.”

In some cases, a dark area can be the result of pigment triggering inflammation from an acne breakout or a bug bite. That’s referred to as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). In other instances, UV exposure boosts melanin production, leading to dark spots. Finally, there’s melasma, which typically presents as darker patches on the face. 

This type of unevenness can be caused by UV rays too, as well as by heat or stress—and it’s most common in women experiencing hormonal fluctuations related to pregnancy or birth control. While diligent use of sun protection can help keep dark areas from worsening—and there are in-office options, such as chemical peels, lasers, and light therapy, that successfully fade discoloration—the efficacy of at-home topicals has been somewhat uneven (pun intended). Hydroquinone, a lightening agent clinically proven to diminish hyperpigmentation, presents enough risks (including permanent skin darkening if overused) that it must be used under the supervision of a dermatologist. And over-the-counter (OTC) formulas have achieved mostly so-so results.

Fortunately, that’s changing. Some of the newest OTC products work better—and faster—thanks to a multifaceted approach that utilises a blend of actives. Idriss endorses this strategy. “There is no Holy Grail single ingredient (for hyperpigmentation),” she explains. “It’s how you marry them.” Here, are some of the best multitaskers to combat every type of uneven tone.

For treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation 

If inflammation is a factor in your uneven tone, consider an exfoliating formula with a skin-calming active like niacinamide such as Dermalogica Powerbright Dark Spot Serum (₹7,500 for 30ml), or La Roche-Posay Pure Niacinamide 10 Serum (₹4300 approx. for 30ml).

Cure for sun spots

A blend of skin-resurfacing alpha and beta hydroxy acids is the most effective way to fade hyperpigmentation caused by UV exposure. Try Estee Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair (₹6,000 for 30ml), or Caudalie Vinoperfect Radiance Serum Complexion Correcting (₹5,600 for 30ml).

To fight Melasma

To diminish broad patchiness, look for a formula that has a mix of chemical exfoliators plus an active ingredient that helps block an enzyme that triggers the production of unwanted melanin in the first place. Forest Essentials Rasa Activating Serum (₹3,475 for 30ml) uses licorice to target pigment-boosting enzymes, while The Derma Co 2% Alpha Arbutin Face Serum (₹499 for 30ml) uses arbutin and tartaric acid.

This piece originally appeared in Harper's Bazaar US