Nature-inspired perfumes worth adding to your collection

There is something restorative about the aroma of greenery. We feel deeply soothed by fresh woodland air, the scent of mown grass or a warm greenhouse overrun with flourishing foliage; by crushed aromatic herbs; and the wafts from a cup of mint tea. No wonder fragrance designers have always relied on nature for their inspiration, from evergreen classics such as 1947’s Miss Dior and Sisley Eau de Campagne to more recent botanical blends.

Perfume houses that have their roots in Britain have a particularly strong association with green scents. Jo Malone London’s new Highlands collection was conceived as an ode to the rugged beauty of the Scottish moors; Mallow on the Moor evokes a flutter of delicate petals woven through violet leaves. "I love playing with different aspects of nature and translating them into a fragrance that takes you to a special place," says the British perfumer Lyn Harris, whose latest creation—Perfumer H Wood Land—uses bracing eucalyptus and wet moss to capture the air of a Japanese forest.

For Julie Pluchet, who recently designed a fragrance for the Royal Warrant holder Penhaligon’s, verdant is synonymous with versatile. Since green notes can be found in any olfactive category, she says, "Adding them to a scent can make it much more uplifting and transform it into something that’s fresher and earthier." Strategically placed leafy greens, piney galbanum or herbs such as basil and mint can open up an otherwise-heady floral or accent a bright citrus, while lending a unisex, easy-to-wear appeal. In Pluchet’s powdery-green Highgrove Bouquet for Penhaligon’s, she has used cedar to bring balance to fuzzy mimosas and capture the essence of the silver-leaved lime-trees that grace the gardens of Highgrove House, the private home of the King and Queen.

Today’s outdoorsy fragrances harness the power of ingredients from beyond the meadows, thanks to a new generation of high-performing synthetics such as stemone, which mimics the crisp scent of green stalks. "You can enhance a natural material like basil, modify its longevity or create an abstract concept," explains Pia Long, who co-founded the UK-based perfume-development lab Olfiction and the new fragrance label Eau de Boujee. Its latest creation, Verdant, is a vibrant interpretation of an urban jungle, with generous amounts of misty leaves and an unexpected concrete base note. Elsewhere, those who enjoy an elegant, second-skin scent will gravitate towards L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Iris de Gris, which sees a synthetic-pea accord juxtaposed with notes of cool iris, while olives and nutty pistachio add complexity to the holiday-ready Hermès Un Jardin à Cythère.

The airiness of green-tinged compositions makes them perfect for balmy days, as well as for anyone who feels overwhelmed by richer blends. Whatever your summer plans, these soul-reviving tonics offer a much-needed breath of fresh air.

THE EMERALD EDIT

Comforting

 

 

 

Refreshing

Uplifting

 

 

This article first appeared in Harper's Bazaar UK in June 2023