Is it possible for your skincare to communicate with your brain?

Flushed cheeks after being complimented or goosebumps when walking alone on a secluded street at midnight are signals that our skin shares the same machinery as the brain. Similarly, something as simple as applying a soothing facial oil after a long day can provide relaxation for the skin, which in turn positively influences the brain. Dr Howard Murad, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of his eponymous skincare brand Murad, has always equated skin health with brain health. He believes that caring for one system benefits the entire body because the skin and brain are interconnected. While skincare products are typically designed to improve skin health, a new category is emerging that aims to also nurture brain health.

Enter brain-altering neurocosmetics. While this may seem like just another marketing gimmick, it’s backed by scientific data that promise to revolutionise our perception of skincare and wellness. There is a well-established connection between how we look and how we feel. The negative emotional state of our brain often manifests physically as stress pimples and rashes, while a positive one manifests as radiant, blemish-free skin. Neurocosmetics play into this connection, demonstrating that hormones produced by our brain, such as cortisol and oxytocin, can positively impact skin health. The skin contains numerous nerve endings that react to various ingredients and scents. The application of a calming facial mist on a sultry day or the use of a menthol shampoo after a stressful week—neurocosmetics rely on sensory experiences like these to address targeted concerns. It’s a radical concept, but not an impossible one, say neuroscientists around the globe.

In a 2015 TED Talk called ‘The Hidden Brain’, Dr Claudia Aguirre, PhD, a neuroscientist specialising in the mind-body relationship, spoke extensively about how skin has a mind of its own. “As the largest organ, the skin is also intimately connected to the brain. They share embryonic origins, indicating that they developed from the same tissue.” This connection demonstrates that they handle stress in similar ways. Dr Manasi Shirolikar, consultant dermatologist and founder of Dr Manasi Skin, echoes this sentiment and explains that the skin contains numerous sensory neurons that facilitate communication with the brain. “The skin-brain axis is the bi-directional communication between the skin and the brain. Think of your skin speaking to your nervous system,” she tells us. Thus, whenever we experience stress—our skin immediately begins to rebel.

Recognising the link between skin and brain health is plausible, but the idea of certain skincare ingredients impacting neural health might seem surprising. Jui Paturkar, cosmetic chemist and founder of June Cosmetic Solutions, explains that topical skincare products can certainly have a positive neural impact, if formulated to do so. “Certain ingredients have shown the ability to communicate with the nervous system and positively influence it to destress,” she says. The topical application of neurocosmetics claims to trigger an immediate response in the nervous system, promoting sensations of relaxation that calm the mind. After all, the skin is a living and breathing organ. Sisley Paris spent over a decade conducting research for their neurocosmetic arm, NEUR|AÉ. They believed it was possible to use neuromodulating ingredients to affect both skin and emotions at the same time. The researchers behind NEUR|AÉ conducted several tests on botanical skincare ingredients to determine which ones can activate the skin’s neurotransmitters. Meanwhile, Justhuman, an Indian neurocosmetic skincare brand, claims to address skincare issues by stimulating neuropeptides. These are chemical messengers that neurons use to communicate with each other. Neuropeptides interact with skin cells and influence them to boost collagen and elastin production, aiding in skin repair and helping to reduce the first signs of ageing.

In skincare, they exist in the form of copper peptides—a well-known ingredient. “We prefer using neuropeptides over other ingredients since they are already produced by the body and bind to receptors that regulate cell renewal and inflammation,” says Roshini Sanah Jaiswal, CEO and founder of Justhuman. India’s only neurocosmetic brand was born out of Sanah Jaiswal’s own autoimmune condition, Lichen Planopilaris, which left her with dermatitis and hair loss. Their newest launch, the MicroshotsTM Age Defying Peptide6 Cream, harnesses patented technology from Korea that achieves up to 60 times deeper penetration through the keratinous and lipid layers, delivering potent peptides directly to the dermis. Apart from using neuropeptides, Justhuman also includes effective ingredients such as ceramides and squalane, which support their claims of a strengthened barrier and improved texture.

However, research into topical skincare products impacting neural health is still in its early stages for beauty consumers to adopt these products immediately. Additionally, this research is conducted solely on animal and cell cultures, so it doesn’t always translate to human efficacy. Dr Aguirre asserts that even though neurocosmetics take a holistic approach to skincare, science still needs to uncover more about the potential impact of the nervous system on our skin. Meanwhile, the emergence of neurocosmetics is a lesson on the importance of brain health in a world that often prioritises physical health over mental well-being.

This piece originally appeared in the October-November print edition of Harper's Bazaar India

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