How many steps should you have in your skincare routine? Experts weigh in

Every few days a new skincare trend goes viral and with that comes a plethora of products that can be incorporated into your routine. Be it crystal gua shas, under-eye patches, or LED face masks, 2024 has been all about beauty tools and formulations. Content creators on Instagram, TikTok and YouTube are slathering their faces with everything from snail mucin to mayonnaise (questionable choices). A few years ago, a 10-step routine that Korean women followed was all the rage. Now, it seems everyone uses seven to eight steps in their nighttime routine because anything less than that would mean you're not doing enough. But do more products, steps and treatments really mean better skin or does it simply mean more empty bottles? We spoke to the experts to find out.

The effects of using multiple products for skincare

Our skin has natural sebum which serves as a protective barrier, and using several beauty products or formulas containing harsh ingredients can damage this layer. “Using too many products can cause your skin to become irritated, red, inflamed and itchy,” says Dr Shaurya Thakran, co-founder of Rakshaa Aesthetics. If they contain comedogenic substances, they can also clog pores resulting in breakouts, blackheads, and whiteheads. This means your skincare routine needs to be more nuanced, focussing on quality over quantity.

Dermatologists especially warn against using the wrong combinations. It's best to layer formulations only after careful consideration, or you can end up with damaged skin. For instance, we know that hyaluronic acid and ceramides team up well to ensure your skin is hydrated. Similarly, layering niacinamide and salicylic acid can be effective against acne. Dr Neha Khuraana, founder of House of Aesthetics points out, “One example of this ingredient incompatibility is mixing vitamin C and retinol or using benzoyl peroxide with alpha hydroxy acids (AHA).” These can dry out your skin and cause irritation.   

A warning against ‘viral’ products

Adding the latest ‘viral’ product to your cart is tempting, but frequently changing your go-to skincare products can backfire. “The skin needs time to adapt to new ingredients, and frequent changes can disrupt the skin's natural barrier,” says Dr Thakran. Changing the brands of the cleanser, toner or moisturiser we use daily can often lead to skin irritation. This can also make it difficult to identify which products are solving your skin issues, or exacerbating them. It is possible that some of the active ingredients in the new products can cause allergic reactions.

So what is the ideal skincare routine? It should address your skin’s concerns but gently. The first step is a cleanser, it removes oil, dust and pollutants from our face. Dr Khuraana recommends using a gel-based product if you have oily skin or a hydrating one if your skin is dry. Use a topical ointment based on the skin concerns you want to tackle—acne, dark circles, hyperpigmentation, or enlarged pores. After this, use a creamy but lightweight moisturiser, sealing it all in. During the day, you should also add sunscreen to it. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen that offers SPF 30 or above. Dr Thakran concludes an ideal skincare routine would only consist of three to five steps. 

So while lengthy, laborious skincare routines are packaged as indulgent ‘self-care’ online, using too many products can lead to clogged pores and breakouts. The most effective skincare routine is a simple, sustainable one without many changes and a few realistic steps that you can follow at home but also while travelling, sick, tired or busy, using the same set of products.

All images: Pexels

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